Like the title says, I have the 4-5k stutter on an rb20 and need help. It drives normally all the way till 4-5k then stutters and makes a boxer sound and holds 7 psi on my boost gauge. I've already searched and here is what I have checked over.
No code 21.
Boost leaks couplers clamps bov wastegate intake injectors and brake booster check valve. all tested at 60 psi.
MAF. Fixed my wiring so that's good. Tried 2 n62s an n60 and a j60. CAS is good injectors click. TPS and idle switch are fine. IACV is in spec. AACV is working.
Ignition. Did the GM coil mod. Also ran a relay for the power wire. Wires are not grounding out. No miss at Idle. Idle speed is a 750 at 15*. plugs are bcpr6e-11 or bcpr6es-11 don t remember which. gapped at .8mm with a feeler gauge and wire gapper. Alternator tested good even though that might not have anything to do with it. Grounds are new and clean too.
AFR's are fine and actually hold a 12 to 1 even while stuttering.
Someone told me that it could be my ignitor, but i tested it per FSM and it's fine. There is a crack in the black plastic on the casing though... Could be bad? Besides I thought the Ignitor only told which coil to discharge and when....
Any Ideas? Need anymore info LMK. If you need a video LMK too.
yes gas is fine I have filled up a couple twice since the problem started (daily driver and it drives fine otherwise). Only happens over 30% throttle according to readouts. that is where my boost gauge starts to show boost pressure.
Postby
GhostRider240sx »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/ghostrider240sx-u13109.htmlMon Apr 14, 2008 11:09 am
SAME EXACT ISSUE. Haven't figured it out yet but, Ima have to go over all my sensors and wires again to make sure everything is kosher. May try different plugs. Maybe something warmer?
Postby
l0nestar »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/l0nestar-u38221.htmlFri Apr 18, 2008 3:39 am
SIL-LINE wrote:Sometimes stupid ish like that or even the bolt on the ecu not tight can give the biggest headaches.
You mean the bolt that holds the main ECU connector in the ECU? I should hope that it is not loose. yikes!
Devil_child,Nothing else to add, but just wanted to say:Good job on actually researching a problem and saying 'I checked ___' as opposed to be spoon-fed.
Ok, small update NOW I have a code 21. So, it is ignition related so, left to rule out is CAS and Ignitor. Are there any other ways to check CAS other than spinning it over?
NVM CAS would throw a code 11. So, I guess I'm waiting on the ignitor.
Stop stealing parts . I love how their "video surveillance" covers the two shops, the office, and the entrance. So easy to walk out with stuff.
So, the Z32 ignitor just shifted the stutter to 6500+ rpms? Or did it eliminate it altogether? Not that it really matters, now that you can run boost again and not have to shift at 4k in every gear . It was getting pretty annoying hearing you complain everyday about how I beat your *** at GT 4 and your car was running like balls.
Hey, whatever you pocket and get away with is fair in my book . It's not like there is a big demand for KA24DE injector o-rings and miscellaneous EGR components. Did that totaled Z32 actually have the ignitor still on it? Surprised you could salvage anything from that car. Just because I suck at snow racing doesn't mean a thing Mr. R390 road car on Nurburgring. I'm bringing my PS2 and everything home come Thursday afternoon so I can beat you proper at Trial Mountain.
Glad to hear new plugs brought out the "Race Breed" 20. Now I just need to get my manifold chopped and the T25 installed and tuned. Should be fun in a Sentra around, oh, maybe 8-10 lbs of boost?