So i think the car is finally track capable...what do you think

[DALAZ_68]

I know ive been pretty MIA lately from this forum, simply put ive been saving as much money as i can to make 2010 more enjoyable. Which in turned, made 2009 hell...including having no internet besides at home, only on my PDA...

but during December i Decided it was finally time to start blowing some dough to try to make an event on the 2nd of january, which in turn, was a failure due to the one thing i couldnt control, my helmet being delivered to a wrong address and held up till the following monday...total BS...but what could i do, having a XXXL head meant no one i knew had a spare helmet i could borrow, and all stores that had a helmet were closed for the holidays...awesome right...

i went ot the event none theless, and seeing another CA running the track led me to a question, is the car ready for the track...

current mod list as of late:Stance GR+ Pro coiloversES bushings kitCS innner outter tie rodsCorbeau bucket/harnessNardi 350mm wheel on Works bell hubNIStune ECUCXRacing 2 core RadiatorHKS downpipeMegan Dual tip catbackNismo Front strut barSTRi Gauges DSD SLM (fuel press, oil press, oil temp, water temp)AEM wideband Uego gaugeBattery relocated to back of Pass seatGeneric FMICz32 fuel filterWalboro Fuel pumpR32 vlsddual speed fan (dont know what car it came off of, its a 14'' fan with 4 wire, i believe black, red, yellow, and blue)

parts i have but not installedHKS EVC-sNismo adj FPR CS steering spacer (was forgotten when i installed the new steering rack and tie rods **DOUBLE FACEPALM**)

motor is currently stock and by the looks of fuel press im running a tad bit lean. which im pretty sure with the nismo fpr will fix.

keep in mind this is a track only car...from the front seats back, everything uneeded has been gutted out,

but im just wondering, from those who actually track there cars, any tips on mods you would recommend b4 or after my first event (now scheduled for Feb 20th) for pretty much a stock CA hitting the track wether its power for the motor, or chassis enhancement parts...

current future mod list (not sure if itll be b4 or after feb 20th, but info would be lovely) : 6 point cage w/ harness bar (neccessary for Tandem)CS suspension arm conversion (all arms)one piece drive shaft (alum or steel, undecided)ss brake linesss clutch line (delete damper box crap)Turbo (undecided, want to make minimum 300 on a safe tune w/ response for driftting)injectors (big enough for 300 on a safe tune )intercooler pipping (still using acordian stock parts)re wiring (my wiring is crap)nismo CSC

safe to say a tune will be done if power adders are installed

Modified by DALAZ_68 at 9:06 AM 1/6/2010
Modified by DALAZ_68 at 11:03 AM 1/6/2010

[elwesso]

no mention of tires or brakes... Seems like you have adequate power..

Remember tires are 90% of any vehicles handling, even a ragged out stock suspension will perform OK with super sticky tires.

Also, be sure to bleed your brakes to get some fresh fluid in the calipers, right before and right after you race..

[DALAZ_68]

no mention of tires or brakes... Seems like you have adequate power..

Remember tires are 90% of any vehicles handling, even a ragged out stock suspension will perform OK with super sticky tires.

Also, be sure to bleed your brakes to get some fresh fluid in the calipers, right before and right after you race..

as far as tires go im running 225/45/17's in the front and the rear will have stock SE's to help the rear spin tires easier and get me sideways and learning

as far as brakes, the car got new front rotors and new pads all around, i might just replace the rear rotors too... and yes Clutch, brake, power steering, & coolant were all flushed for the jan 2 event that, i didnt make , so car is literally ready on those areas...

[elwesso]

no mention of tire brand... Why would you want the rear to have less grip than the front? Yeah you'll have a bunch of oversteer, great, and if you're doing auto-X or road racing, this is useless... Drifting on the other hand.....

IMO your setup sounds like your spending money on the stuff that is the least important to actual driving... good brakes and good tires are by far the most important things!

[DALAZ_68]

no mention of tire brand... Why would you want the rear to have less grip than the front? Yeah you'll have a bunch of oversteer, great, and if you're doing auto-X or road racing, this is useless... Drifting on the other hand.....

IMO your setup sounds like your spending money on the stuff that is the least important to actual driving... good brakes and good tires are by far the most important things!

yeah, this thing is just a drift car ATM...

i figure brakes are determined by the amount of power im putting down...currently im pretty much running a stock motor, so...stock brakes should do the trick, mind you as stated above, new front rotors, and new pads for front and rear, and system bled...

[Ca_Silvia]

Bring tools, i bring like half my tool box with me. Like anyone who wrenches on their own car. You know like areas that may break. Plan ahead and bring what you need. My .02

[DALAZ_68]

Bring tools, i bring like half my tool box with me. Like anyone who wrenches on their own car. You know like areas that may break. Plan ahead and bring what you need. My .02

yeah im pretty set on that, i bring at least 2 wrenches/sockets of every size needed to work onthe car, ye old breaker bar, fuses, stock arms, relays,

all sorts of poop

[ca18detgabby]

I never understood why people needed a 300HP to drift?

I would much rather save my money for tires and spare wheels(so I didnt have to bother with tire changers at the track)

I would get that accordian gone........... and redoing the IC setup in general is a good idea.

Oil cooler

PS cooler

sway bars

[ca18detgabby]

ps

total fail for no pictures.

[float_6969]

That VLSD isn't gonna last long in a drift setup.

[DALAZ_68]

I never understood why people needed a 300HP to drift?

I would much rather save my money for tires and spare wheels(so I didnt have to bother with tire changers at the track)

I would get that accordian gone........... and redoing the IC setup in general is a good idea.

Oil cooler

PS cooler

sway bars

you miss understand, 300 safe hp...but im not gonna set it for 300...i just want it to be reliable enough to go 300 without worrying about 300 being a strain...

Oil cooler and PS cooler are in the works...there getting made

i dont wanna post because honestly the way it looks is kinda...well its embarrassing...

iim planning paint to be one of the last things, gotta get the cage in first and foremost...but if you insist...i will...

float_6969 - the vlsd is coming out when i install solid bushings and replacing with 2way... the VLSD will last me atleast 2 events id say...

[float_6969]

Yea, it'll last a couple of events. Are you driving the car to the events, or trailering it? If it's on a trailer, you'd be better off just welding up an open diff.

[DALAZ_68]

Yea, it'll last a couple of events. Are you driving the car to the events, or trailering it? If it's on a trailer, you'd be better off just welding up an open diff.

trailor...and i rather 2 way it... ive seen welded go bad, break during tandem and causing booboo's...lol

[zombieslider]

you guys can tandem with out cages?

honestly id say your ready because ive seen everything from bone stock to signal auto/drift emporium g35's at the local events. Once you get one done youll see where your weak spots are and what parts you really need to buy next not just what you wanted and thought was cool.

as to gabby about the power for drifting while it can be done with no power its much easier to learn with a lil bit of power then trying to struggle through a turn when you dont even know what your doing in the first place.

[DALAZ_68]

you guys can tandem with out cages?

honestly id say your ready because ive seen everything from bone stock to signal auto/drift emporium g35's at the local events. Once you get one done youll see where your weak spots are and what parts you really need to buy next not just what you wanted and thought was cool.

as to gabby about the power for drifting while it can be done with no power its much easier to learn with a lil bit of power then trying to struggle through a turn when you dont even know what your doing in the first place.

no we cant, im saying im not tandeming anytime soon, so i dont need a cage yet, i need to crawl before i can sprint...

i just wanna get the most info from those who drive there cars on track to get a better feel, especially with this motor, that is rarely seen

i can understand gabby's statements...ive seen about 3 cars, that were built up to 400+ hp, with drivers that have never even stood in a track, and just end up in the wall

[zombieslider]

like you said you gotta crawl before you sprint, obviously you know that you dont need 300hp at this point in time but later down the road it would be nice.

Basically for any event you want to have all of your basic maitanance done, which is 85% of the time overlooked by 240 owenrs. Like you said you just replaced the brakes flushed everything thats a good start and like mentioned before tires are key in drifting although it can be easily over looked and isnt always talked about tire pressure goes along with that as well. Random spare parts and tools are good to have as well most ppl bring regular wrench sets and screw drivers so those wouldnt be hard to find at the track.

[DALAZ_68]

like you said you gotta crawl before you sprint, obviously you know that you dont need 300hp at this point in time but later down the road it would be nice.

Basically for any event you want to have all of your basic maitanance done, which is 85% of the time overlooked by 240 owenrs. Like you said you just replaced the brakes flushed everything thats a good start and like mentioned before tires are key in drifting although it can be easily over looked and isnt always talked about tire pressure goes along with that as well. Random spare parts and tools are good to have as well most ppl bring regular wrench sets and screw drivers so those wouldnt be hard to find at the track.

yeah, ive already got my tool set ready to go, to of the same wrenches...multi tool screwdriver...etc...

i wish i wish i had time to take off the transmission and inspect my clutch, sad to say i still don tknow what clutch im running,

and while the car was up on the lift the other day, i came to an astonishing fact, im running without a transmission coverplate...the thin metal piece that bolts in behind the flywheel that covers the lower half of the flywheel once the transmission and engine are bolted together...

FML...anyone have one...

[zombieslider]

as far as suspension goes i would get better parts then circuit sport for arms, i know other ones are a lil pricey but its worth it for a track car. I loved my battle version arms, peak is good to so is SPL i think thats what im gonna put on my car, theyre tie rods ends were beefy as hell.

[DALAZ_68]

i can...that not an issue...i just gavent really herd any bad reviews on CS

[zombieslider]

i would go with spl, circuit sport is alright but its not the best personally id like to have the best.

[DALAZ_68]

i would go with spl, circuit sport is alright but its not the best personally id like to have the best.

ill consider it

[zero_gripS13]

ive been drifting 3 years on track with my 240...

full interior, stock tie rods.. stock arms

all i got is olde tein hes r32 rear sway bar and welded diff, now its ca powered, but u should have no problem.. the vlsd will wear out during ur runs... let it cool down or ull one tire fire... so if u sping dont stay on it just clutch it and then get going again no point wasting it.. the biggest problem ull have with tie rods is if u dip a front wheel u might bend it.. or if u have s***ty outers they might break.. im thinking of just going tein as there the s14 14mm inners and oem quality outers... main thing have fun

[DALAZ_68]

well i have a set of S14 Tein inners, but couldnt get the outter in time fo ran event that i ended up not participating in due to lack of helmet (b4 anyone gets startet, i have a XXXL size Dome an dnone of my friends/ local suppliers had one). it was ordered but delivered to the wrong office...my next scheduled event is in about a month...so ill see how it goes...

[zero_gripS13]

oem outer are fine. the fancy outers try to correct bump steer.. which if ur beginner wont really do much for u at this point i wouldnt worry bought it.. if ur set on em go spl... but just go out and have fun u dont need alot to drift well other than practice and technique.

[DALAZ_68]

oem outer are fine. the fancy outers try to correct bump steer.. which if ur beginner wont really do much for u at this point i wouldnt worry bought it.. if ur set on em go spl... but just go out and have fun u dont need alot to drift well other than practice and technique.

well the reason i originally removed the old outers was because they were trashed...horribly...

i already got the CS tie rods and there installed...

i have the spare TEIN inners JIC with me and ill take em to the track aswell

the reason i bothered installing so many parts was to avoid havign to fix them here and there and avoiding having something break at the track... because its no fun paying 150 bones, do a warm up lap and hallf your radiator cap take a s***...yeah...it happened to me a while ago on another car during a holiday weekend event...so i was SOL lol...just tryin to avoid that kinda s***...

[watson.]

If you're drifting period, track or street, you should look into getting aftermarket seats. You need to be locked into your seat, so you can move your feet and arms at will. This way your not all over the car and bracing yourself with the steering wheel or jamming your feet into the corners of the floorboard for support.
Modified by watson. at 12:02 AM 1/29/2010

[zero_gripS13]

you did the right thing, im just saying dont think u need fancy parts to drift. just need to make sure the cars in good maintenance which it seems u did.. and if u need a seat on the cheap i recommend a s14 seat it serves me well for drifitng, but when u get more serious it doesnt compare to full race seat which im looking to upgrade to soon enough.

let us know how it goes.

[DALAZ_68]

Watson - i have a Corbeau wide Bucket and rails...its a great fit for my fatness...and 5 point harness (corbeau as well)

Zero_gripS13 - ^ i was planning on running an s14/180sx gradation seat, but i got a deal on the Corbeau and said F it...im going to need it eventually...frankly i love it, its just the rails are stupid high due to the rail formation, and the stock mounting humps on the floor...so ill get my bud with a grinder torch and welder to come out and custom fab this ish...

I just got a KAAZ 2way install aswell...My bud needed money for tools (to start making legit cages) and i needed a diff anyway...im in a cunondrum wether to keep the r32 vlsd for TA events, ive put it up for sale and if no one bites ill just keep it...

[DALAZ_68]

another question dangling over my head, is temps/press...

what is a safe temp/press at the track...

i dont want to be over heating or anything, next thing you know oil press drops to 0...

Gauges are fully functioning and are electrical type...

[progman]

Your asking too many questions. lol. just get out there and have fun.

I drift with my mostly stock s14 and my temp gauge never moves really and I have made consecutive runs before. I'm betting the first mod you will want is a welded LSD (if you can't afford a after market one). Having a better seat is definitely a plus. You don't want to be holding the steering wheel for support.. it's harder to control the car and considerate (at least for me).

In my experience when you first start drifting your not worried about your car at all. You are trying to learn basic skills or "how the hell do I get through that S" or "what am I doing wrong here"..