so i got my gt28 on, but i have a couple of problems....

[eds13]

so i'm using a gt28 off of an s15 with a stock mainnifold. bought a new gasket for where the manni bolts up to the turbo. well, it leaks. what can i do about it besides taking it back off and having it milled down?

next Q

i have all my vaccum hoses run correctly. (intake to wastegate with tees for the BOV and the boost gauge) when it idles you can see the bov going in and out and hear it releasing pressure. ( oldschool hks bov) whats up with that?

and one more thing i tried putting a manual boost controller in that same line and cant get that to work at all. either it just doesnt work or i over boost like crazy.

thanks in advanceed

[Swedish Mike]

1. Try some copper grease on the gasket, works great as a thin heat gasket.If it doesn´t work you need to resurface it.

2. You need more spring pressure in the BOV, any adjustment screw on that model? If no, put a washer inside to give more pressure.

/Mike

[float_6969]

The wastegate line needs to be as short as possible and DOESN'T need to be refrenced from the manifold, although it's OK if you do.

What I would recommend (and what I have done) is to remove the outlet elbow, drill and tap it for pipe thread. Get a threaded brass nipple w/teflon tape and thread it into the hole you just made. Reinstall the elbow, and run a line from the nipple to the wastgate.

The BOV line should come from the nipple that is right behind the TB on the outside of the plenum. (side farthest away from the injectors. You can also T your gauge into this line as well, but you may need to reduce it down.

As Mike said, you need to adjust the pre-load on the BOV to prevent it from opening at idle.

[eds13]

ok i'll try putting a washer in the bov, thanks.

but to spray copper coat on the gasket i still have to take the turbo back off. i reallly don't want to take it back off if i dont have to.

[ca18detpowered]

Sorry dood, youre screwed...shes coming off again if you want to get rid of that leak.

thats one positive side to the sr20......they switched the manifold bolt pattern so that it isnt as much of a ***** to get off.

when you retighten those bolts after you get it resurfaced or gasketed....hold the manifold and turbo with the floor, put your foot on it, and torque the **** out of those nuts. MAKE SURE YOU PUT THE LOCKERS BACK ON. yknow those little things that sit under the nuts, that you bend up to hold the nut in its place? VERY IMPORTANT

good luck

[eds13]

i was thinkin about jbweld... maybe? if i wanted to ghetto rig it.....

and i didnt put those lockers back on, i will if i have to take the turbo back off. prolly will anyways

[float_6969]

JB weld is only good to about 4-600°F. That might work if this was a diesel, but it's not. You'll melt it off the first time you get into boost...

[eds13]

ok thanks guys. so i guess its back down to the shop to tear it off again

[float_6969]

Sorry for the bad news. Good luck buddy...

[ca18detpowered]

Ive had mine off like 4 times now....i hate ca18 for its exhaust manifold...

other than that, **** SR

[eds13]

well i got it off a lot easier than i did the first time. only took me about 2 hours this time. thing was warped wicked bad. had a friend grind it down tonight for me, got it nice and flat. i'll hopefully be gettin a ssac manifold here in the next day or 2. so i'll through that on seeing my manifold was warped too. anyways i'll keep you guys updated, because you guys are awesome and i know that you have done it before. lol

till next time

[ca18detpowered]

dont you just HATE the bottom two that are at the back of the motor on the underside of the manifold?

I HATE THOSE TWO BASTARDS.

hehehe

But now that i have my t28bb s15 turbo..im happy, and apparently so is ca

and on a sidenote....i love the sound it makes when its cold..sounds like a police siren

[eds13]

they arent that hard to get off, but getting them on is a pain in the butt!! then theres the freakin coolant lines but it should go better this time. i know what i'm doing now

[float_6969]

I have to admit that SSAC + SS oil and coolant lines turns removing the turbo into a 1hr job...

[rotorific]

Well the first time took me about 8 hours but then I had to make my mani "fit". I can only hope that the 2nd time to fit my exhaust leak will take half the time.

[eds13]

well its back on!!! got a manifold from xo2racing on ebay. it has a one year warrenty against cracks and looks decent. i had to use a sr dump and down pipe. grind a lil off the intake housing, and grind a lil hump smooth on the transmission to get everything to fit right pitb!!! but its done. hopefully somtime this week i'll get a frount mount and the fuel pump in fuel pump to go in asap!!! i am pretty happy with how hard it pulls for the wastegate being set a 5 psi (stock) get my fuel pump in and i'll double it

[float_6969]

LOL, from experience, that turbo is BARELY in it's effeicency range at 5psi. Wait till you crank that baby up to 14 psi. You won't be able to wipe the grin off your face for a week!

[eds13]

bad news. turbos blown looked like a freakin fog machine coming home from work. and oils just dripping out of my BOV. that means seals right? the bb turbos arent rebuildable so i'm screwed sombody shoot me

[float_6969]

Was this a used T28? If it's new you've either go too much oil coming in, or the oil drain line is kinked. Also, how do you have the PCV system hooked up?

[eds13]

used gt28 off of an s15 about 30k miles on it. um, whats the pcv valve system? and how do i controll how much oil is coming in? i'll check the drain line asap

[float_6969]

Sometimes GT turbo's need an oil restrictor. PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilation. Regardless of the motor, you will get some combustion gas that leaks past the rings. These gases can be corrosive and moisture laden. If left in the crankcase they can cause corrosion and oxidation (rust). The PCV system removes these gases and the extra pressure associated with them. If the rings leak too much or the PCV system doesn't work very well (something CA's are infamous for) then pressure can build up in the crankcase and reduce the flow of oil out of the turbo. If the flow is reduced too much, the oil will back up into the center section and cause the oil to leak past the oil seals. This can cause the smoke out of the exhaust you are seeing.

[eds13]

so if i get a pcv vavle that "could" fix my problem? my friend also sugested a heavier oil with a lot of detergents. i'm running a 5w30 synthetic blend

[Reno]

hmm i heard a good oil was 5w40 or 5w50 , since im in Florida... when i get my motor im gonna put 5W40

[float_6969]

A guy that used to work in the oil company told me that you shouldn't run anything less than a 40w in a turbo motor. Also, there is no reason to run a 5-30w or 5-40w in Florida. 10-40W should be fine for you guys. I actually run 0-40w Mobile 1 syn in the winter and then bump up to 20-50w in the summer.

As for the PCV valve, yea, it might help if yours is stuck shut. Can you get us a pic of your engine bay so I can see how you've got the PCV lines hooked up?

[eds13]

alright, def the turbo. took loose the intercooler piping and oil just ran out onto the ground fitch9014 came over and took a look at it for me too. blown turbo FTL

[float_6969]

I thought it was a relatively new turbo?

[fitch9014]

it blew out two quarts of oil and literally looked like a smoke machine when we started it. when he pulled the intake manifold pipe we found the other quart or so of oil...so yeah, you could say it's blown...sorry i couldn't help more, man! you should try and get your money back because it wasn't nearly what that dude said it was! if you do, charge him for the broken screwdrivers and drill bits...