spark plug change narrative and a couple questions

[phildery]

So,
Ordered the OEM plugs from Amazon. $13.20/per and free shipping. Partsgeek has them cheaper but with the shipping it's a toss up. Followed the FSM and had everything removed - cool. Some of the electrical connectors were a PITA to separate, but I just walked away a few times and went back at it.

These plugs are 14mm. Ever try to find a 14mm plug socket? I did (try). I couldn't find one locally. I had multiple standard sizes so I re-appropriated a rubber plug holder insert and cut it down to fit my 14mm 1/4 socket. I couldn't find my 3/8" extensions (forshadowing...).
I cut the rubber in half lengthwise. I removed about 1/8 wide slice up the side. I press fit it into the socket.

The socket ended up being just short enough to push the extension out and make it impossible to remove the plug/socket combo. I couldn't find my magnetic retrieval tool either. I ended up making the trip to the box store and bought a cheap set of 3/8" extensions and some magnetic retrieval tools. After that it was all good.

I had the most difficulty removing the passenger side connector closest to the firewall (#6, I think). I just cursed, took a breather, and worked at it but eventually was able to separate it.

I wanted to torque the plugs per the FSM (14 ft.lbs) but discovered that my torque wrenches only went down to 20 or 25 ft.lbs. I relied on the old school method of tightening to the gaskets and then some more. I was more concerned with the assembly of the throttle valves, as the connectors pass through the body which is plastic. I used a nut driver (screwdriver type thing) with a hex socket and snugged them up.

An abbreviated work flow:

Driver's side:

- Remove engine top cover - I used a Hitachi 10.8v cordless w/10 mm socket

- Move clips on EGR/PVC breather tube away from ends. Remove tube (connecting banks)

- Move clips on tubes around MAF

- Loosen clips on intake air tube, both ends - Hitachi w/8mm socket. Screwdriver works too but not enjoyable.

- Very technical: gently wiggle air tube, it'll pull loose

- Remove the throttle valve. I have some hex sockets (5mm) that were made to order for this (craftsman).
Do not remove coolant/electrical connections from the throttle valves. If power is removed you have to do idle/fuel relearning procedures.
I covered the valve w/a microfiber towel and also blocked the intake with another one, just in case a fastener jumped loose and was trying to ruin my day.

You now are able to gain access to the 3 plugs on this side of the engine. You have a limited range of movement of the throttle valve assembly but it is sufficient to get gat access to the plugs. I removed/replaced them one at a time. I used antiseize on the plugs, and gave a little silicone spray to the tops of the plugs to help ensure release from the socket after installation. I used a magnetic dish to hold bolts/screws.

The old plugs looked good. I saved them in the boxes the new ones came in, noting their position on the box. I can't imagine when this will be useful, but you never know.

Pax side is essentially the same except no MAF.

When reconnecting the various tubes put the connectors back into their "footprint".

After action review:
I really would like to have had a torque wrench that has a low range; I'm looking for one now.
I would have crazy glued the rubber insert into my socket.
Make sure to return your tools to their home (I later found the tools I was looking for) when you're finished with them.

My understanding is this a ~$400 dealer service. After buying plugs and some more tools, I saved $300 for a nice few hours with my car.

Enjoy.

Where do you get a 14mm plug socket?
How about a low torque, torque wrench?

phil

2007 G35x ~108k

[audtatious]

Great info for others.

I usually look for deep-well 14mm sockets instead of worrying about a specific plug socket. I also use the "finger tight and tighten some more" approach when dealing with plugs.

[phildery]

The deep well socket was my thought going in. The 1/4" drive were (just barely) not deep enough. The 3/8" worked fine as I said above. I thought I had all kinds of tools and I could make it work; the thought was there, alas, I was spanked. Good excuse to get more tools though!

[audtatious]

Absolutely. Why start new projects if you can't buy something new?

[lomita]

The deep well socket was my thought going in. The 1/4" drive were (just barely) not deep enough. The 3/8" worked fine as I said above. I thought I had all kinds of tools and I could make it work; the thought was there, alas, I was spanked. Good excuse to get more tools though!

I use some vacuum line, like quarter inch inner diameter, maybe 8" long, fit it over the plug, lower it to the head and start hand threading it. Once I am a couple of threads engaged, then I pull the vacuum line off and put the socket down on the plug and torque it. Works out pretty good. It's a good shop aid.

[kmckis1029]

That can't be worst than changing a fuel filter on a 91 Toyota celica or replacing that leaking vtec O ring in a Honda lol

My car is almost at 60k miles... ill do this at 80-90k miles... I'm not paying the dealership for this job. Every time I look under my hood I cringe at the spark plug job that's coming lol.

[ikeT]

I am trying to replace my spark plugs on my G37 but I can't find a socket small enough to fit to remove the spark plug. Any suggestions.

[phildery]

Not sure what you mean by 'small enough'. I used a 14mm deep well socket. (ref initial post)

[kmckis1029]

i ran into the same problem... i just changed my spark plugs about 10k miles ago... you got to have a "slim" spark plug remover, i think its a 14, else you cant get the socket down the hole. took me a couple trips to find the right tool. after that it wasnt as bad of a job as i expected.