Speaker questions and/or anyone add Rockford Fosgate?

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Offshore1
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I am in a quandary on my speakers. I plan to keep stock head unit and upgrade all 4 door speakers.That said - last weekend I installed Pioneer's best 6.5" co-ax; TSD1602R. They had ok highs but terrible bass (like almost zero) and had low volume. Thus I assumed it was because stock speakers are 2 ohm and quite efficient. SO - I got a pair of Infinity Kappa 63.7I that are 2ohm AND very efficient (95DB) and installed them. I got most of volume back and lots of clarity and detail but the bass just sucked sucked. So back in went the stock speakers.

Being in the audio business for well over 25 years, this is the 1st time I have had problems w/ good speakers not working well w/ a stock head unit. I assume the stock HU is equalized for the stock speakers.

What I wonder, has anyone replaced the stock speakers and put in the optional Rockford Fosgate door speakers that are part of the audio pkg? If so - good results?

I am looking to clean up the sound - more highs. I am not going to add an amp or sub.

If anyone has the Rockford Speakers and want to sell OR trade, I am your guy.

BTW: My Versa is a 2008 SL.



kcourtad
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only way to get good bass out of them is to upgrade the stock amp in ur car... i have MTX Audio`s in my door and when my amp overheats i still get good bass out of my MTX`s from the stock amp that came with the car... but why in the world would u take out the rockford rosgate set up that nissan put in there ???

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Offshore1
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I don't have the RF system. I may upgrade to the RF speakers (minus RF sub) though.

Urq
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So is there a reason you want to use Rockford?I mean there are much better speakers on the market!

Ever Victorious
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Offshore1 wrote:I don't have the RF system. I may upgrade to the RF speakers (minus RF sub) though.
Just for clarification, in the Audio Package to which you refer, ONLY the sub is Rockford Fosgate. The other 6 are a different brand... Clarion IIRC. But you should know what they are, having removed them from your car already. The speakers are also the same as the stock speakers on a base SL, like yours.

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Offshore1
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Lets try again. I have a Versa Sl WITH OUT the audio pakage.Aftermarket speakers don't cut it.

Was wondering if the speaker that come w/ audio package sound much better?Anyone have audio package door speakers they want to sell or trade?

Does this post help clarify the above post?

joes13
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If you have been in the audio business for 25 years, then why wouldn't you know that 99% of the time you upgrade speakers, and not the amp/headunit, the speakers sound like crap? I have been in and out of the business for about 8 years, and that is a rookie problem. Not trying to be a d!ck, but a very basic problem. The speakers you spoke of have an RMS rating of 60w, but the stock headunit, at its ultimate best might put out 30w rms. That equates to horrible sound out of aftermarket speakers.

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VersaMG08
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I had my aftermarket speakers, amp and sub in my car for about a month and they sound good. They are running fine on my stock HU.

Ever Victorious
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Offshore1 wrote:Lets try again. I have a Versa Sl WITH OUT the audio pakage.Aftermarket speakers don't cut it.

Was wondering if the speaker that come w/ audio package sound much better?Anyone have audio package door speakers they want to sell or trade?

Does this post help clarify the above post?
I hope it clarifies it for you, because I already understood that the first time through.

And apparently you didn't understand what I was trying to tell you.

The speakers that are in the SL WITHOUT the audio package are the EXACT same speakers as the SL WITH the audio package. The ONLY difference between the two packages is that the Audio Packages has an amp to drive the added RF sub.

Nissan does NOT change the other 6 speakers for the audio package.

Ergo, you already have the same speakers that would be found in that package. They're probably sitting in your garage right now.

Clear now?

Kolk1
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I would get ahold a couple sheets of dynamat and soak the door panel around the speakers and make sure that they are seated properly. This will improve midbass response a great deal. Only other option, is adding a small 4 channel.

Ive ran Alpine Type Rs in all 4 doors, with no sub, and with dynamated doors, and I had a pretty good amount of bass, but I was also running a 4 channel.

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VersaMG08
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I've noticed that too. With the aftermarket Kenwood speakers installed in the doors, they were lacking some bass compared to the stocks. The mids and highs were better quality though.

I don't have dynamat installed in the door panels. I think they are a waste of money and unnecessary unless you are competing in a sound comp.

After I got my mono amp and sub installed, I noticed that I don't need the dynamat around the speakers. The bass from the sub by itself satisfies me enough.

Kolk1
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Yes, if your doing a sub, you probably wont notice unless your a true audio geek. But if your not doing a sub, definitely dynamat the doors. If you cant hear the difference, and think its a waste of money, just leave the stock stereo in the car and give up.

I also love the fact how much Quieter my daily commute is, compared to my buddies Versa.

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hiimjered
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I'm about to dynamat my doors, and have a quick question. Did you apply dynamat to just the interior surface, or did you piece it onto the outer door surface as well?

I've seen both, and am trying to decide which I want to do.

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hiimjered wrote:I'm about to dynamat my doors, and have a quick question. Did you apply dynamat to just the interior surface, or did you piece it onto the outer door surface as well?

I've seen both, and am trying to decide which I want to do.
You can get away with doing just the inner door skin, but a better result will come if you also to the inside of the outer door skin. For best results, you'll want to seal up the doors as well.

If you wish to save some serious coin, check out RAAMmat BXT. It's significantly cheaper than Dynamat Xtreme (I wouldn't recommend the standard Dynamat, as it's asphalt based). Check it out here: RAAMmat BXT

Read up on sound deadeners here.

Kolk1
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To make sure I explain this properly, I consider where the speaker mounts to be the Frame of the door, and the outer part, to be the skin. Lets say you get a door ding from a shopping cart, I would consider that to be the skin.

With that said, lets say you buy the 2 Door Kit from Dynamat, It doesnt mean it fits 2 door, but that it comes with 12 sq ft of dynamat. What I always do, is separate it down to how many panels I need to do. Lets say you bought the 12 sq ft kit, and want to do your front doors. That would give you 3 sq ft per panel. So, put 3 sq ft on each skin, then put 3 sq ft on each frame.

With only 3 sq ft per panel, your not going to have enough to seal the door, actually, you can never truely seal a door but thats besides the point. But when you only have 3sqft per panel, make sure that all the dynamat is on bare metal, dont try to cover up holes in the frame, you wont have even close to enough to full Soak the door. I consider fully covered Soaked, since sealing a door is technically impossible.

I will always use the name Dynamat to explain what im talking about, but I dont mean brand name of Dynamat. There are several brand names out there are cheaper, but just as good, or better than dynamat.

I actually got a good buy on 200sq ft of dynamt on ebay for $200. I used 150sq ft of it in my Fiances car. She has the stock stereo, but with that much sound deading, it now sounds pretty good, and driving down the road it almost pure silent. I did 3 layers on the floor, from firewall all the way to rear bumper, did 2 full layers on all the door skins, 2 full layers on all door frames, 2 layers on trunk walls, 1 layer on all fenders, and 1 layer on the roof. Then I used the last 50 sq ft to help finish off the previous 50-70 I already had in my Versa.

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Offshore1
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Ever Victorious wrote:
I hope it clarifies it for you, because I already understood that the first time through.

And apparently you didn't understand what I was trying to tell you.

The speakers that are in the SL WITHOUT the audio package are the EXACT same speakers as the SL WITH the audio package. The ONLY difference between the two packages is that the Audio Packages has an amp to drive the added RF sub.

Nissan does NOT change the other 6 speakers for the audio package.

Ergo, you already have the same speakers that would be found in that package. They're probably sitting in your garage right now.

Clear now?
Ok, Now I am confused. The Nissan parts book lists a completly different part # for door speakers "w/ Rockford System" and instead of listing for around $30 ea, the "W/ Rockford System" speakers list for approx $169.00ea.Additionally the Nissan sales literature states the audio package: "Premium speaker upgrade plus Rockford Fosgate-powered subwoofer"

For the reasons above - THAT is why I am thinking the door speakers that come w/ audio package would be a possible upgrade.

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Offshore1 wrote:
Ok, Now I am confused. The Nissan parts book lists a completly different part # for door speakers "w/ Rockford System" and instead of listing for around $30 ea, the "W/ Rockford System" speakers list for approx $169.00ea.Additionally the Nissan sales literature states the audio package: "Premium speaker upgrade plus Rockford Fosgate-powered subwoofer"

For the reasons above - THAT is why I am thinking the door speakers that come w/ audio package would be a possible upgrade.
Basically if you have the 6 disc indash changer then you have the Rockford Fosgate system. The 8" sub is the upgraded package above that.

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Offshore1
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joes13 wrote:If you have been in the audio business for 25 years, then why wouldn't you know that 99% of the time you upgrade speakers, and not the amp/headunit, the speakers sound like crap? I have been in and out of the business for about 8 years, and that is a rookie problem. Not trying to be a d!ck, but a very basic problem. The speakers you spoke of have an RMS rating of 60w, but the stock headunit, at its ultimate best might put out 30w rms. That equates to horrible sound out of aftermarket speakers.
Here we go - internet forums = idiots advising idiots. LOL (I am not trying to be a d!ck either) To answer your questions: #1: Some factory head units are nice (or at least ok) and a speaker upgrade will improve sound quality 99% of the time - especially in the detail and high frequency's. How many cars have you upgraded only speakers in? I have done this for more clients than I can remember, thus I lost count 15 years ago. #2: Wattage rating of a speaker means ZERO! If you have truly been in the business - AND received training - you know this as fact. Speaker sensitivity means more when you are dealing w/ lower power situation like the Versa HU.#3: 30 watts is considerable power for most listening situations. It is not enough power if you are trying to pound bass and/or make yourself heard 2 cars over. I don't believe the Versa HU is even 30w. Probably more like 10. But Nissan used 2ohm / VERY high sensitivity speakers; and they got it to sound - um - "ok". #4:Trying to make the correlation between: using a 30watt headunit and installing speakers that are rated for higher power (60W) means the result will be poor sound is - well - about as untrue as you can get.

Of course if I were to upgrade HU, I would get better sound. I choose to keep the bluetooth and wheel controls. I believe the Versa HU has an EQ curve in it for the factory speakers.

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Offshore1
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biggie wrote:Basically if you have the 6 disc indash changer then you have the Rockford Fosgate system. The 8" sub is the upgraded package above that.
I do believe the HU is the same, but then why does the Nissan parts book list a completely different part # for door speakers as "w/ Rockford Fosgate" and instead of listing for $30.53 ea, the "W/ Rockford Fosgate" speakers list for approx $167.50 ea.

Additionally the Nissan sales literature states the audio package: "Premium speaker upgrade plus Rockford Fosgate-powered subwoofer"

When I went to the dealer to inquire, the parts person needed my vin # to look up parts. He found the cheapo speakers I have in my car in the parts listing. He then looked up the parts for an audio package equipped car and the door speakers are different part #'s and more $$. The tweeters are the same # and of course I am not interfering at all to the sub.

BTW: For those asking about Dynamat: Do as much of the outside door skin as possible. Then add pieces to the inner skin. The inner does not need as much damping as it has window motor bolted to it, it has plastic stuck to it and lastly, the door panel sandwiches a thick piece of jute against it - thus the inner skin (as well as interior door panel) are pretty well damped. But adding a few pieces of Dynamat to the inner skin and interior door panel will help w/ some areas that are more "live". These "live" areas can be found by tapping the panel in question and if it sounds tinny, add Dynamat.I just did the doors in mine. Nice improvement. Next: Rear seat area. How do you remove the rear seat bottom cushion?


Modified by Offshore1 at 6:08 PM 7/23/2008

Ever Victorious
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Offshore1 wrote:I do believe the HU is the same, but then why does the Nissan parts book list a completely different part # for door speakers as "w/ Rockford Fosgate" and instead of listing for around $30 ea, the "W/ Rockford Fosgate" speakers list for approx $169.00ea.Additionally the Nissan sales literature states the audio package: "Premium speaker upgrade plus Rockford Fosgate-powered subwoofer"
Be that as it may, we had several forum members in late 2006/early 2007 take apart their speakers for various reasons (upgrades, curiosity, whatever) and we found that the S had cheap Panasonic cones, and both the SL and SL audio had the same Clarion speakers.

My explanation for the discrepancy? Nissan is seeing if they can get more $$ out of people who own the audio package when they replace the speakers.

Quote »I just did the doors in mine. Nice improvement. Next: Rear seat area. How do you remove the rear seat bottom cushion?[/quote]If you go to the FAQs area of the main nissanversa.org page, you can download the factory service manual. It will show you how to take apart any part or system in the vehicle.

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Offshore1
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Ever Victorious wrote: we found that the S had cheap Panasonic cones, and both the SL and SL audio had the same Clarion speakers..
I guess they changed them again!! I have Blaupunkt cheapos'. No tweeter, but a wizzer cone.

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Kolk1, You're probably quite aware of things I'm going to reply with, but I will do so anyway so that others may learn.
Kolk1 wrote:To make sure I explain this properly, I consider where the speaker mounts to be the Frame of the door, and the outer part, to be the skin. Lets say you get a door ding from a shopping cart, I would consider that to be the skin.
Noted and agreed on this nomenclature.

Quote »With that said, lets say you buy the 2 Door Kit from Dynamat, It doesnt mean it fits 2 door, but that it comes with 12 sq ft of dynamat. What I always do, is separate it down to how many panels I need to do. Lets say you bought the 12 sq ft kit, and want to do your front doors. That would give you 3 sq ft per panel. So, put 3 sq ft on each skin, then put 3 sq ft on each frame.

With only 3 sq ft per panel, your not going to have enough to seal the door, actually, you can never truely seal a door but thats besides the point. But when you only have 3sqft per panel, make sure that all the dynamat is on bare metal, dont try to cover up holes in the frame, you wont have even close to enough to full Soak the door. I consider fully covered Soaked, since sealing a door is technically impossible. [/quote]It's always a good idea to estimate the amount of material needed before ordering by measuring the door to get a rough idea. I usually measure the door, calculate area, multiply by 2, and add 10 to 20 percent. This usually gives more than enough deadener, and too much is always better than not enough.

Sealing a door is not "sealing" in the most literal of senses; i.e- making it air tight. It's simply covering the huge gaping holes in the door frame.

Visit this thread and scroll down to post #6 in the Baffle Construction/Door Treatments section.

Quote »I will always use the name Dynamat to explain what I'm talking about, but I don't mean brand name of Dynamat. There are several brand names out there are cheaper, but just as good, or better than Dynamat. [/quote]Noted, and thanks for clarifying your use of the terminolgy. I 100% agree that there are many viable alternatives to the Dynamat brand.

Quote »I actually got a good buy on 200sq ft of dynamt on ebay for $200. I used 150sq ft of it in my Fiances car. She has the stock stereo, but with that much sound deading, it now sounds pretty good, and driving down the road it almost pure silent. I did 3 layers on the floor, from firewall all the way to rear bumper, did 2 full layers on all the door skins, 2 full layers on all door frames, 2 layers on trunk walls, 1 layer on all fenders, and 1 layer on the roof. Then I used the last 50 sq ft to help finish off the previous 50-70 I already had in my Versa. [/quote]That is a pretty good deal. Amazon had the 36 sqft bulk pack of Xtreme on sale a while ago for under $100. Compared to the regular retail price, that was a really good deal, imo.


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