Speaker Adapters

[SlidewaysPOS13]

Hey guys,

I recently started working on making my own set of speaker templates that are based off of the available template on Nico, but slightly modified to fit a little better.

I have mine finished and I must say I'm very impressed with them. I was wondering, would anyone buy these if I made them for you? I'm not really looking for much profit, just trying to help out other members with less free-time than I.

Again, I understand the blueprint is freely available to everyone, but some people would rather buy these than make them. If you would be interested, what would be a good price? I have no idea on shipping.

I use high quality 1/4" medium density fiberboard. The mount holes are 1/4". I'm also building a protector on the back to guard the speaker against incoming rain water from old window seals. Also looking at a wax treatment for the board to make it more aesthetically pleasing and to protect it from moisture. I will get photos once I complete the water guard.

Also, are there any other parts you would like made for your s13? I say s13 because that's what I have and I need a car for R&D of parts. I'm not a professional, but I am a dedicated amateur fabricator with a degree in Mechanical Engineering right around the bend.

Cheers

[Razi]

I already have them, but I guess some people would be interested, depending on the price.

You can buy some on eBay for $16.99 + free shipping, which is made out of plastic.

[SlidewaysPOS13]

Yeah, but aren't those the junk universal ones? I was just curious. I'm not chomping at the bits to make a few bucks for hours of work, lol.

[Razi]

Nope, cut to fit for the S13.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Are we talking about the fronts? Like converting the 4x6 to a 6x9? I wouldn't mind doing that.

[SlidewaysPOS13]

Well, they're for 6.5's, but I could make a 6x9 template if it will fit. Yes, the fronts.

[AAV240sx]

I'd be down for a set depending on the price. As for other parts... what tools do you have at your disposal in terms of fabrication and design?

Btw yay for ME majors haha.

[SlidewaysPOS13]

For my tooling, I have my most important tool: my Solidworks 2011 software. Other than that, it's mostly hand tools. Saws, drills, sand paper, shears. I also have a welder and some aviator snips. I'm pretty good with metal working, but I'm less equipped. In high school, I made a medieval war helm out of sheet aluminum and band iron. It was awesome and I used all hand tools (except a drill) to make it like an old blacksmith would. I had all of the shop tools at my disposal though.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Post some pics!

I'd definitely pay $20-$25 shipped for some adapters.

[SlidewaysPOS13]

Working on it! These adapters are unfinished though. Meaning, my "rain guard" design isn't completed just yet, almost though. Also meaning I haven't treated the wood yet to keep moisture out.

Here are some photos of mine.

Mind you my "rain guard" is unfinished and the wood is still untreated.

[AAV240sx]

Looks nice~

You should try making a solid beefier one piece rear trunk brace similar to the gt-spec trunk brace.

[SlidewaysPOS13]

Hmm, that's odd. It just bolts to the floor pan? I mean, I figure the holes need drilled/tapped for the hardware as well. Does it do anything? I could definitly make a killer sturdy one of though.

What do they go for price wise? I bet I could make those relatively cheap.

[Razi]

Those just bolt onto the same bolts that hold your rear bumper support up.

I don't know if it does much though.
Might do something for a hatchback.

[AAV240sx]

Yeah, they bolt into where the rear bumper support goes, and it's suppose to reduce the flex in the rear of the chassis. Prices range from $100 for the Circuit sport hinged type bar to 150 dollars for the one piece gt-spec bar. As far as i've seen on the internet, those are the only 2 companies that make trunk braces for s-chassis's.

Supposedly, trunk braces were standard from Nissan in s15 spec R's and r34 gtr's... So they should definitely be of some benefit depending on how the bar is designed.

[SlidewaysPOS13]

Those just bolt onto the same bolts that hold your rear bumper support up.

I don't know if it does much though.
Might do something for a hatchback.

Oh, I never noticed any bolts there. That makes things easier. So, if I make one and unbolt all 4 bolts, will something bad happen to the support or is it retained enough to hold it's own weight for a few seconds while I install the bar?

Yeah, they bolt into where the rear bumper support goes, and it's suppose to reduce the flex in the rear of the chassis. Prices range from $100 for the Circuit sport hinged type bar to 150 dollars for the one piece gt-spec bar. As far as i've seen on the internet, those are the only 2 companies that make trunk braces for s-chassis's.

Supposedly, trunk braces were standard from Nissan in s15 spec R's and r34 gtr's... So they should definitely be of some benefit depending on how the bar is designed.

I could probably make a much stronger, less aesthetically pleasing brace for much cheaper. I'm looking into finding a steel supplier this week. I know the Integra Type R's came with one as well. It shall be a fun project!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Yeah, I bet the speaker adapters are more expensive/labor intensive than that trunk brace. $150 for that is a damn joke. Should be like, $30 max.

[SlidewaysPOS13]

Well I'll be making one an, if all goes well, try to sell them to you guys for much cheaper than those brandname bars, lol. I would use steel though. Much stronger and easier to weld.

[AAV240sx]

Nice keep us updated. I look forward to seeing what you crank out.

Also if you have any CFD programs and lots of free time on you hands, I have other suggestions for stuff you could try attempt at designing/fabricating.

[SlidewaysPOS13]

Nice keep us updated. I look forward to seeing what you crank out.

Also if you have any CFD programs and lots of free time on you hands, I have other suggestions for stuff you could try attempt at designing/fabricating.

I would absolutely love any ideas for parts I can make! Truly appreciated, they will be, lol. I am already sourcing the materials to make my own trunk brace (like the GT spec one), but much sturdier and cheaper!

Here's my finished product:

















I used tupper ware because it was available and effective.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Looks good!
How much shipped to 39046?

[SlidewaysPOS13]

Looks good!
How much shipped to 39046?

I'm going to make you my first official customer if everything goes as planned. As for price, I think shipping will be around $3-$5. Since you would be my first, what is a good price for this product?

I need to know some info before I start making anything. 1/4" MDF is what I'm willing to do for now.

Hole Size (mounting plate, NOT the speaker outer diameter):
Paste Wax Treatment? Y or N
Rainguard (this is a serious PITA, lol)? Y or N
Any porting or something else desired? I will try to accommodate.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Basic adapter for a 6.5" speaker or 6x9. Current speaker is a 4x6 for 91 coupe front door. Rain guards aren't necessary. I keep it garaged most of the time.

Mounting plate?
paste wax? Is that like waterproofing?
Porting not really necessary. Do what you want. Take pics of options for accurate answers.

[SlidewaysPOS13]

Well by mounting plate, I mean the diameter of the hole. Like my 6.5" has a 5.71" mounting surface. You may know it as the top mount diameter. Different 6.5" have different holes necessary. So, what size hole do you want? I don't want to make the standard size and yours not fit. Which speakers are you getting? I may be able to find the information. Paste wax is a treatment to block moisture. It will keep the plate adapter from warping and make it last longer, ideally. Porting is not necessary. I did not do it.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Ah, I haven't looked at speakers in forever.
If you can do 6x9s, I'd probably go with these:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_206DS693/K ... eviews-tab

6.5"s, I guess I'd go with:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSG1644 ... html?tp=95

[SlidewaysPOS13]

For the 6.5", it looks like a hole of 4 15/16" is needed. As for the 6x9's, I check that out when I have a computer. Because they have a large paortion exposed and are not flush mount, I may move the hole slightly to the right to avoid the door panel. Is that okay?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Whatever makes it fit and doesn't rattle.

6x9s would be ideal... they offer almost 28% MORE surface area over a 6.5, and a whopping 125% MORE than the factory 4x6.

[SlidewaysPOS13]

whatever makes it fit and doesn't rattle.

Alright, I'll start working on it when I get the chance this week. Paste wax or no? Also, quarter inch mount holes are good?

I have mine hand tightened with sockets and I've never had rattling even with a killer system.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Paste wax yes please.

Mount holes for what, the speaker or the adapter to the door? Did you use factory hardware or did you upgrade?

[SlidewaysPOS13]

There is the problem for me. When I got my car, it already had s*** crafted adapters. That being said, the guy destroyed the factory holes with large self-tapping screws. The holes were FUBAR. I just drilled them out with 1/4" bit and matched the adapter by drilling a 1/4" hole in it as well. So, I don't really know how the stock hardware will work with this without someone local letting me test it on their vehicle. What may be a good idea is I will just mark the holes general location (where I make my 1/4" holes) and you can drill out the size you want there for your fasteners? It's your decision because it's your product. What do you want me to do?

As for rattling, I used two 10mm sockets to hand tighten the adapter down. I am running two 1" Rockford Punch P2's speakers and they thump with zero rattle on the adapters. Also, when I close the door, they are as sturdy as torqued steel. I don't make junk