SOHC rebuild, got spark and fuel, timings prolly off

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gogg
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Well even though Im not going turbo just yet, I figured this would be the best place for this question since most KA-ET guys rebuild their motor. Anyway when the motor went togethar everything was lined up, the notch on the crankshaft was at 12 o'clock and the notch on the cam gear was at 12 o'clock. The distributer was marked when we took it off and it was close if not back to where it was before (cyl #1 @ TDC). The motor cranks and gets fuel and spark but won't run. It can kinda run extremely rich with me mashing the gas and it will rev to like 1k-2k rpms and not go any higher. I'm assuming the timing is off somehow but I'm not sure where to start. Any help is appreciated.


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Import_Ant
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timing the SOHC can be a pain in the ***, basically it's going to involve removing the oil pump to reclock the timing shaft and, in turn, distributor. I'll see if i can snap you some pics tonight while I'm out at the garage but the distributor is run off of a half-moon key and can only be installed one way, I'm sure you're already aware of that though. I have one of my SOHC Ka's clocked right, I'll position the crank and snap a shot of the distributor for you at TDC, as I recall I did a fair amount of guessing, checking, and comparing before I reinstalled the oil pump.

you'll have to reclock your oil pump with a flathead screwdriver once you get the timing shaft installed correctly as well.

Sounds fun right? it's not really as had as I'm making it out to be. pics will help you alot so I'll hurry up with that.

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gogg
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yea im working on all this right now... pics would be great!!!

one quick question though, if the crank is at TDC the cams can be at one of two TDCs right? If so will this matter?
Modified by gogg at 7:47 PM 6/27/2006

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wild_maxx
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gogg wrote:yea im working on all this right now... pics would be great!!!

one quick question though, if the crank is at TDC the cams can be at one of two TDCs right? If so will this matter?

Modified by gogg at 7:47 PM 6/27/2006
CAM can only be at one tdc. Get the key at 12 0'clock and your good there. Here is a shot of the oil pump drive spindle that you have to line up.

Here you can see the dot on the spindle that HAS to align with the divot in the oil pump. I always do the oil pump and spindle first then check it to see the angle on the half moon... then if it looks correct stab the dist. in there and see if it runs better. GOOD LUCK... YOU WILL NEED IT!

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gogg
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Did the oil pump trick and it fired right up!

Only question is i think I'm one chain link to the left of 12 o'clock on the cam gear. and the car backfires like a mofo, could this be the reason?

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wild_maxx
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yeah that would make it retarted and run rich. Just loosen the cam bolt and rotate the cam sproket (with chain off) one tooth over in the correct direction.

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Import_Ant
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I dont think you can just rotate the cam sprocket, it's on a woodruff-type key attached to the cam. he'll have to remove the tensioner and jump it a tooth to get it right. It's not too hard to pull the timing cover and redo the chain with the motor in the car. just have patience and you can get it. Sorry about the delay on pictures but it seems like you have the distributor issue solved so I wont bother w/ them at this point.

go download a FSM from http://www.carfiche.com while you're at it. they kick *** when you need info like this and dont have NICO handy

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gogg
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Import_Ant wrote:I dont think you can just rotate the cam sprocket, it's on a woodruff-type key attached to the cam. he'll have to remove the tensioner and jump it a tooth to get it right. It's not too hard to pull the timing cover and redo the chain with the motor in the car. just have patience and you can get it. Sorry about the delay on pictures but it seems like you have the distributor issue solved so I wont bother w/ them at this point.

go download a FSM from http://www.carfiche.com while you're at it. they kick *** when you need info like this and dont have NICO handy
Dont think so... I've done it before without removing the tensioner. You put the crank to TDC by hand turning then take off the valve cover. Take off the cam gear bolt then pop off the cam gear and dont let the chain fall. Put the bolt back on without the gear and turn till it gets where i want it 12 o'clock (which would be a perfect right angle with the top of the valve cover mating surface right??) then pop the gear back on and the chain and put the bolt back on and torque to like 100 something ft. lbs.

Thats what im doing, someone correct me if im wrong.

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wild_maxx
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thats the way i did it before. It will work.

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Import_Ant
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sorry, I misunderstood what you were trying to say, I thought you were talking about rotating the cam gear on the camshaft, not removing it to reduce the tension and then skip the chain.

Sorry I was tired last night yeah that works fine. I was stuck on the logic that there's only one way to install the cam gear on the camshaft because of the key on it. carry on I'm going to get out of this one before I cause any more confusion.


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