SOHC timing chains?

[pmkls2]

Ok I have just a couple of general questions about KA24E timing chains. First, would any of youguys use an AutoZone chain kit instead of genuine Nissan? I have been pricing the parts since I think its getting about time to change mine and I have found a kit at autozone that includes the chain,gears, guides, and tensioner all for about $81, compared to $162 at the local Nissan dealership. Secondly, how bad are they to change? They dont look too bad. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

[Nismo1182]

Theres only one chain on the sohc, not 3 like the dohc. If you dont plan on keeping the engine (i.e swap) then get the autozone kit.

If your pretty good with mechanics its not to bad, basically the front part of the motor has to come off.

[powerdrifter]

It's not a difficult job to do, just a bit time consuming. I'm doing two 240SX's this weekend for the same thing. Aftermarket tensioners use an old design which breaks into pieces very easily and gets chewed up by the timing chain gear sprocket on the crankshaft, which sends the tiny pieces merrily down into the oil strainer. If you plan on driving the car hard or abit aggressive, go with the NISSAN part. They have an new, updated design which is beefier and last A LOT LONGER than aftermarket. Trust me, you want the NISSAN one. email me with any questions.

[pmkls2]

Thanks fr the info I will take your advice. I'll e-mail ya if I have any questions.

[KSee777]

Is it normal that the left side of the chain is tight and the right side is loose? (looking from the front of the car.

[powerdrifter]

Yeah, it's fine. The tensioner will take up the slack once the car is on and you build up oil pressure.

True JDM is the true path to performance!

[email protected]'89 NISSAN 240SX, '90 KA24E SOHC,5-spd conversion,'96 180sx turbo fuel pump,port & polished these:12v head (in/exh), MAF sensor (main inlet only), air filter adapter, throttle body, intake plenum, intake manifold, removed SCV valves (2nd butterflies) Injen intake, HKS SuperMega Flow Filter, HotShot Headers (w/ thermotec exh. wrap to cat-back exh. canister), custom 60mm straight exhaust (JDM), HKS Superlow Form Springs, KYB AGX shocks (adj.4/8), FR/RR strut bars, Nismo Chassis brace, Random Tech High Flow cat., custom 2.5" JDM style exhaust,HyperGround Wire System, Magnecor 8.5mm wires, Splitfire 3xPlatinum plugs, Nismo Radiator Cap (18psi/1.3bar), S13 VLSD, ENDLESS brake pads, Jun Lightweight Flywheel, Centerforce Dual Friction clutch,Optima Battery, Bomex body kit, about to be the 1st, FIRST! in the US with a JDM Ikeya Formula Complete body kit...

[180fan]

I'll be doing a timing chain job soon enough as well. I've a SOHC and just got the parts I need from courtesy parts. I'd recommend their kit unless you've done some of it recently. I found to my surprise that the crank pulley nut is a whopping 28mm. I've yet to find out what size the cam sproket nut is. But before diving deeper into this job, I too have a few questions. Here's what I know so far though (correct me if I'm wrong and any suggestions would be appreciated).

SOHC

1. Drain coolant and motor oil2. pull off extra pulleys, disconnect ps pump from block, and remove fan clutch.3. take off valve cover and insert something into the cam sproket to hold it in place while attempting to pop off the nut for the crank pulley4. remove oil pump (located at bottom of engine and connects to distributor through a gear on the inside of engine)5. remove crank pulley and remove the first 4 to 6 bolts of oil pan to pop off the front engine cover.6. remove tensioner on left side (if facing engine) and remove the chain guide. Using allen wrenches, losen bolts on right side guide and remove guide.7. remove chain8. make sure the mark on the cam sprocket and the mark on the crank sproket align with the silver links.9. install guides and tensioner (remove pin holding the tensioner's pin in place)10. replace oil seals on block and crank oil seal with new ones11. put gasket around front engine cover and put back on engine (now would be a good time to replace thermo and water pump)12. rebolt everything in place13. put the oil pump back in place (any tips on this? I've tried it on an engine that was pulled out and it was a pain to make sure it was still in the right place let alone in an engine that'll still be in my car)14. check to make sure at TDC (distributor and crank)15. put valve cover back on16. refill coolant and motor oil

does this sound about right or am I missing some important step or detail?

[powerdrifter]

Sounds about right. You probably won't follow this exactly, but once you get started you'll have it fresh in your mind. The cam bolt is 24mm. Remember, DO NOT let anything fall into the oil pan. anything that does will go straint to the oil strainer and possible block the oil flow. Then you'll have a valve ticking problem like some of us have had to deal with (there's a thread posted here somewhere).

[180fan]

Hmm well I hit another snag, well I've managed to basically strip the front end of the engine of anything that's been bolted in, but I can't seem to get the cover off. Any tips on how to get the cover off? BTW I've still got the head on, and also the oil pan is still there, just that the first 6 bolts have been removed. I've thought about taking a knife to the seam, but I don't want to risk damaging the machined surface. Any ideas or tips or am I just being paranoid?

thanks in advance

[NISTECH]

you need to pull the pan to remove the oil pick up tube from the front cover

[powerdrifter]

make sure you get ALL the long front cover bolts off. Be very careful. also check that the bolts from the oil pan and the head are off the front cover. Use can use a pry bar but you have to make sure all the bolts are off or you'll break the front cover. It's made of light aluminum and breaks very easily.

[lbrowne]

I did this project myself, the thread I had going was made a sticky for a reason, lots of good info in it.

http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....in%2A

[180fan]

So as long as the bolts from the head (I counted 2 that looked like they went down from the head to the front engine cover) and the 4 or 6 bolts located on the oil pan closest to the front of the engine need to come out then I can pry at the front cover. Where do you suggest I start prying from on the engine? I've looked around the front cover and haven't found too much space for leverage to pop the front off.

lbrowne thanks for the thread. I'm still somewhat not clear on the punchmarks on the oil pump and distributor. From my understanding, as long as I've got to set the distributor so it's pointed at 4 o'clock or with one of those side fin things pointing at the edge of that first of 4 markings that are on the top most side of the distributor that should be fine for the distributor.

The cam should have the knock pin set at 12 o'clock and the crank pully should be set to the second mark or 0 degrees (also painted red).

Now the oil pump it needs the punchmark on the long rod extension with the gear on it to match up with the oil hole on the oil pump itself. With that adjusted it should slide right into the distributor assuming that I've got the oil pump aligned correctly.

also from the thread the crank pulley bolt is 27mm? I used a 28mm on the spare engine I've got lying around and it seemed to be the right socket.

Ah I just caught my mistake on paper. There are 4 bolts holding the cover to the head. 2 more on the side. Ha ha ha silly me.

[robertwb70]

you need to pull the pan to remove the oil pick up tube from the front cover

*****not on the KA-24E*****which is what he is working on