Some 4x4 Questions

[RedDragun]

So I have owned a 2wd HB for some time now... but I wanted something that will handle the offroad better; I bought a 4wd Nissan HB, with the 4 cylinder KA24E. Now, I have plans to turbo this one in the near future, but before I do I have some questions on transmissions and differentials.

Now I know people have done RB25 transmission swaps to KA engines before, but will the RB26 transmission work for my 4x4? Is there any transmission that will bolt up and allow me to keep my 4wd, but be able to handle about 400whp and alot of abuse?

I was driving up a snow pile today, and I kept getting stuck because it would just diff out to one tire (per front and back ends). What are some good differential options for this truck? I know the front is the tiny R180A, and the rear is the C200, but is there a way to make these limited slip? These need to be bulletproof as well.

I'm planning on going with an ACT clutch for a 280z (should fit right?) which should handle anything I choose to throw at it.

Are the front axles a week link? What should I be upgrading for big power and hard driving?

Thanks all!

[rizzobc]

Hey man I'm not sure about the 4x4, but I think the 400 hp is a bit off. I here tail of only getting about 300-350 max with alot of work done to the engine. I mean if you have the money to put into it go for it but if you are looking for low budget with little work done to the stock motor you are not going to get that much out of it. If you do the 400 set up you are going to need to put alot of work into the diffs to make sure it isn't going to grenade on you. That is alot of power to subject those parts to. But as they say "All it thats is money". Good luck and keep us posted.

[seang]

See the axle info sticky at top of forum.

I don't know that the RB26 transmission will fit.

The stock transmission will blow if you beat the s*** out of it, not to say that it can't take some power, but if you thrash it, it's will eventually break.

I heard from a turbo'd 4x4 owner that he never broke a transfer case, but he went through like 3 transmissions, and they weren't cheap to replace.

I I were doing a turbo, I would want to go through the transmission and replace all the bearings - you might expect some worn synchros or a broken shifter fork as well. Doing this would help to increase transmission life, because it's usually a bearing that fails causing the countershaft to snap, and in some cases, breaking the case itself.

[RedDragun]

I saw the sticky, but it doesn't really give a cut and clear answer on what LSD i need for my truck (front and rear).

Is the 4x4 KA24 transmission the same as the 2wd KA24 transmission? If so, what would stop me from doing the VG (Z32) transmission swap? This should give me better gear ratios for a turbo setup and should still be geared really short in 4 low.

As far as making the power, that's not the issue. A decent volume turbo setup at low boost will get me there on a stock engine and should last a while on a good tune.

[rizzobc]

No the 2wd transmission is not the same as the 4x4 transmission. I think that should speek for its self...4x4 is a transfer case so you can have 4x4. And I really hope you kow what you are doing with the turbo thing, cuz one little thing wrong with the set up and it will be lights out for the HB. Like is said deep pockets and you do anything.

[RedDragun]

Like I said, I'm not worried about the engine. If the stock one goes, who cares. I'll build an engine. That's not my concern at all. With that said, I am running a volume turbo setup, so low boost (~10psi) and big turbo. With a good tune (I have experience with boosted cars, and I know these engines hate any sort of detonation at any boost level). I will be keeping the AFR's between 11.5:1 to 11.8:1 for safety. I feel that this will be about right.

I will just rebuild my current transmission and not slam gears like I do in my Sentra. Rolling into power and shifting slowly off throttle should be okay on the transmission correct?

[Desert Rat]

The Nissan Tcase is a married case, so you need a 4x4 trans to bolt up to it.

The C200 is plenty strong...I wouldn't worry about breaking it. The R180 front is also in a cast housing and is plenty strong. The halfshafts will go before the diff will.

As for traction devices, your only option out back in the aftermarket is an ARB air locker. Figure on $700 for the locker, another $200 for a compressor, and if you can't do a full diff carrier install and the drilling/tapping on the diff housing, figure another $300 to install at a shop if you do the compressor yourself.

There are no traction devices available for the R180 front.

[RedDragun]

Seeing as I don't use 4x4 very often, would it be advisable to weld the front diff to "lock" it? I only use it for off-roading purposes.

Also, I found this for a 240sx R200 diff http://estore.websitepros.com/...o=710

In the sticky above, it says that the parts for the R200 and C200 diffs are the same, so this should work shouldn't it?

[Desert Rat]

I wouldn't weld the front, especially if you retain the auto hubs. It's very difficult to turn in 4wd with a locked up front. That's why selectable lockers like ARBs are so popular with the 4x4 crowd. If you had manual hubs, you could unlock a hub to get it around turns (essentially you're in 3wd then)

[RedDragun]

Mine has manual hubs on it, and I hardly ever use the 4wd (only for climbing stuff, mudding, and straight line romping). So for me, would welding the front be an alright idea? Is it going to have and adverse affect when the car is in 2wd mode (I doubt it does but I might as well ask).

Also, will that friction LSD for a 240sx R200 diff work in a C200 diff? Both are open factory diffs (well, the one the FLSD is designed for is).

Who makes a good factory replacement CV shaft? Does Raxle have any? I used those on my 11 second Sentra and they have held up just fine.

As far as rebuilding the stock transmission, what is an acceptable rate for a shop to do this? I may try to do it myself if the price is too high (if I can find a rebuild kit)...

[rizzobc]

Wow, this guy asks questons and we answer them and I guess they aren't the answers that he doesn't want to hear so he thinks that he knows it all, but yet he still asks stupid questions that WE ALREADY ANSWERED! So, I guess ,Desert Rat, he must think that you don't know what you are talking about. I say to hell with this dude and let him figure it out on his own. I mean he doesn't want to listen to anyone else.

[RedDragun]

This is why this forum pisses me off. People like you do not understand what I am asking. I asked questions again that were not originally answered; apparently that makes me stupid? I reiterated certain questions to gain more information, which is the point of this forum. If you could please just get out of my thread (I don't care how long you have been on this forum). When I saw your first post, I asked my self how someone could be so inept as to not answer any of my questions. I asked nothing about if the engine could handle the power, or how to make it. You said I need to beef up the diffs; congratulations, that was the point of this thread. My questions were asking about how I would strengthen the drivetrain.

I appreciate you letting me know that the 2wd and 4wd transmissions are not the same, I didn't know because I haven't looked at the transmission on my 4wd yet.

So yes, if me asking a question about something, and not receiving a response makes me stupid when I ask it again, then you are correct. If me asking about something further makes me stupid, then yes you are correct; however, the world doesn't operate in retard mode for people like you so none of your observations are valid.

[rizzobc]

Wow you are full of crap and oh yeah a f-ing cry baby. So if you hate this forum then pack up your little truck and go find some place else to go.

[RedDragun]

Oh look, you have still managed to answer only one of my questions in three of your posts. You really aren't very intelligent are you.

I have a better idea; how about you pack your stuff up, go back to school, and then come back to this thread in ten years (which is undoubtedly how long it will take you to get anywhere with an education).

[rizzobc]

blah blah blah...F.U.C.K.Y.O.U....

[Desert Rat]

Damn dude, if you don't like what the guy is asking in the thread, don't read it. There's nothing wrong with asking questions about a truck you don't know that much about..

OK...

LSD - I don't know if the R200 LSD will work in an C200 axle. I'm not sure why it wouldn't, as they are basically the same diff. See if you can get specs on the breakaway torque of that particular diff. The trouble with an LSD is that it doesn't fully lock - that's why the ARB is so much better for offroading. If you lock up the rear, you may be surprised at how well the truck goes in the rough that you might be happy leaving the front open.

Another option is finding a V6 front axle from a V6 pickup or WD21 pathfinder and bolting it in. You'd need offset mounting bushings to lower the diff about 5/8" of an inch along with a little grinding on the diff pumpkin and rolling the edge of the oil pan a bit for clearance, but that's a possibility. Spencer Low Racing used to sell those drop kits, but they went tits up. I think there's another outfit making them now....google may be your friend.

Even with manuals and a welded front, I'd give it some serious thought. Like I said, you CAN'T hardly turn it when the front is locked, and when you do, something has to give - either traction on one wheel, or truck parts.

I'm not sure what's out there for aftermarket halfshafts. The stock ones are pretty strong though provided you keep them working within reasonable angles.

On a trans rebuild, it's mostly labor. On a 4x4 the trans is a pain to get out since you have to pull it and the Transfer case....as well as the torsion bar crossmember. Shop around and look for a place that sells rebuilt transmissions and can take a core....I think a reasonable wrench can drop/replace one, and since the bulk of the labor is the removal/installation, you'd still save some bucks.