so im getting ready to do the timing chain

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
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SketchyRollin564
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im hearing some annoying *** noises that are coming from the timing chain rattling, or the guides or whatever. I read the upper guide isnt required and you can take that out and itl fix it. but my engine just rolled over to 169k, so im guessing its gonna be a good time to replace the timing chain itself?

I plan on going KA-T in the future, so id be doing it anyways. But since im doing this, is it just a good idea to do the whooooole timing kit all at once?

i dont know much about this stuff, im still learning, but i figured replacing the timing chain once im down there will be easy, since im already taking out the guide, which apparently is said to be a 3 hour job?


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zerepdivad
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SketchyRollin564 wrote:im hearing some annoying *** noises that are coming from the timing chain rattling, or the guides or whatever. I read the upper guide isnt required and you can take that out and itl fix it. but my engine just rolled over to 169k, so im guessing its gonna be a good time to replace the timing chain itself?

I plan on going KA-T in the future, so id be doing it anyways. But since im doing this, is it just a good idea to do the whooooole timing kit all at once?

i dont know much about this stuff, im still learning, but i figured replacing the timing chain once im down there will be easy, since im already taking out the guide, which apparently is said to be a 3 hour job?
I'd just go ahead and do the whole timing kit you might as well. Are you going to be doing it while it's in the car? I did mine in teh car and it honestly wasn't all that bad once you get all the crap out of the way. It's just time consuming. took me a few hours, to do the chains guides and tensioners. Although when i did my other motor out of the car it was a Lot easier. It is a pain to do though i had to drop the oil pan so i could get the lower timing cover out because of the oil pickup tube. good luck with it.

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SketchyRollin564
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Yeah i have no experience working on engines and crap, so idk how hard its gonna be, but i plan on doing it in the car if i can, and i guess spending a whole day on it

on a random side note, did a compression test on my car today, and i have 180 on all 4, so thats good

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zerepdivad
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SketchyRollin564 wrote:Yeah i have no experience working on engines and crap, so idk how hard its gonna be, but i plan on doing it in the car if i can, and i guess spending a whole day on it

on a random side note, did a compression test on my car today, and i have 180 on all 4, so thats good
yeah i'm sure you'll be fine regardless, 240's are pretty easy to work on. plan on spending at least a day on it maybe 2 if you haven't really worked on engines that much previously. if you have any questions i'm sure there's plenty here that will help.

and 180 on all 4 is VERY good!

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SketchyRollin564
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yeah, thats what im hearing (i dont know much about it)

is it cause the number 180 itself is a good number, or because the numbers are all the same, or both?

Vegascorbin
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Quick answer "BOTH" first you look for all to be close to the same. Then you look for high numbers. 180 is very good.

You did not say if you have the SOHC or the DOHC.

DOHC you can remove some of the guides. A search should provide more detailed info. (I have a SOHC so not sure for the DOHC)

On the SOHC you must retain the guides. Will take a few hours to replace the chain. Not that hard as long as you don't drop anything into the oil pan.

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SketchyRollin564
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it says i have a 95 under my name lol

so thats DE

i want to start slowly rebuilding it, but people are telling me if its my daily and i try to rebuild it, im either gonna have the car out of commission for a long *** time (not realiable daily lol) or im just gonna give up and sell it

people are telling me its better off to buy another ka and keep it in my garage on an engine hoist and just work on rebuilding that one and building that one up, that way i can swap it into my car once im done

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D-UNIT
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3 hours would be a dream. It took me , a toyota master tech , a chevy master tech ( my two best friends) , alot of beer and head scratching 11.5 hours. there was alot of wtfs , holy ****s and huh(s) flying around , but if I had to do it again maybe 3.5 hours.

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480sx
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3.5 would be a dream too.. Lol iv done it a few times, with the engine in the car i wouldnt even want to try to do the lower chain. You have to take off sooo much sht to get to where you need to be.

You have to take off the oil pan, belts, crank pulley, valve cover, upper timing chain cover, and the lower timing chain cover.

Its a huge job man, not simple at all, so dont start this project thinking that its easy. Yes, you want to buy the full timing kit (OEM ONLY) or your waisting your time.

Personally i would never do that job with the engine in the car. Its just to much of a PITA. I can pull the engine in 2-3 hours, bang out the timing chain in an hour(prly less), and put it back in before you would be bolting everything back up.

If i were you i would just pull the two upper timing chain guides and that should fix your problem.


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D-UNIT
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yep he is right. to take the oil pan off in the car you need to lower the crossmember . to do that you need to loosen the engine mounts and remove the steering shaft.

hint: you need to take off the oilpan to take the lower front cover off ( there are two bolts going up from oilpan holding the cover on) took us 1 hour to figure that one out , (WTF... Nissan silicone seal is super strong -- doh!)

Hint #2 : lining up the multi colored timing links . There are five , two on the lower chain and three on the upper chain. once you line up the links and spin the crank the marks will never line up again. The toyota and chevy guy flipped their lids( because on their engines u spin the crank once and the marks go 180 off. you spin it again and they line back up. The KA doesn't. EVER. It took us five times of taking off all the chains and sprokets (and finger crossing) to figure that one out. hope that helps. It would have helped US go faster.

Just change everything one time. Moral of story : Engine started on the first crack and purred like a kitten. All you could hear was the ticking injectors. Sweet! I'd do it again in a heartbeat. To hear a KA run so smooth was awesome!

Might as well do the water pump and thremostat while you are in there.

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D-UNIT
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480sx wrote:3.5 would be a dream too.. Lol
HAHA Like I said my two best friend are master techs w/ air tools. So taking off belts and engine mounts and oilpans is nothing to them. It was inside the engine that was foreign to them. Me by myself , yeah 6-7 hours. Me getting in the way of now KA24DE specialists w/ air 3-3.5 hours. LOL

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zerepdivad
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D-UNIT wrote:yep he is right. to take the oil pan off in the car you need to lower the crossmember . to do that you need to loosen the engine mounts and remove the steering shaft.

hint: you need to take off the oilpan to take the lower front cover off ( there are two bolts going up from oilpan holding the cover on) took us 1 hour to figure that one out , (WTF... Nissan silicone seal is super strong -- doh!)

Hint #2 : lining up the multi colored timing links . There are five , two on the lower chain and three on the upper chain. once you line up the links and spin the crank the marks will never line up again. The toyota and chevy guy flipped their lids( because on their engines u spin the crank once and the marks go 180 off. you spin it again and they line back up. The KA doesn't. EVER. It took us five times of taking off all the chains and sprokets (and finger crossing) to figure that one out. hope that helps. It would have helped US go faster.

Just change everything one time. Moral of story : Engine started on the first crack and purred like a kitten. All you could hear was the ticking injectors. Sweet! I'd do it again in a heartbeat. To hear a KA run so smooth was awesome!

Might as well do the water pump and thremostat while you are in there.
i just loosened the motor mounts and jacked up the motor a bit and just had to drop the sway bar and that's it to get my oil pan out.

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night240
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oh boy...im about to breakin the timing chain.

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D-UNIT
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I thought the "E" engine didn't need to drop the oilpan to take the front cover off. oh well. we tried that but we could not get it high enough to clear the crank girdle. The trans was hitting the top of the tunnel. didn't want too break anything. We had a hoist and a jack.

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SketchyRollin564
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lol im not talkin three hours to do the whole timing kit, just to remove the upper guides

i guess ill just remove the upper guides now to get rid of that noise, and ill do the timing chain when i rebuild the engine... which i guess ill have to do on the side =(

alnissan
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Is that a mapex m-series set?

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SketchyRollin564
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lmao no its a PDP FS (idk if they still make them, it was the birch kit)

i had my eye on the m birch for a while tho.... it was between that in that badass blue/green color, or this

i went with this because even tho the m included a free 8 inch tom at the time i was buying it, guitar center was throwing in a free 8 inch for this set, and plus, there was no local retailers that had the M birch for me to try out before i bought and all that ****

i still woujlda rather hade that one tho, even tho this kit sounds great


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