Speakers Question.

[daniel88c]

Hi! I just have a couple of speaker questions =P. I drive a 1992 240SX Fastback and I know that the front speakers are 4" and the rear are 4x6". Well my questions are:

1). Is it possible to put 6x1/2" speakers in the back? If yes, what do I need to do?2). Do I have to 're-wire' the car? I've read somewhere that people say it's better.

And here are just questions about speakers (in general) that I had question about:3). What is difference between 2-way, 3-way and 4-way?4). I have Clarion DB355MP head unit (it says it is 204 watt [51 watt X 4 channel]) and I had Sony Xplod speakers (120 watt peak and 20 watt RMS [continous or whatever]), the thing is that the Sony's started to crack, my head unit volume can go up to 32, and I can barely make it go up to 27 before you can hear the cracking. So, what better speakers do you advise I get, that won't start cracking and I can continously 'bump' it loud?

Thanks in advance!Daniel

[Toshima]

WElCOME TO NICOYou really have 4x6 in the front and back. You can put 6 1/2 in the front but I dont know about in the back. I dont understand what you mean by rewirieing the car. please explain better.

[180fan]

Yes, you can fit 6.5's in the back. There's the plastic trim piece that covers the metal bracket that the speaker sits in. You need to pull the metal bracket that the speaker sits in out. Cut the hole from a square to a U, where the U is the side that is closest to the center of the hatch.

You can pull new wire through the car, but you should do that once you get an amp.

the multielement speakers are able to split the sound up they're better able to reproduce to the different drivers. Tweeters can reproduce highs, not lows, subs the inverse. So you can get an idea of what multielement speakers can do.

Get an amp, reduce the volume, get better speakers. Sony is good for TV's and a few other things, but car audio is not their forte. Speakers, check out MB, Diamond, Lotus if budget permits, otherwise check out some eclipse, infinity kappas, or polk db's.

[daniel88c]

Hi. The thing was I just wanted to get speakers, I didn't want subs. Is there an amp for speakers only? But then if my head unit says 204 watt max does it mean it can give off that much power?

Oh yeah and pulling new wire, where can I go get that at?

Thanks,Daniel

[Toshima]

You dont need a amp of door speakers and rears, but your deck should be just fine. You can get a 4 channel amp and hook it up to your door speakers and back ones. But I think you should just stay with the deck you have, plus 6.5 up front and 4x6 in the back, and ill bet you will be happy. When a deck says 204 watts max thats just that MAX. But you will just be fine with that.

[daniel88c]

Hi. Well I was planning to only get rear speakers. =P. Do you think the Clarion SRR1686 speakers are good enough? Oh yeah I checked on websites and they say I need to buy a special adaptor to fit the 6X1/2"s. Is that necessary? I ask because 180fan said cut a hole and I'm not really that great at cutting stuff. =P.

Thanks,Daniel

[Toshima]

Tell you the truth about audio everyone has a different look on speakers. Some say get these otheres say dont its all up to you. They should sound great though for just having something to listen to. As for the back just get 4x6 and get 6 1/2 up front. I wouldnt bother to try and cut the back holes bigger if you dont want to cut anything. I make the spacer you need to mount the 6 1/2 up front just email me if you want to get a set.

[daniel88c]

Hi. The thing is that I'm so used to just having sound in the back. And it does sound okay since I don't really like having it right next to me. So your saying I do have to cut something? How about those 'adapters' that they sell online and stuff? Do they work?

Thanks,Daniel

[180fan]

For the doors, there is plenty of documentation on how to make that bracket for a couple bucks worth of parts at your home depot.

The back won't take well to adapters. If you try to use an adapter, if it's mounting through the top, 6.5's will hit the plastic trim above it making it look like crap. If it mounts under, you'd need to make some duct like adapter which will reduce the 6.5 to 4x6. Pull the metal bracket and with a hacksaw make the cut.

[daniel88c]

Hi. Oh I see damn that all seems like a hard thing =P. Okay, is there a link to do it for the doors?

And for the back on top you said 'cut the hole from a square to a U, where the U is the side that is closest to the center of the hatch' <- could you expand on that?

I'm figured if I have to cut something for both, I might as well try to do them get off my lazy butt. =P.

Thanks,Daniel

[180fan]

I've enclosed a small picture to try to illustrate the cut. Not exactly the best but looking at it and looking at the metal bracket, you should get the picture.

The other speaker bracket for the doors, take the plastic bracket that's in the door already and draw that out on a piece of MDF (fiberboard found at home depot pretty cheaply) and in the center, mark for 6.5" speaker. Then start cutting out the new bracket and make two of them from the same template.

[daniel88c]

Hi! Ohhh I get it now. Haha. Cool thanks guys! I might go try this now. Hopefully I get everything right =P.

Thanks,Daniel

[slipnfall]

If you want good quality sound, focus on the front speakers the most. If you can afford it, go components/seperates... then just get a set of coaxials(ie 2-way or 3-way) for the rears to fill in the space. If you do get components for the front, you will want to get an amplifier to get the most out of the speakers.

Just remember that a round speaker will always reproduce sound more accurately than an oval speaker(ie 4x6"). If you want to make the front adaptors for a 6.5" speaker, here's a template:

http://jamie.hackthebox.org/fi...e.pdf

You'll need Adobe Acrobat to view/print it(just make sure to turn OFF scaling when printing: it will fit on an 8.5x11" sheet of paper, use the ruler to verify). Anyways, when people say re-wiring, they are likely talking about the wire going to the speakers themselves. This is relatively easy for the rear speakers, but trying to run wires through a door jamp harness is a huge pain... not worth it in my opinion for non-competition systems.

All-in-all, if you are on a budget, simply a new set of factory-sized speakers will sound a *heck* of a lot better than the originals. It's all in what you want to spend.

To give you an idea, a decent set of front 4x6" coaxials shouldn't run you more than $50-60. A set of decent coaxials will run around $150+, plus the cost of an amp+wiring.

HTH, and it wasn't too much to digest at once!

[daniel88c]

Hi. But then would factory speakers be enough? I don't want them to be like the speakers I have now and blow.

Thanks,Daniel

[180fan]

I had a set of 4x6 infinity kappa plates before I installed 6.5's all the way around. The sound difference at the highs isn't all that different but you do get a cleaner midrange. Slipnfall is right on the money with putting more attention at the doors than the back, getting components will rock but a bit pricey if you get the ones that are worth getting. A cheapo set of components won't match up to the sound quality of a good set of coax or plates.

[daniel88c]

Hi. Wait what do you mean you installed 6.5 all around? You have it in the front and the back too?

Daniel

[180fan]

Yes. I originally had 4x6 plates all the way around. Went to 6.5 and cut out a new bracket for my doors out of plexiglass about 4 years ago, changed the material to MDF about 2 years ago. It then occured to me that I could pop in 6.5s in the back it would just take some colorful cutting. Did that a year and a half ago. So yes, in my hatch I'm using 6.5s all the way around.

[daniel88c]

Hi. Oh by doing that does your speaker rattle or move around?

Thanks,Daniel

[180fan]

Nope. You'll need some self tapping screws or drill holes to make sure that the speaker's seated tightly.

[daniel88c]

Hi. Hms, so I cut uhm... half of the hole. Wire and put the speaker in, then where would I drill holes to? Do I have to drill holes, can I use zip ties or something to hold them down?

Thanks,Daniel

[180fan]

put the screw holes in the metal wherever they line up to on your speakers.

[daniel88c]

Hi. Oh I see then for the screws do they have to be any specific size?

Thanks,Daniel

[180fan]

as long as they can hold down the speaker they're fine.

[daniel88c]

Hi! Okay so to recap, I don't want to do anything wrong. First, I cut the red line from the picture above. Then I just screw it in with screws that hold it down. And that is bascially it right?

Thanks,Daniel

[Crunkrich]

orrrrrrr you could do this



i know my cars dirty and the speaker board doesnt look too great cause its also dirty lol but its killer when its clean

[Florida240sx]

Or this.........New pioneer 4x6's in stock location. 2 kicker 6x9 3ways on top of the 15" L7

[daniel88c]

Hi, oh wow you cut a hole in the board in the back. Haha. I wanted it 'hidden' in where the stock ones are supposed to be.

Thanks,Daniel

[180fan]

yep, go with my way if you want to keep the speakers hidden. I wanted them away from prying eyes as well, thus the cutting and screws in weird places.

[Crunkrich]

Florida240.... you dont have any trunk room tho! lol i bet that hits hard as hell

actually the board i have back there is plywood covered in imitation leather... the stock board was too flimsy to take care of those beastly *cough*sh!tty*cough* sony 6x9's

but yeah to each his own thats jus what i like

[Crunkrich]

oh and if you go with cuttin new holes for the 6.5's make sure when u install the speaker you dont bend or warp the speaker to fit by drilling one side in too far... they get messed up and sound all funny. i did that but fixed it right away with no damage thank god