So I've been around the forums for awhile now just learning as much as I can about the different advantages of the KA's, RB's, and SR's. Since this will be my first build I really want to stay away from a strait swap for the moment, but I want to learn to drift, and have a mild drift/daily that I will enjoy.

Right now I have a KA24DE with no mods and an automatic trans. My first goal is a 5 speed swap and then go from there with coils and such.

My main questions right now are:

1. From personal experinces would it be better to build N/A for around 150hp and 155~ torque, or to build a mild turbo for around 200hp and 205~ torque?

2. Would you suggest a lighter flywheel and driveshaft, or heavier?

3. What are the advantages/disadvantages, and would you suggest, a welded diferential for my first build?

I've searched all these on the forums and am just looking for feedback. I've also searched builds for both N/A and turbo, but can't really find a laid out parts list, so if you could throw out some ideas that would help alot too.

Thanks, Bryan

All these questions have been answered. The quick answer.

1) Turbo

2) Yes Lighter

3) Go LSD.

Well an N/A build consists of basic stuff, like header, full exhaust, and an intake. You can add larger injectors and MAF and get a tune for it, but I don't see the point of doing that with an N/A build.

Go to the KA-T section for information on turbocharging. It sounds like you want a t2 setup, there is a lot of info on low boost setups if you search for it. Search for threads created by either me or Razi, we have practically the same setup and both made build threads, there should be enough info combined for you to put together a list of parts. Your power goals are easily attainable with a low cost t2 setup.

Lighter drivetrain components rev faster but don't keep as much potential energy. This really only comes into play at extremely high levels of performance and competition, so don't worry about it. Stock flywheel is fine, but if you have a chance I suggest upgrading the stock driveshaft due to its poor design.

Welded diff doesn't really apply to building a KA, but if you want to do it then go for it. It makes daily driving a pain but you notice a difference on the track.

If you want to start drifting I suggest you do the 5sp swap like you've planned, but leave the rest of your engine stock. Focus more on suspension before power, as better suspension will improve your track experience way more than in increase in power. I had plenty of fun drifting my stock KA, I boosted it because I wanted something a little more powerful.

Chris28 wrote: If you want to start drifting I suggest you do the 5sp swap like you've planned, but leave the rest of your engine stock.

OP, check out this video, "Drifting with a stock KA24E." Dude is killing it, and with only a 140 crank hp motor with 170,000 miles:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPWSQgJB0Fs

Chris28 wrote:Well an N/A build consists of basic stuff, like header, full exhaust, and an intake. You can add larger injectors and MAF and get a tune for it, but I don't see the point of doing that with an N/A build.

Go to the KA-T section for information on turbocharging. It sounds like you want a t2 setup, there is a lot of info on low boost setups if you search for it. Search for threads created by either me or Razi, we have practically the same setup and both made build threads, there should be enough info combined for you to put together a list of parts. Your power goals are easily attainable with a low cost t2 setup.

Lighter drivetrain components rev faster but don't keep as much potential energy. This really only comes into play at extremely high levels of performance and competition, so don't worry about it. Stock flywheel is fine, but if you have a chance I suggest upgrading the stock driveshaft due to its poor design.

Welded diff doesn't really apply to building a KA, but if you want to do it then go for it. It makes daily driving a pain but you notice a difference on the track.

If you want to start drifting I suggest you do the 5sp swap like you've planned, but leave the rest of your engine stock. Focus more on suspension before power, as better suspension will improve your track experience way more than in increase in power. I had plenty of fun drifting my stock KA, I boosted it because I wanted something a little more powerful.

Thanks for all the advice.

So would I want Coils, Sways, and Struts? or not that much yet?

I will look more into a t2 turbo, but I'm still in high school so money is still a bit tight. Although the 5 speed will come within the month hopefully. Do you think I can do the swap on my own or should I have it installed professionally?

Moving to 240 Gen.

My advice, because I was just like you. Do suspension work to the car first. Learn how the car handles, THEN throw power into it. It's a much different ball game drifting with more horsepower, and if you don't know how to control the car, it's going to be difficult.

I would suggest an OEM flywheel, but a lightweight driveshaft. Also, coilovers and a decent clutch.

Yeah definitely keep the motor stock for now. All you need is a differential of some sort. A bucket seat would be great too. Eventually get coilovers and adjustable suspension arms, then once you master that, you can upgrade power.

ILoveMyRHS13 wrote:My advice, because I was just like you. Do suspension work to the car first. Learn how the car handles, THEN throw power into it. It's a much different ball game drifting with more horsepower, and if you don't know how to control the car, it's going to be difficult.

I would suggest an OEM flywheel, but a lightweight driveshaft. Also, coilovers and a decent clutch.

So stick with the flywheel in the trans, and say a stage 2 clutch? Because I don't want it shifting to hard as a daily, and I know nothing on driveshafts, just off hand, would you have any suggestions towards one? I was also thinking TIEN s-tech coils, with maybe a 1.5" drop all around.

Thanks for all the help.

S13Teddy wrote:Yeah definitely keep the motor stock for now. All you need is a differential of some sort. A bucket seat would be great too. Eventually get coilovers and adjustable suspension arms, then once you master that, you can upgrade power.

What does welding the differential do exactly? I've heard alot about it, never looked into it. I was thinking about getting a different seat, heard the stock ones are mighty uncomfortable on the track, but I'm not sure how I would mount the harness without a harness bar. Although if I did I might just have to go with the pink 4pt you had. Haha probably my favorite build thread by the way.

Thanks for the imput.

-Bryan

No offence but if you don't know what a welded diff is you shouldn't be drifting, I mean that in the nicest way possible. You should read some more build theads, you can get most of the info your asking from them.If your geting a aftermarket seat its recomended not to get a harness, and some good coils are powered by max, stance, d-max,bc racing, ect. Most of the big name coilovers (greddy,tein,D5) are way over priced because there on all the pros cars and there in all of the magizines.

To begin drifting, invest in the big 3.

2 was LSDBucket SeatCoilovers

Beyond that, practice and get better.

make sure your motor is at least RELIABLE though.i started modifying suspension/wheel/tire/exterior/interior and then my engine died.

Read teddys thread, he rocked that car stock engine for a longtime. Also read more threads, all the questions you are asking have been answered before.

Here is a good thread on the great welded diff debate . Basically what it comes down to is if you DD your car go lsd but if its a drive to the track and drift and then go home car a welded diff is ideal. A welded diff is locked at all times. both tires spin at the same speed at all times.

troskinatior wrote:No offence but if you don't know what a welded diff is you shouldn't be drifting, I mean that in the nicest way possible.

But Takumi didn't know what a welded diff was and he could drift?! I tried searching but I'm still confused.

troskinatior wrote:No offence but if you don't know what a welded diff is you shouldn't be drifting, I mean that in the nicest way possible. You should read some more build theads, you can get most of the info your asking from them.If your geting a aftermarket seat its recomended not to get a harness, and some good coils are powered by max, stance, d-max,bc racing, ect. Most of the big name coilovers (greddy,tein,D5) are way over priced because there on all the pros cars and there in all of the magizines.

None taken, that's why I'm on the forums. I want to learn as much as possible before I throw it to the wind and go to an event.So just the standered belt would be enough? I only say TIEN because that's what my brothers have on there 300's, so that's what I've been around the most.

Thanks for the help and the critisism.

BrianHarte wrote:To begin drifting, invest in the big 3.

2 was LSDBucket SeatCoilovers

Beyond that, practice and get better.

I'll look into them, thanks.

240lookis wrote:make sure your motor is at least RELIABLE though.i started modifying suspension/wheel/tire/exterior/interior and then my engine died.

When I first bought the car it had a warped head I wasn't told about, so the new engine has around 53k with good compression. I'll watch out for trouble though, thanks.

J14cm7 wrote:Read teddys thread, he rocked that car stock engine for a longtime. Also read more threads, all the questions you are asking have been answered before.

Here is a good thread on the great welded diff debate. Basically what it comes down to is if you DD your car go lsd but if its a drive to the track and drift and then go home car a welded diff is ideal. A welded diff is locked at all times. both tires spin at the same speed at all times.

Nah, it will be my DD. I will look more into an lsd then.

Thanks for the help.-Bryan

BrianHarte wrote:To begin drifting, invest in the big 3.

2 was LSDBucket SeatCoilovers

Beyond that, practice and get better.

Also remember that a 2 way is basically a welded diff. Its characteristics are a little different but they are just as obnoxious. And a welded diff is about 800 bucks cheaper

J14cm7 wrote:
Also remember that a 2 way is basically a welded diff. Its characteristics are a little different but they are just as obnoxious. And a welded diff is about 800 bucks cheaper

How much would a 1 way be?

Oh yeah I guess.

I chose not to go the ghetto way on my cars, though.

J14cm7 wrote:
Also remember that a 2 way is basically a welded diff. Its characteristics are a little different but they are just as obnoxious. And a welded diff is about 800 bucks cheaper

WHAT

No, no no no.

Just weld your diff for learning. Once you have a feel for it and if you still enjoy it, spend money on a 2 way.

Don't waste your time on a 1 way. That will only lock under acceleration.

V-LSD?

Why waste time on goofy "in between" mods?

Just save your money and get a nice 2 Way LSD.Do it once. Do it the right way. Don't waste time and money

IMO I would do the following but, again, I don't have as much experience as some of these guys.

1) Turbo is better but it would be a better idea to keep stock until you can outdrift the car. From what I have learned and been told, you want to be able to out perform the car before you let the car out perform you. If you cannot control the car in stock form, you most likely will not be able to control it with double the power.

2) Im not positive on the driveshaft but I believe it to be lighter/aluminum is better for lower hp cars(lets say3-400max) but heavier/steel driveshaft is better for butt loads of power.

3) I have a lsd and I love it. It is just a stock one but it locks great. The only downside of a welded imo is slow turning(parking lots for example) you will chirp tires turning slowly but if you dont care about it, it will work fine and be very predictable. Again, you should do the 5 speed swap and better brake pads first. After that, I would stick with suspension because finishing the suspension first will give the car a whole different feel and let you calculate how much hp you will actually need instead of throwing a number out there. Good luck with everything and just have fun...thats what it is all about

I wouldn't spend a dime on an aftermarket driveshaft. Your stock one will work just fine.

moved again, to drifting

Soo.. I'm not sure if it's worth even messing with an LSD since it sounds like a pain in the a** as a DD. But I guess it's still pretty much mandatory to drift?

OutToWinPAHC wrote:moved again, to drifting

Thanks for the second move..

-Bryan

no no no, lsd's are not a pain or anything. you just need to read up on them a little bit. you want to know which one you want. you can get 1way, 1.5 way, 2 way, open and welded. you have an open diff now. a welded may be a little annoying but it is all up to the driver. it may chirp the tires parking and kick in the rain a little bit but that is because it is always locked. just research and find the one that works. I dont know them all of the top of my head but an lsd/welded diff is a must for drifting. It will make it 10x more fun and easier to get sideways. research and figure out what you want. My car came with a j30 dff in it so I will recommend that you look into a j30. check http://www.jdmhookup.com, they usually have some diffs.

http://www.240sx.org/links/installs/lsd2/index.htm check this out too

bllabong89 wrote:no no no, lsd's are not a pain or anything. you just need to read up on them a little bit. you want to know which one you want. you can get 1way, 1.5 way, 2 way, open and welded. you have an open diff now. a welded may be a little annoying but it is all up to the driver. it may chirp the tires parking and kick in the rain a little bit but that is because it is always locked. just research and find the one that works. I dont know them all of the top of my head but an lsd/welded diff is a must for drifting. It will make it 10x more fun and easier to get sideways. research and figure out what you want. My car came with a j30 dff in it so I will recommend that you look into a j30. check http://www.jdmhookup.com, they usually have some diffs.

Very informative, and what do you mean with welded it's all up to the driver?I'll look into the j30's, have you had any problems with it?

Thanks-Bryan

ghetto? Or wanting to show people you have the money. This is the biggest debate on Nico. Ive only heard of one welded diff failing out of the zillions of people that have them. Ive heard of plenty of 2ways being warn out. As for the axle debate, Only heard of one person breaking an axle and that was because they didn't have their bolts tight so that wasn't a diff issue.

The people that have two ways and bash welded diffs are jealous that they spent 800 dollars more than i did and have the same result. After all your frame is welded together and you don't say that's ghetto.

KAed 240 wrote:

How much would a 1 way be?

Dont do it its going to be a waste of your time and money

J14cm7 wrote:ghetto? Or wanting to show people you have the money. This is the biggest debate on Nico. Ive only heard of one welded diff failing out of the zillions of people that have them. Ive heard of plenty of 2ways being warn out. As for the axle debate, Only heard of one person breaking an axle and that was because they didn't have their bolts tight so that wasn't a diff issue.

The people that have two ways and bash welded diffs are jealous that they spent 800 dollars more than i did and have the same result. After all your frame is welded together and you don't say that's ghetto.

Dont do it its going to be a waste of your time and money

Okay, the downside to a welded diff is chirping tires when making sharp turns, but still easy to control the car, but also makes drifting a lot more fun. Makes since. Did you pay someone to weld yours or did you do it yourself?