Spark Plugs 97Q

[SardarQ]

I changed by plugs about 10k miles ago at 75K on a 97Q. Removing them wasn't too bad. I used anti-sieze compound and di-electric grease on the connectors.

I didn't have a torque wrench - so I guessed the torque. After handtightening the plugs I gave it about one whole turn with the wrech - roughly.

I just read that proper torque is achieved at 1/4 turn after hand tightening them. ????

Does this mean the plugs are too tight - I hope they come out in the future (next interval at about 120k). Should I pull them to see if the torque is ok.

Again, I used anti-sieze compound. Someone please help

Follow Q member.

[maxnix]

You are probably OK since you used a high temperature antiseize, but use a torque wrench next time.

[DAEDALUS]

Where did you get the 1/4 number? Thought it was more like 2/3 or 3/4. What torque would you guess you applied to the plugs?

[SardarQ]

http://www.nology.com/torque.html

Says it should be 1/4 turn. I would guess that it shouldn't be over 30 pounds of torque. What do you think? Is that ok given that I have the anti-sieze on the plugs or should I pull them now? It'll cost me about $65 plus shipping to do the plugs again with a torque wrench.

[SardarQ]

How much torque can the NGK plugs handle prior to breaking? I would think the new plugs would be a little more stronger than the plugs in old cars - about 20 or so years ago?

[SardarQ]

Heres my baby

[SardarQ]

[SardarQ]

Sorry - the pics didn't come out - I hope this does

[SardarQ]

Ok

[SardarQ]

Forget it - I have to check the formatting of the pictures.

[SardarQ]

I dont give up....

[SardarQ]

Heres the body

[SardarQ]

And NICO of course!!!

[DAEDALUS]

Nice pics!

I'm less concerned about the plugs than I am about the head/seat. If the car runs fine then I'd stick with them and hope for the best next time you replace them.

[maxnix]

How much torque can the NGK plugs handle prior to breaking? I would think the new plugs would be a little more stronger than the plugs in old cars - about 20 or so years ago?

It's not the plugs, it the threads in the aluminum heads that fail.

I think 28 ft. lbs is the maximum, but check the box.

If you are not very familiar with aluminum, and even if you are, always use lubrication and a torque wrench. The clue is feeling the crush washer compressing. I would estimate that some of the OEM plugs on my wife's VH41DE required in excess of 40 ft. lbs. to loosen.

Hopefully you intalled the correct NGK plugs. If not, yank them and replace.

[SardarQ]

What do you mean its the aluminum heads that fail? Crossthreading?? I hope that it will be minimized with anti-sieze compound. I used the OEM plugs.

I remember hearing a slights arrg (tightening sound) when tightening them. THat was the point where I stopped the torque. If you guys did the plugs before - I hope you know what I'm talking about.

How much torque would you estimate that to be? It was roughly about 1 turn +/- 1/4 turn (more plus probably )

The car runs OK so far ... what should I do?

[metaverse3]

Leave it alone and just drive it.. Don't sweat the small stuff.

Don't invest in a torque wrench to do spark plugs.. You used anti-seize, most folks don't even know what it is, let alone use it.. You are already a step ahead.

Rule of thumb is like similar to oil filter, tighten by hand until you sense resistance. Then turn a bit, 1/2 to 3/4 turns..

Anti-seize will not minimize/eliminate crossthreading. You will feel resistance when cross threading. The sound might be the crush washer crushing..

[CoastyAV8R]

I have seen more work and money spent because people don't use a torque wrench. A good one costs $75. What's the cost to remove a cylinder head and put in a helicoil? What's done is done so I wouldn't tear it apart over this but in the future, consider a torque wrench as cheap insurance for your car and peace of mind because had you used one, this wouldn't be an issue...

Don't invest in a torque wrench to do spark plugs.. You used anti-seize, most folks don't even know what it is, let alone use it.. You are already a step ahead.

[DAEDALUS]

Just FYI, the instructions on the NGK plug box say to tighten 1/2 - 3/4 turns past hand tight. What you're weighing is the risk of it failing no matter what vs the risk of it failing if you leave them in for 60k (but not failing now). I too would leave them in. Keep it in mind and be prepared to have to remove the heads next time you replace the plugs. Have a 2nd car handy just in case.

[maxnix]

Cross threading is pretty obvious. Simple installation requires no extra torque, hand threading is sufficient. Why one never starts with a wrench attached when threading into aluminum. Clean the threads in the recievers and the bolt, and lubricate appropriately. Old school, but it saves a lot of grief and always leads to correct assembly and within specification disassembly.

Crush washer is the one time indicator for none torque wrench technician wanna bes.

[SardarQ]

I was just changing the plugs on my maxima and I used proper torque this time. I tired to force break the old plugs to see how much torque would be required - its a lot!

I'm thinking the porcelin may break in the head but to break the steel would require more torque - I could be wrong.

Assumming that I did not crossthread the heads - how would I damage the heads by torqueing the plugs more than they should be?

I'm just scared to do the plugs on the Q now.... let it run until I have no choice....

[maxnix]

Heads are AL on the Maxima also, so stay scared if you must.

Couple of posts abve describes consequences of over torqueing the plug. It is not the steel that breaks.

If you have no leaks, stay cool until next time, then proceed carefully.

[CoastyAV8R]

I've noticed it always take more torque to remove something from aluminum that it did to install it so don't fret over how much it took to remove them, it will increase some. What's done is done, I wouldn't lose sleep over the plugs in the Q, you have a while before you have to change them out again and even then your technique may just work for you...