SOHC oil pump removal and inspection

[Import_Ant]

Modified by Import_Ant at 7:58 PM 8/22/2005

[Import_Ant]

still working on the pictures and finer details but I'll get that up soon, Even if i have to go drag that tempo out of my garage by hand.

[onosqv]

I'm not much of a reading person, hehehe - more visual learning.

Ok, firstly - tdc of compression stroke - there is only 1 tdc right, so that would make this repetitive? just making sure.

Secondly, we could skip the "inspection" step if we are just upgrading to the 280z pump?

Of course, instructions w/ your actual pictures would be great, so waiting on those...

So everything just "pulls out" after the distributor is removed & those couple bolts?

Thanks dood.

[Import_Ant]

yeah TDC is the top of the compression stroke BDC is the bottom dead center.

I thought to include inspection just for the heck of it because it has info about the oil pump and a breakdown of its parts. the inspection is only if you suspect your oil pump is bad and you want to pull it and do a thorough inspection. If you're completely replacing the oil pump it is worthless to inspect it.

just remove the distributor cap at first. The distributor is running off of the same shaft as the oil pump (labled the Drive Spindle). You just have to set the engine to TDC and it's easy to distinguish TDC from BDC by looking at the direction of the rotor. The rotor will be pointing at the button on the rotor cap for cylinder 1. after you remove the distributor at this point, dont screw with the rotor!

I have Saturday off and I'll get this coming ASAP.


Modified by Import_Ant at 10:23 PM 2/3/2006

[Import_Ant]

'The Paperweight'

Start off by setting timing to TDC. The timing marks are easy to read (they're notched into the crank pulley and TDC is colored a burnt orange color)

Check the distributor as well just to make sure you are truly on the compression stroke.(I Think it would be easier to remove the distributor and use a magnet to hold the timing shaft in, if you're just replacing/removing the oil pump. I'll save a good amount of time and guesswork when reinstalling the oil pump. The shaft is just held in by gravity/oil pump so when you remove the oil pump it's going to fall out and you'll have to make sure you get it re-installed correctly or your timing will be off.)

These are the 4 bolts you need to remove to get the oil pump out. 2 are longer than the others. Use a 12mm socket, they come out without much effort at all.

With the oil pump out you can see the shaft comes out by itself. this is what needs to be reinstalled correctly to ensure the timing is right. on the distributor shaft end there is a slot that only allows it to fit on the distributor 1 way. thankfully this makes things a bit easier. If you took my advice earlier and pulled the distributor and magnetized this timing shaft in, you wont be looking at it and will be saving yourself a good deal of trouble The oil-pump's drive end of the shaft is like a standard screwdriver. When you re-install the new oil pump you don't have to worry about clocking it, just make sure the drive fits into the slot on the oil pump. you should be able to rotate it with a large, standard screwdriver. just remember not to force it when you re-install it (if you dont toy with the old oil pump you can use the orientation of the slot as a refrence)

here is a shot looking up into the engine. you can see the guide for the timing shaft, you can also see the worm gear on the crank that turns it. all of that chocolate milk looking stuff is SUPPOSED to be oil. (blown headgaskets tend to do that heh.)

After you reinstall it, it would be a good idea to remove the wire from the ignition coil to the distributor and crank the motor over a few times to prime the pump. Also, after running the motor you'll need to time it to make sure you're not a tooth off on the drive shaft as well.

Any other requests for pictures I should be able to entertain. I took quite a few more than I am showing here (trying to keep it simple)

Enjoy!-Aaron

[onosqv]

U ARE THE MAN!

That is so much more informative than the 3 lines that were written in the FSM. haha.

My only real question:

You need to magnetize the shaft before pulling the distributor/etc? If so, any size/strength magnet? just straigt up connected to the cap?

If I don't magnetize it, when pulling the distributor/pump from the block, will the spindle just not go w/ it or will it still be connected but fall off after the pump is separated from distributor?

Thanks for putting up w/ my stupid questions

[Import_Ant]

Hey thanks Everyone that has a thirst for knowledge should be given drink.

My only real question:

You need to magnetize the shaft before pulling the distributor/etc? If so, any size/strength magnet? just straigt up connected to the cap?

If I don't magnetize it, when pulling the distributor/pump from the block, will the spindle just not go w/ it or will it still be connected but fall off after the pump is separated from distributor?

I'll have to take a picture but I think I worded it funny. What I was trying to say about the shaft was I would advise someone to remove the distributor all together. then get a small magnet (there are telescoping magnets like this one that would work best:)

After the distributor is removed, put the magnet down in the hole and hold the drive shaft in place w/ the magnet so it doesnt fall out when you remove the oil pump. that way you dont have to worry about reinstalling the shaft correctly. when you get the new oil pump back in, you can reinstall the distributor and know that your timing is set up correctly and just have some minor adjusting to do with a timing light.

If you dont find a way to hold the shaft in place it'll just fall out when you remove the oil pump. it's not a big deal it can just be a bit time consuming trying to reinstall it correctly. But hey that's why we set the motor to TDC before we start

[DRIFTEADOR]

*bookmarked*

thanks, I'll need this when I decide to build

[Import_Ant]

very welcome. Im working on a write up for reinstalling the oil-pump shaft so you can verify it's in correctly if you have to remove it altogether (i.e. when you are rebuilding the motor) hopefully I'll find a shortcut or some way to make it easier.