PapaSmurf2k3 wrote: ↑Mon Oct 25, 2021 10:10 pm
I've got a wonky speedo right now too. It likes to peg itself out sometimes. Other times it doesn't read at all, and other times it reads 1/4 to 1/2 speed

If it's your 240SX, then same advice. I've probably fixed dozens of '80's~'90's clusters for various customers and there are 3 things that go wrong, broken solder joints, corroded copper traces on the mainboard, or broken traces on the flex-board for clusters that use them. Aside from blown and leaking capacitors (which are usually obvious), I've rarely seen actual chip or hardware failures. First thing to try is "freshening" all the solder joints by re-melting them with a dab of new rosin-core solder. If that doesn't work then take an ohmmeter to the traces, solder on jumper wires to reconnect any broken ones.
Cap failures are most common on vacuum fluorescent (VFD) cluster displays, but if you do notice any leaky caps, those are easily replaced. Just read the value and voltage off the side of the old cap and locate a replacement at Mouser or Digi-Key. With values below 10 microfarad (uF), with some fancy soldering you can often replace them with a ceramic surface-mount part that won't ever leak again.
One last thing that happens occasionally (especially to flex-boards) is diode failure, since many of them have diodes soldered right to the flex copper. When the solder connections go bad, the bouncing can cause the diode to fail too. They're simple to test, put your ohmmeter on "diode check" and put red/black on each side of the diode in turn. You should get infinity in one direction, non-infinity in the other. If you get infinity both ways then the diode is failed open, if you get a reading both ways then it's melted short. Plain old 1N4001's from eBay will fix them right up.