I finnaly cranked the car over (after fuelcanister remowall , egr and intake buterflies remowall with fresh gasket set and timing kit etc.) bolted my turbo and intercooler tried starting:
it somewhat starts but shakes stumbles and just won't run without me gasing it and with that it only rev's to 2200 rpm tops before dying off on me well i can tell that i have timing issues but is it the mechanial/ or ignition timing???
when i turn distributor all the way to the right (advancing the ignition timing to my knoweledge ) it stambles a bit less and seems to rev a lil higher like to 2800rpm before dying based on that i am thinking that i put my oil pump a tooth behind or 2 . if it was mechanical timing i assume i be backfiring into the intercooler piping am i right ??
to what i know u can't tell if mech timing is right unless u pull the timing cover off . or is there any other way ? also i got shocked moving distibutor around do i have a bad ground somewhere ? and could that be cousing my issues ?
suggestiuons ?ideas? help :lol:
sohc ka misbehavin'
You do NOT have to pull the timing cover off to use a timing light. All you have to do is clip it to the #1 spark plug wire, give it power, and point it at the crank pulley. What you are looking for is to get the timing marks on the pulley to line up with the pin on the lower timing cover.
It sounds like you have a timing issue. Turning the distribuitor is for FINE TUNING the timing only. If you are way out on the timing (which it seems you are), you need to pull the distribuitor back out and put it back in right- you are probably off by one or more teeth on the end of the distribuitor shaft. Its easy to make this mistake, and often only trial and error will find you the exact right tooth that you need. Keep at it, and use that timing light!
It sounds like you have a timing issue. Turning the distribuitor is for FINE TUNING the timing only. If you are way out on the timing (which it seems you are), you need to pull the distribuitor back out and put it back in right- you are probably off by one or more teeth on the end of the distribuitor shaft. Its easy to make this mistake, and often only trial and error will find you the exact right tooth that you need. Keep at it, and use that timing light!
Re: (fiznat)
hmm but how do i know that my mech timing is ok vs ignition timing i mean sure i can take valve cover off turn cam to 12 oclock hmm is it 12 or has to point to the arrow at cam bearing which is like 1 ??? i guess from there just pulll distributor and oil pump , realign the marks and put it all back together than use timing light to get on the dot. but how do i know that i am on real tdc when i set ignition timing right not 1 crank sproket tooth away down there since i can't see if my crank is pointing at 12 or just a bit off???
Okay, mechanical timing:
You should have a compression tester by now. Pop off the gauge part of it and screw in the hose only to your #1 cyl. Start cranking the engine slowly by hand with your (wet) thumb over the other end of the hose. Through the rotation of the engine you will feel two times where air is bieng forced up and out of the hose. One is TDC between exhaust and intake stroke (valves open), and one is TDC during the compression stroke (valves closed). You are looking for TDC during the compression stroke. You can usually tell the difference between these two because the compression stroke will be forcing air much harder at you (because through the hose is the only way the air can go since the valves are closed), TDC during the exhaust stroke will feel only a very light pressure. You could also make this determination by listening to the end of the hose and trying to determine when more air is coming out.
Once you have found TDC for the compression stroke, take a look at your crank pulley. You should be right about on the zero timing mark (probably not exactly since EXACT TDC will be tough to determine by this method). If those marks are lined up, your "mechanical timing" is correct.
For electrical (spark) timing, simply use a timing light and try to get the timing mark to line up with the 20 degree mark during idle. You will probably have to fiddle with the distribuitor alot, but line it up correctly when you install it and you will most likely be very close. If you cant seem to get the engine started, try lining up the timing marks at zero while the engine is cranking (by turining the distrubuitor), and then going for the full 20 degrees once you can get the engine to start.
Good luck!
You should have a compression tester by now. Pop off the gauge part of it and screw in the hose only to your #1 cyl. Start cranking the engine slowly by hand with your (wet) thumb over the other end of the hose. Through the rotation of the engine you will feel two times where air is bieng forced up and out of the hose. One is TDC between exhaust and intake stroke (valves open), and one is TDC during the compression stroke (valves closed). You are looking for TDC during the compression stroke. You can usually tell the difference between these two because the compression stroke will be forcing air much harder at you (because through the hose is the only way the air can go since the valves are closed), TDC during the exhaust stroke will feel only a very light pressure. You could also make this determination by listening to the end of the hose and trying to determine when more air is coming out.
Once you have found TDC for the compression stroke, take a look at your crank pulley. You should be right about on the zero timing mark (probably not exactly since EXACT TDC will be tough to determine by this method). If those marks are lined up, your "mechanical timing" is correct.
For electrical (spark) timing, simply use a timing light and try to get the timing mark to line up with the 20 degree mark during idle. You will probably have to fiddle with the distribuitor alot, but line it up correctly when you install it and you will most likely be very close. If you cant seem to get the engine started, try lining up the timing marks at zero while the engine is cranking (by turining the distrubuitor), and then going for the full 20 degrees once you can get the engine to start.
Good luck!