Post by
PEZi »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/pezi-u122065.html
Sun Feb 21, 2010 6:34 pm
SUSPENSIONfor the front.... BUSHINGS BUSHINGS BUSHINGS!!! (and camber too)
I'm not sure how the camber curve is on the HB, but if its anything like the 720, you'll need excessive amounts of front camber... the best way of going about this is by marking your tires at events to calculate rollover and by looking at mid turn pics
after about 2 months of this process i got mine right... i run about -4 degrees of camber, and as you can see here the outside wheel goes to 0 while the inside goes for the ride of its life
another big thing is to make sure you aren't hitting the bump stops in the front... its easier than it seems to do under hard cornering... and if you hit them its understeer heaven
for the rear... just make sure you have all of your stiffness still in tact after lowering it the way you did
WEIGHTthis is all class dependent... but to make our trucks more competitive with the low power they make, it better to take weight out of the front or move it further back wherever you can... the closer you can be to 50-50 weight distribution the better, but adding weight is not good for such a sport where you are always changing direction and accelerating
also... with a truck, you'll never really get rid of the oversteer without mega grippy tires (which i will be running come summertime)
in the meantime... its fun getting sideways
TIRES AND PSIas a beginner... you probably don't want to spend too much on tires that you're just gonna tear up... but you will honestly be surprised what tires like Dunlop Direzza StarSpecs and ADVAN Neovas can do... or Hosiers of course if you want a track only set
for your current tires.... you want to set the pressure according to weight bias.... the fronts will need a lot more than the rear
set them close to the max PSI up front and 5-8 lower in the rear.... as they heat up, after each run lower them back down because they will increase each time with the heat...
to figure out the proper PSI for your tires... mark them with chalk and see how much rollover you're getting... you want to use all of the contact patch AND NOTHING MORE
SIDENOTES-4 degrees of camber is not necessarily ideal for street use, however, as long as toe is completely in check, it doesn't really hurt the tires bad... what it does is wear the inside and not the outside (it does not do this faster than normal contrary to popular belief.... that what bad toe alignment does)... as long as you swap the tires from side to side (re-mount so the inside becomes outside etc) then you'll still get the full life out of the tire
removing weight and rearranging weight is not allowed in most classes... doing so will move you into the Prepared and Modified classes
AND SOME QUESTIONSwhat class did you run in? does your region calculate points? if so how did you score?do you have any other numbers that i can compare to? (i typically run the times of the Street Modified cars... evos WRX's and such with engine and suspension mods)