Some 5 speed swap questions

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
78mechanicalflower
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Aug 16, 2020 7:44 am
Car: 1989 Nissan S13 240SX

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So many dang questions.

Where do I get the bolt to attach clutch pedal to clutch master cylinder? I heard OEM is the only way to go for that. Do I get it from the dealership?

Also, the pilot bearing. Get that from dealership too or will one from O'reillys work if they even have one?

And the throw out bearing. Where to get a good one, and are there any videos on how to replace it that are good? I've never changed one out.

Should I buy ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts? I'll be at 350rwhp.

Thanks so much, folks. I'm at such a loss in this build. It's over my head. Big learning experience. Thanks in advance for all help.

My car is an '89 coupe with a ka24det going in it eventually from a '91 with a '95 ecu tuned by Enthralpy.
Last edited by Rogue One on Sat Aug 22, 2020 11:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Moved to correct forum


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NukeKS14
Posts: 310
Joined: Wed Apr 10, 2019 2:50 pm
Car: 1995 240SX SE - KA24DE-T
AC Cobra Mk IV Rep.
2020 Civic Si

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Hi, welcome to the forums.

The part is called a pilot bushing, not bearing. They can be found at all parts stores, I just bought an SKF branded one from Advance and replaced mine about a month ago. Good brands to use for the throwout bearing are SKF, Timken, Koyo, and Nissan OEM. They can also be purchased at Rock Auto or most local parts stores (Oreiley's Advance, Autozone, Napa) Most also rent a slide hammer and pilot bushing removal tool as well, FYI. I replace the bushing whenever I replace a clutch along with the throwout bearing. Make sure you use some good axle grease and lube the pivot ball liberally before you install the clutch fork. I lube the input shaft as well but be sparing, a very light coating is plenty.

For the video you want of the throw out bearing installation.
https://lmgtfy.com/?q=240sx+throw+out+b ... eplacement

I don't think it's necessary to use ARP clutch\flywheel bolts, but having said that, I run them on my KA-T. The most important part is that you torque the bolts correctly and in proper sequence. I torque most bolts in stages so that it gets applied more evenly, and in thirds, so for example if the torque spec were 100 ft/lbs, I'd go to 30-35 first pass on all bolts, then 65-70 on second, then 100 on final pass.

https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/use-n ... abase.html
Grab an FSM that this site generously hosts and keep it near and dear. It has all of the torque specs for your car listed in parentheses below each nut/bolt in the exploded view.

The part you're looking for on the clutch pedal is called a pin clevis. It's not a bolt.

Image

on that picture it's #46540A. The part number is 46123-H850A

You can get that and the clip that holds it from a dealership or one of the many online stores that sell Nissan parts like Courtesy.

I found one for $2.50 here;
https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/n ... 2=&filter=()

78mechanicalflower
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Aug 16, 2020 7:44 am
Car: 1989 Nissan S13 240SX

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If it anyone hasn't told you lately, you're awesome. Thanks for help! I'm sure this will get me much further along.

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NukeKS14
Posts: 310
Joined: Wed Apr 10, 2019 2:50 pm
Car: 1995 240SX SE - KA24DE-T
AC Cobra Mk IV Rep.
2020 Civic Si

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Thanks.

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