Solid Engine Mounts?

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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300Plus
Posts: 700
Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2005 8:11 pm
Car: 1995 S14 w/ Rb25det Series II

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Hey we got my motor dropped in Saturday (I'll have pics up later) we dropped it in just to take measurements for the intake and mounts. First let me say WOW how tight of a squeeze that was, the transmission is as long as the engine bay But we got it in. It is coming back out for me to paint the engine bay (what fun thats going to be) and a few other little details. But the question is... We are planning on making the mounts out of solid metal no rubber or urethane (which is what nate has on his setup) I was just wondering everyones thoughts on this? He hasn't had any problems as far as frame rails bending or cracking so i assume my only concern would be a horrible shake, but i doubt that would happen with a smooth running motor?!? We used the R33 Crossmember and we're talking about an s14.

Instead does anyone have an idea of how to use the stock KA mounts on the R33 crossmember or get new Rb mounts (one of mine is broken) and just make a bracket to pull the mounts farther back and lower ? any ideas welcome
Modified by 300Plus at 9:06 AM 8/1/2005


goofynick6
Posts: 1216
Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2004 9:58 am
Car: 1995 S14.5 RB20DET

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Will be noisy, filled with vibrations, and not good for any kind of street car, but great for track and precise shifting at high rpms.

wawazat8402
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Joined: Sun Sep 26, 2004 10:08 am
Car: 89 Sil80- RB25DET

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The shake is usually only noticeable at idle. It makes the car feel much better though, IMO. Shifts will be more solid like Goofynick said.

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300Plus
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Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2005 8:11 pm
Car: 1995 S14 w/ Rb25det Series II

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I would think Idle would be my only probably but wanted to see what everyone's opinion is. This wasn't planned for performance gains. just the only option I could think of with the r33 X member

Bluefire
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What are you planning for the car? Expected HP? More than likely if your looking for some decent power and plan on tracking the car, you will benefit highly from getting the chassis caged and spot/stitch welded. I have seen high power sr's with stock mounts breaking stock spotwelds and seams

-Bluefire

Mr.Sandman
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Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2005 1:43 pm
Car: 1993 240sx coupe

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if your like me, redlining that bad boy everytime...yes its worth it...just a little virbration thats all, you'll get use to it...just dont F it up...

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300Plus
Posts: 700
Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2005 8:11 pm
Car: 1995 S14 w/ Rb25det Series II

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I'm going for a streetable car that is comfortable to drive daily (i can take a little shake) and hp wise I might stop at 450 (for a month or two lol) I will have a roll cage just because I have someone who wants to make it, It will come in handy down the road (to meet track requirements) Plus I'm removing the Air bags so its nice to have the added protection. So from those that have the solid mount setup... its not bad?

SillyRB
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Joined: Mon Aug 09, 2004 7:02 pm

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HONESTLY on this TOPIC, not many people with the RB's have Solid Motor mounts. I went to a Solid motor mount set up about 2 months ago. and i LOVE it, the vibrations are NEXT to NONE --> with the added weight on an Inline 6. Just make sure you get your driveshaft balanced or properly sized depending of the type of driveshaft you are using. You dont feel the slack in the motor when driving around with the solid mm. so +1 for solid mounts.

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300Plus
Posts: 700
Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2005 8:11 pm
Car: 1995 S14 w/ Rb25det Series II

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great to know! Nate is going to make me a pne piece and I'll take it to be balanced if need, I've confident in his welding skills and he is pushin 587 on his and never had it balanced. But I bet when you rev it you can feel it torqe the car to one side. Hey SillyRB didn't you contact nate about making u a intake mani?

SillyRB
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Joined: Mon Aug 09, 2004 7:02 pm

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300Plus wrote: Hey SillyRB didn't you contact nate about making u a intake mani?
Yes i did contact him about a few things, which were mainly oil Pump related. I did not ask him about the intake manifold as i have had a greddy one for a while.

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300Plus
Posts: 700
Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2005 8:11 pm
Car: 1995 S14 w/ Rb25det Series II

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Oh thats right he told me about that. are you located near North Florida? Is anyone else?

SillyRB
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300Plus wrote:Oh thats right he told me about that. are you located near North Florida? Is anyone else?
Im in Central FloridaThe UCF Orlando area, and you ? do you ever come down hear

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300Plus
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Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2005 8:11 pm
Car: 1995 S14 w/ Rb25det Series II

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Up here in Tallahassee FL. My brother lives in Orlando. I might have to make a trip down there by the end of the year. Do u ever make it up this far north?

SillyRB
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NO not unless i have
300Plus wrote:Up here in Tallahassee FL. My brother lives in Orlando. I might have to make a trip down there by the end of the year. Do u ever make it up this far north?


No not really, I came about 2 years ago. That was the last time, you should come down to Orlando. Check it out. How is the street Scene up in Tallhassee.

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Kansei240sx
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Ok, i am pretty sure when i get the RB25DET in that im going to be using the RB crossmember, but im not sure, If i went to go make solid mounts using the KA crossmember (Possible?) Would using solid mounts be safe? And would the KA crossmember be able to support it without cracking and or shattering? If not should i got with Tophat mounts or Mckinney mounts, Either way if i can do solid mounts this could help me out alot, thanks in return

-Jesse

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300Plus
Posts: 700
Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2005 8:11 pm
Car: 1995 S14 w/ Rb25det Series II

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I think no matter what if you use the KA cross memeber you will need very detailed mounts to relocate the motor mounts. I'm using the R33 cross memeber with solid mounts, very easy to make. I will give my impressions when I get everything in and running.

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GripR
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Car: 92 miata

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i have cusco motor mounts and peak performance transmission mount bushing... (not installed) wouldn't solid mounts tear up the chasis up a little if not spot welded?


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