:( Spark plug Broke inside head

[rn240sx]

Ok, when i cranked up the car in the morning, it had a mis-fire to it... Found it to be the # 3 spark plug. So as i started to remove it, i got to about a 1/4 turn and it came to a stop... So i then put some more force to it and SNAP it broke in half... Now ive had stubborn spark plugs b4 and some that had lots of resistance to them but they all came out eventually and ive got new ones it there, but this one obviously didnt wana come out for whatever reason and it snapped in half. When i looked down the hole all i could see was that metal compression ring, the white ceramic material and the electrode... Now my few questions are, what caused this plug to seize up inside the head..? Ive changed out MANY spark plugs in my time and some come out easy, some have resistance, but never have i ran into one where it snapped in half in the head....

Is there an extraction tool that can pull the bottom half out without removing the head..?? (not feeling lucky on this option) or do i really need to remove the head..??

Can i re-use the cometic HG..??Can i re-use the ARP's..??

btw its a built 98 dohc ka-t...

[rn240sx]

here is picture of what portion came out and what is still in the head...

[moso]

if the spark plug was over torqued when it was installed, or if the threads were previously damaged that could cause the plug to ceaze in the hole. unfortunately there is no real way to remove the rest of it without removing the head. if you get right down to it there is no real way to remove the plug end without drilling it out first leaving all kinds of junk in your cyl. no good. as far as the HG, really i dont know. however i do know that arp studs are reusable, arp has said many times "As long as you have not exceeded the recommended torque for that fastener, and it takes the torque and does not feel spongy, the stud should be fine." that being said arp also states that using ANY tool to "clean up" the threads on either the studs or bolts is not allowed, any stud or bolt with a messy thread is trash.

[s13_chris]

Options.

1- Remove head and do it the right way ensuring 100% job done.

2- Helicoil it out and risk debri. **An idea if you really want to risk it, get a shop vac or something like that and have it suck up the debri will you drill. Or the opposite a air compressor blowing air while you are drilling. Just an idea.

[ericb382]

ARP - measure for bolt stretch

Cometic - assuming there are no other problems with the HG, if you didn't use copper spray you should be able to reuse it. If you did, you may or may not get lucky.

[gigabit240]

Sorry dude ur gonna have to take the head out to get to that sucker lolz

[rn240sx]

yea im getting mixed answers on how to do this and most say to drill and use an extractor... But the only thing about using a drill and extractor is getting pieces of ceramic inside the chamber and there is NO guarantee that a vacuum will suck it all out... especially if one of those t i n y pieces happen to fall between the piston and the wall... then its over once i crank it up and then its more $$ for repairs, especially with CP pistons in there...So its cheaper and better to just yank the head and get it out the right way... its just sux... all this work over a broken spark plug..!!!

[rn240sx]

if the spark plug was over torqued when it was installed, or if the threads were previously damaged that could cause the plug to ceaze in the hole.

i didnt over torque them cause i torque my plugs all the same on every car and the other 3 plugs came out just fine... When i put the plugs in, they all went in nice and smooth with finger turns until it stopped, then put the wrench to it with a 1/4 turn... this is the 1st time ive had trouble with a spark plug and i have never used anti-seize on this car in 5 yrs..

[ericb382]

you could try an extractor and just not drill all the way through, so the mottom portion of the plug holds the shavings from droping in. Doubt it will work, but it might be worth a shot before pulling the head. Also, if you hit it with a hammer and a brass drift it will help un-sieze (if thats a word) the threads. You just might not have much to hit now without doing more damage... use your own judgement on that since I can't see what's left in there. It works well regular nuts, bolts, etc.

[gigabit240]

yea im getting mixed answers on how to do this and most say to drill and use an extractor... But the only thing about using a drill and extractor is getting pieces of ceramic inside the chamber and there is NO guarantee that a vacuum will suck it all out... especially if one of those t i n y pieces happen to fall between the piston and the wall... then its over once i crank it up and then its more $$ for repairs, especially with CP pistons in there...So its cheaper and better to just yank the head and get it out the right way... its just sux... all this work over a broken spark plug..!!!

Dude seriously just take the head off to get to it... its alot of work but its fool proof if you know what your doin.

[classicconnection]

Try using the first step that uses the easy out and following the suggestion not to break through the lower porcelan. Then, if, you can't get it out, or if you do and you find the lower procelan did break through, then you have the big step to take; pull the head. Worst case, you pull the head. Best case, you get the plug out, no leakage down into the cylinder and you save the labor. Try also breaking one of the good plugs and practice on it with the broken plug in your vise. That way, you get the right depth to drill, right size easyout and finally, you learn if it's possible to even get it out. Just a couple of thoughts.