Time to start documenting my install. So far I have ran my power and ground (one ought welding cable), rca signal cables (4 runs - 8 channels), and my speaker wire (14 ga x 3 for each side).

Regrettably, I had to run the power and ground through part of my wheel well in order to gain access to the cabin. I have purchased split loom to provide further protection and plan on installing soon. I have no clearance issues with my 18in wheels.

I have fabricated birch door baffles for the Morel 8's in the doors and have them mounted. They are sealed with plastidip. I have my 3in TB bamboo midranges mounted in pvc endcaps and they are resting near the kickpanels, giving me the opportunity to try out on axis and off axis aiming.

My Morel tweets are not installed, and the same with my sub stage. Minimal sound deadening had been used so far (only between the door baffle and the door).

I appreciate any input, comments, suggestions, or criticisms of my work.

Ok now for pics:

looks like a quality audio install to me! keep em coming

Junya wrote:looks like a quality audio install to me! keep em coming

I agree!

However, depending on how much power you are running, that ground cable may be unnecessary. At one point I had just shy of 4000 watts in my J and had no problems grounding it to the body/frame of the car. Consequently, having that much bass shook the car half to hell and now half the interior parts of my car sound like a baby's rattler just sitting at idle so learn from me and be wise when making your choice on subwoofers.

Also, running the power cable along the passenger side of the car could have saved you a couple feet of wire and some $$$ since that cable was not cheap the last time I checked.

Keep up the good work!

That is quite excessive on the wiring in the engine bay. Why did you run it to the drivers side? You could have routed the cables on passenger side and saved about 8 ft of cable. I just took off the fender liner and drilled two holes in the chassis. Then ran two 1/0 gauge cables in to the car. You just pull up the carpet and look for the big holes. Fish the cable through and route it into the trunk.

I have my power wires on the passenger side and RCA on drivers side. I am running a 7" flip out touch screen which has 4 RCA outputs and I am using 3 for subwoofer, front and rear. In the trunk I have 2 amps. JL Audio 500W/1/v1 and a JL Audio 300/4/v2. Im using some old school MBQuart 6x9 with crossovers. Then modded the stock door speaker boxes to fit a 6.5" component speaker, Alpine SPR-60C. Got some of the a-pillar covers from a 94 since the 93 J30 didnt have tweeters in the a-pillar. Mounted the new tweeters in the speaker holder and music is much louder now.

I have the two 1/0 gauge cables because battery is in the trunk and have a common ground block in the rear and a power block that mounts to the fuse box.

That is quite excessive on the wiring in the engine bay. Why did you run it to the drivers side? You could have routed the cables on passenger side and saved about 8 ft of cable. I just took off the fender liner and drilled two holes in the chassis. Then ran two 1/0 gauge cables in to the car. You just pull up the carpet and look for the big holes. Fish the cable through and route it into the trunk.

I have my power wires on the passenger side and RCA on drivers side. I am running a 7" flip out touch screen which has 4 RCA outputs and I am using 3 for subwoofer, front and rear. In the trunk I have 2 amps. JL Audio 500W/1/v1 and a JL Audio 300/4/v2. Im using some old school MBQuart 6x9 with crossovers. Then modded the stock door speaker boxes to fit a 6.5" component speaker, Alpine SPR-60C. Got some of the a-pillar covers from a 94 since the 93 J30 didnt have tweeters in the a-pillar. Mounted the new tweeters in the speaker holder and music is much louder now.

I have the two 1/0 gauge cables because battery is in the trunk and have a common ground block in the rear and a power block that mounts to the fuse box.

I ran the power wire along the drivers side since I had already ran my speaker wire down the passenger side. This was to minimize the potential of introducing noise since my amplifiers are supposed capable of pulling 280 amps (manufacturer fusing recommendation).

I also just installed a high-output alternator. Its rated for 180amps @ 1,200 rpm. I can't remember the specific shop I bought the alternator from, but it was built using a Nissan stamped case. *Knocking on wood* I haven't had any issues with the non-oem alternator. I also added an 1 ought lead from the positive post on the alternator to my positive battery terminal.



I still experience headlight dimming, so I am going to upgrade a few grounds: the alternator case, each headlight, the battery to frame, and the battery to body.

May I add that my goal is not to ground pound down the street. I consider this a SQ setup with adequate headroom. All my amplifiers are older technology (class a/b) which are not nearly as efficient as the class D stuff sold today.

As of right now I have three amplifiers: Two Precision Power PC450's, and a Precision Power PC2350. The PC450's are 4 channel amplifiers producing 4x50w rms @ 4 ohms. Each of these guys have a 60 amp fuse. I have one of them bridged producing 2x200w rms @ 4 ohm for my Morel 8's. These are the midbass speakers mounted in the doors. The other PC450 is powering the the midrange which I now have mounted to the kick panels off-axis. I haven't really had any motivation to install my tweets because the midrange are handling the highs just fine, and I haven't even messed with the EQ yet!

The PC2350 produces 2x350w rms @ 4 ohms or 1400w rms mono @ 4 ohm. This BAMF is supposed to have 160amps of fusing, but I have a 150amp on it since they are easily obtainable.

I have added a temporary substage which consists of two 10's in a sealed pre-fab box. It is too cold so my fiberglassing is on hold until next spring.

My intent is what is considered a 3-way active setup with substage. 3 way meaning 3 speakers for each channel: a midbass, midrange, and tweeter. Active means that I have active crossovers. My headunit does all the processing, no passive crossovers. My current crossover settings are:

Sub stage 63hz w/ 18db slope - Lowpass (1400w)
Midbass 80-600hz w/24 and 18db slopes, respectively -Bandpass (200w x 2)
Midrange 700hz w/12db slope - Highpass (50w x 2)
+ I still have two 50w channels for when I get bored and add tweets later (speaker wire already ran)

I would like to say thank you to @swimshark. He went to the junkyard specifically to pull a set of 94+ a-pillars for me (yes the ones with the grill) and also a set of kick panels, so I was able to hack a set up and not worry about mucking up my only set. He boxed that up along with some other misc pieces and shipped it all to me in MN.

Finally, here's my most recent pics of the J:

Glad it worked out! Mine is still operating on only the battery since it is not running. You should do a ground job and add an extra ground and power to and from the alternator. I have a small ground block in the front and rear of my car to make sure they have a good connection to the battery.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio ... und-block/

I have had mine up enough that you can hear and feel in on other side of the house clearly and there is no dimming and flickering from my Optima Yellow Top that is approaching 6 years old.

I wasnt really going for loud beats but it kind of just happened. I made a sealed box for my 12" Kicker Comp. You can calculate the volume using this site. Hits much better and produces much deeper bass than the prefabbed box I bought from the store.

http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm

Haven't updated in a while. Made a fiberglass molded box for a SI to sit flush in the trunk side. I messed up on the driver side, as I got too greedy and tried to get max volume by going into each crevice. I had to destroy my mold in order to get it out. The passenger side turned out well after I paid to learn. I used water displacement to get correct volume. I skipped a few of the progress shots but you get the gist:

Also got my G35 wheels powder coated and the open spokes revealed my ugly looking rotor hubs... Had to fix that:

Finally, I have decided to give class D a try, as my lights would dim even with up high output alternator and just running two PC450s

Here is my amp rack progress:

Got my rack wired and installed... And kinda threw my trunk carpet and trim back in: