Spend hours in the shop and got nothing done! Please Help!

All things Altima Coupe.
devilmagic
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Car: 2009 Nissan Altima Coupe 2.5

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After installing the Stillen Header on my Altima Coupe 2.5L. My mechanic and I got stuck on the part where you suppose to extend the O2 sensor wire to the cars 3rd sensor by the downpipe (middle of the car) with the downpipe "adapter" that came with the Stillen header. here is the pictures i took and lets see how many of you sees the "problem" we ran into. :crazy:

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Pic of where the "Adapter" Should go
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Down pipe, On right shows the OEM "Secondary" O2 Sensor wiring
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Proper Installed Header with "First" O2 Sensor shown

Let me know if you guys encounter this before. Thanks!
Last edited by devilmagic on Thu Oct 07, 2010 3:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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dldjros69
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Yup the install went great up until that point. Then we said FFFF it. I had the bully dog tuner and was able to erase error codes.

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2008AltiCoupeDan
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^^^^^^^^ exactly what i did.

but yeah- u need to get all up in there and elongate the wires, then stick em sumwhere. not worth it imho- just put the header in and live w/ the light or get the tuner lol

devilmagic
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Car: 2009 Nissan Altima Coupe 2.5

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sooo.. im not the only one with the missing 3rd o2 sensor and have no where to extend the 2nd sensor to? i hate that check engine light lol

devilmagic
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Car: 2009 Nissan Altima Coupe 2.5

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dldjros69 wrote:Yup the install went great up until that point. Then we said FFFF it. I had the bully dog tuner and was able to erase error codes.
i believe if you erase it with a tuner, the error code will still come up after say 20-50 miles.

QR25DE
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Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2009 2:50 pm
Car: 2009 Altima Coupe 2.5L 6MT Turbo

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What?

Image

Looks simple to me, there is no 3rd sensor...

You put in the adaptor and extend the secondary o2 wires so the 2nd o2 sensor goes in the adaptor piece and the primary o2 is in the header section...

A mechanic is installing this and cannot figure that out? Wow.. lol

It's not hard to solder the wires and extend them. Put in the adaptor by cuttin and clamping. :)

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dldjros69
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devilmagic wrote:
dldjros69 wrote:Yup the install went great up until that point. Then we said FFFF it. I had the bully dog tuner and was able to erase error codes.
i believe if you erase it with a tuner, the error code will still come up after say 20-50 miles.
Correct the tuner will only erase it. But i got quick at erasing the code. If you got a full tune from uprev then it can be deleted.

Scott i agree a mechanic should have been able to figure it out but to this day i still have no idea what the hell those clamps were for. Cutting and what not wtf. i say its better with out that nonsense

Tony2676
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hey so can u tell a big difference with the header one?.... also if u don't connect that sensor... will nissan void your warranty?....

devilmagic
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QR25DE wrote:What?

Image

Looks simple to me, there is no 3rd sensor...

You put in the adaptor and extend the secondary o2 wires so the 2nd o2 sensor goes in the adaptor piece and the primary o2 is in the header section...

A mechanic is installing this and cannot figure that out? Wow.. lol

It's not hard to solder the wires and extend them. Put in the adaptor by cuttin and clamping. :)
Oh so you saying that the adapter goes before the Secondary O2 Sensor (Located right after the Header)? Not on the Third sensor (which located in middle of the car)? according to the Stillen installation instruction, it clearly tell us (with picture illustration) to extend the wire from secondary to the Third. But as you can see from the picture. we do not have a 3rd sensor. If you have successfully installed the header without the problem of check engine light. would you please explain it in further detail? Thank you so much.

P.S the Mechanic whos installing this was trying to follow the instruction provided to him. I'm sure if i tell you him to it otherwise, he would. :dblthumb:

QR25DE
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What the hell? Wait, are you installing a wideband or no? Because I think the extra "3rd" sensor hole is for a wideband.

It doesn't say extend it from the secondary to the third. It says extend the wires on the secondary sensor so they reach the o2 bung that is further away... then you put your wideband in the other bung. Use the bung plug to plug the factory o2 sensor hole if you don't have a wideband.

I might be mistaken but california coupes might have 2 sensors because of the retarded emissions, but my work around would work... let me know if it doesn't... I don't see why it's like this though unless you have a third sensor to put in there, the third sensor in the pic looks like a AEM Wideband O2 sensor (the connector is the same is mine with the same insulation around the wires (the black part).

I think there is confusion... here is the latest instructions: Call stillen to confirm.

http://www.stillen.com/product_files/503269~inst.pdf

devilmagic
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Here is the Picture illustration Stillen have on their instruction sheet.

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Image
The process gets confusing because the Car Stillen worked on got all 3 sensors. correct me if I'm wrong according to the picture.

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mmx23z
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i always thought it was as simple as taking out the 2nd o2 & putting it in the adapter next to the original 3rd 02 & use the bunge to close the original 2nd 02 hole???

again +1 for me ended up using the bd tuner to erase it... i have to erase it every 200 miles... found out from drivin to visit my girl... (every trip my sel light would turn back on)

also your car is not faster if your sel is on, ur cars in limp mode i proved it cuz i tracked my car after i got it with the cel on & ran exactly the same time i ran stock... even hit a lil worse a couple times not cool

devilmagic
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is that why my mpg is mid 25s on for city ? hmm perhaps i need to start erase the sel.. but if i can i want to fix the check engine light.. if anyone have theirs fix and modified , Please pm me or post it on here. a write up with pics will be greatly appreciated! :)

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mmx23z
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if u wanna erase it for a short while just disconnect the negative battery cable & itll reset the code but only for like 25 miles or something like that... (did that too b4 i got the bd tuner)

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dldjros69
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Get the bd tuner just cuz its the shiit and works well. Or you could man up and get a true tune from uprev. Sorry to inform you but there is no limp mode in our cars. The ses light is just annoying. the car still performs the same. Id say u r getting poor gas milage because you are driving like a mad man since you got all these mods.

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mmx23z
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dldjros69 wrote:Sorry to inform you but there is no limp mode in our cars. The ses light is just annoying. the car still performs the same. Id say u r getting poor gas milage because you are driving like a mad man since you got all these mods.
how do yo explain running exact same 1/4 mile time with intake header exhaust compared to stock?

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dldjros69
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Lots of factors can come into place. Humidity, reaction, temperature, temperature in engine bay, oil temperature, tire wear and much more. Seriously though limp mode isnt gonna rob you 10-20 horse power. Its more likely gonna take 100hp away and not let you rev over 3000 rpms.

mrodrig2
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mmx23z wrote:
dldjros69 wrote:Sorry to inform you but there is no limp mode in our cars. The ses light is just annoying. the car still performs the same. Id say u r getting poor gas milage because you are driving like a mad man since you got all these mods.
how do yo explain running exact same 1/4 mile time with intake header exhaust compared to stock?
If you were really in limp mode you would probably be taking at least twice as long to finish the quarter and driving around normally would be horrible. Even still, I/H/E does not give you that much power; definitely not enough to conquer the variances in 1/4 mi time due to driver.

devilmagic
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dldjros69 wrote:Get the bd tuner just cuz its the shiit and works well. Or you could man up and get a true tune from uprev. Sorry to inform you but there is no limp mode in our cars. The ses light is just annoying. the car still performs the same. Id say u r getting poor gas milage because you are driving like a mad man since you got all these mods.
hey now i tried to drive at constant speed, accelerate slowly .. i went from 24 mpg to 27 mpg last week. see big improvement! :rotfl.

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mmx23z
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dldjros69 wrote:Lots of factors can come into place. Humidity, reaction, temperature, temperature in engine bay, oil temperature, tire wear and much more. Seriously though limp mode isnt gonna rob you 10-20 horse power. Its more likely gonna take 100hp away and not let you rev over 3000 rpms.
ur right... maybe it wasn't limp mode but as soon as i erased the cel i felt a difference & could launch a lot harder without boggling

mrodrig2 wrote:Even still, I/H/E does not give you that much power; definitely not enough to conquer the variances in 1/4 mi time due to driver.
its not like im not looking to knock off whole seconds, but i was expecting to take off a couple tenths


devilmagic: if u already haven't fixed Ur cel try hard launching & a Lil aggressive driving b4 & then disconnect the negative on ur battery for a few seconds to erase the code & try launching & driving then & see if you can notice a difference as well...

it could be maybe i had a weird incidence with my coupe, but im curious if devilmagic has the same result or it really was just me

b88dragon
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yea, i had my headers installed awhile back as well, and didnt connect the adaptor piece in yet, but will be this wkend hopefully. drove it for a good 700miles before the cel came on.

been driving with it on for the longest time and its finally annoying me. so hopefully it will go away this weekend, and i'll buy the bd tuner as well when i got the dough.

devilmagic
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here is the latest update on what i did to the Header .
I went ahead and installed the Elbow piece last week. and then swap the Elbow with the Spacer show in pictures.

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The Elbow connector for your O2 sensor

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The "Spacer" connector for your O2 sensor

* Okay so here is what happened. i stalled the Elbow last week and after 100 or so miles i ran into a Error code for "O2 Sensor running too rich (Os sensor not receiving the read accurately, meaning too far)" .. So today i go ahead and replace the Elbow with the Spacer.. after Test drive the car on highway (cruise control 65 mph) for about half hour and so far now check engine light (yet :ohno: ).. but I will definitely let you guys know if this Spacer solve the stillen Header ECL issue. :dblthumb:

devilmagic
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Update: CEL came back on again. Code: P0133, )2 Sensor circuit slow response. :wtf2:

devilmagic
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Swap the Spacer from first O2 sensor to the secondary. *Finger crossed* :ohno:

devilmagic
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two days worth of driving , and around 100-150 miles later. no CEL .. nice :) i guess this problem is solved? *knock on wood, lets hope it never come back!* :dblthumb:

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PHENOMenalVinyl
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keep this updated and if this worked tell stillen maybe they can add this into the headers overall

devilmagic
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day 3 . still no CEL

devilmagic
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Hey, Just a follow up for people who wants to fix their CEL with stillen header. after almost 2 weeks of driving with the spacer on the secondary sensor. no CEL anywhere

devilmagic
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to the person who send me a PM about your stillen header. i cant reply back to you with your PM turned OFF lol so here is my reply to you.
"I did not bother with the adapter Stillen send me with. The thing that worked for me and i believe will work for everyone else is to install a "spacer" on the secondary o2 sensor (not the sensor on the header itself, that will be your 1st sensor) the sensor that is located right after the header by the down pipe. you can find spacers on ebay http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid ... Categories . good luck"

b88dragon
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lol, that person would be me ahhaha, havent been on my account lately so didnt know it was off my bad. but ohs ok, thanks for the advice, gonna try that out whenever i get the chance, but thing is my sensor bolt is stripped(dont know if what i said is correct)....so dont know how else i can take it off...any ideas? haha. also does it matter what type of o2 spacer i get or are they generally all the same? thanks again for the help btw.


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