when pulling out fuses i know your suppose to just pull fuses out to see where the draw is coming from or find that short circuit, but i was wondering, do i remove the fuses in the engine bay's fuse box too?
ill already pull fuses from the fusebox close to the clutch pedal.
and another question: does the s13 240sx have any other fuse boxes? i know some cars have one under the dash and a fusebox in the glove compartment.
so i was wondering any other places i should check?
i want my S!3 to be alive again!
Modified by miracleboi123 at 2:30 PM 2/21/2009
sourcing parasitic drain: engine bay fusebox & underdash fusebox?
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miracleboi123
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Re: sourcing parasitic drain: engine bay fuse ... (miracleboi123)
Quit making threads daily about this. One is just fine we reply.
Get a current meter, and this is how you do it.
Clamp on style DC current meter
- Clamp the battery cable (either one works, I would do negative as I believe in Electron flow). Do this with the car not running, keys out. - Observe the current displayed on the meter. - Start with the interior fuse box and pull one fuse, observe the meter and look for a reduction in current, note the fuses that cause current to decrease, NOTE MEANING WRITE DOWN WHAT FUSE, AND THE AMOUNT OF CURRENT THAT WAS REDUCED (original current - current after pulling fuse=Circuit current). Do this to all of the fuses. Note the when the interior light, and cluster bulbs go off your going to reduce some current.- Repeat this procedure for the fuses under the hood.- Now review your notes and check to see what these fuses are for that are pulling current in the off position. (Check the fuse legends or FSM) Normal ones will be 100-800mA range for the radio memory, Lights if door was open, clock, alarm. Eliminate the normal ones and isolate the trouble branch circuit. Then trouble shoot that circuit from fuse to the harness to the devices connected.- FIX- Drink Beer
Digital non clamp multimeter
- Observe the warning on the meter and observe the current rating of the meter (probably 10-15A)- Engine Off, Ignition off- Put the probes in the appropriate holes and set the meter for DC current- Remove a fuse from the interior fuse box, and place one lead to each of the metal tabs where the fuse was. This allows the current to flow through the meter. - Note the current for each circuit and observe anything over 500mA. - Repeat this for all fuses and check your current reading VS the fuse legend or FSM. Eliminate the normal current reading and isolate the trouble branch circuit. Then trouble shoot that circuit from fuse to the harness to the devices connected.- FiX- Drink Beer
Get a current meter, and this is how you do it.
Clamp on style DC current meter
- Clamp the battery cable (either one works, I would do negative as I believe in Electron flow). Do this with the car not running, keys out. - Observe the current displayed on the meter. - Start with the interior fuse box and pull one fuse, observe the meter and look for a reduction in current, note the fuses that cause current to decrease, NOTE MEANING WRITE DOWN WHAT FUSE, AND THE AMOUNT OF CURRENT THAT WAS REDUCED (original current - current after pulling fuse=Circuit current). Do this to all of the fuses. Note the when the interior light, and cluster bulbs go off your going to reduce some current.- Repeat this procedure for the fuses under the hood.- Now review your notes and check to see what these fuses are for that are pulling current in the off position. (Check the fuse legends or FSM) Normal ones will be 100-800mA range for the radio memory, Lights if door was open, clock, alarm. Eliminate the normal ones and isolate the trouble branch circuit. Then trouble shoot that circuit from fuse to the harness to the devices connected.- FIX- Drink Beer
Digital non clamp multimeter
- Observe the warning on the meter and observe the current rating of the meter (probably 10-15A)- Engine Off, Ignition off- Put the probes in the appropriate holes and set the meter for DC current- Remove a fuse from the interior fuse box, and place one lead to each of the metal tabs where the fuse was. This allows the current to flow through the meter. - Note the current for each circuit and observe anything over 500mA. - Repeat this for all fuses and check your current reading VS the fuse legend or FSM. Eliminate the normal current reading and isolate the trouble branch circuit. Then trouble shoot that circuit from fuse to the harness to the devices connected.- FiX- Drink Beer
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miracleboi123
- Posts: 143
- Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2008 5:27 pm
- Car: 93 s13 coupe
Re: sourcing parasitic drain: engine bay fuse ... (miracleboi123)
WHEW:
heres an update, i got a test light, and i pulled every fuse in the interior fuse box besides the drivers side foot.The light did not go out, so i went to the engine fuse box. Ok i pulled out the 25a 32v light brown fuse. found out that was the one! the light was gone completely, i looked ontop of the fuse box cover and found out its the "FL25A___ENG CONT" fuse.The light is gone now, and im gonna need to trace it where its going. So that is my update, i researched on google, and i found some things saying about an ECU and such, just wondering, can a ECU ever be bad?
thanks nico for helping me find this bad problem of mine!
if you guys could give me some updates:
has anyone ever had any trouble?what was wrong,
and what should be my next approach to this problem.
And can i plug the positive and negative terminals back into the battery with the car turned off to see if the car will last a couple of days without the light brown fuse in? Cause if i found out after 3 - to a week without this fuse and i have no battery drain this is my problem!
again, thank you for those who have helped me, i know i bothered a lot of people with these threads but i found the problem.
if anyone could please answer my questions! that would be great!
heres an update, i got a test light, and i pulled every fuse in the interior fuse box besides the drivers side foot.The light did not go out, so i went to the engine fuse box. Ok i pulled out the 25a 32v light brown fuse. found out that was the one! the light was gone completely, i looked ontop of the fuse box cover and found out its the "FL25A___ENG CONT" fuse.The light is gone now, and im gonna need to trace it where its going. So that is my update, i researched on google, and i found some things saying about an ECU and such, just wondering, can a ECU ever be bad?
thanks nico for helping me find this bad problem of mine!
if you guys could give me some updates:
has anyone ever had any trouble?what was wrong,
and what should be my next approach to this problem.
And can i plug the positive and negative terminals back into the battery with the car turned off to see if the car will last a couple of days without the light brown fuse in? Cause if i found out after 3 - to a week without this fuse and i have no battery drain this is my problem!
again, thank you for those who have helped me, i know i bothered a lot of people with these threads but i found the problem.
if anyone could please answer my questions! that would be great!
-
miracleboi123
- Posts: 143
- Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2008 5:27 pm
- Car: 93 s13 coupe
Re: sourcing parasitic drain: engine bay fuse ... (miracleboi123)
anyone has any idea what the fl25a powers?
i tried reading the FSM but that just gave me headache... help please!
i want to know where this thing starts and stop so i can trace the short circuit and fix it!
please help
i tried reading the FSM but that just gave me headache... help please!
i want to know where this thing starts and stop so i can trace the short circuit and fix it!
please help
Re: sourcing parasitic drain: engine bay fusebox & underdash
did you ever solve this?