So any convertibles have lsd?

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drksol22
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i was told that the vert i just bought had vlsd in it but is there a way to check or know?


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Eikon
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'verts didn't come with a limited slip diff from the factory. So if your 'vert has one, it would be an aftermarket unit.

A couple ways to find out.. 1.) crawl underneath and look at the unit. Should be a sticker with a part number. R200 is stock. R200V is the viscous unit. (I think.. Where's 94_240sx when you need him). 2.) Peel out! If you see one tire streak, it's an open diff.. if you see two tire streaks you have a lsd.


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GoinTopless240
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Peel out? with a slush o matic???

You kill me..

You could jack up the back of the car until the rear wheels are off the ground. Turn the right rear wheel forward (clockwise), if the left wheel turns in the same direction you have LSD, if the wheel turns the opposite way, you have an open differential and damned to one wheel burns...

drksol22
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there is no sticker. i did a burnout and both spun. i switched it to a manual transmission and when i went into the parking lot i tried sliding the car. while moving i dumped the clutch and slide to the left and then back right and then straight. i went back and saw the tire marks and there was two throughout the entire "drift" does that help any?

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GoinTopless240
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did you swap the transmission? if so good job. if not then the previous guy was smart and did it all at once.... but it sounds like you have it.. bonus for you..

drksol22
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i did the transmission swap. answer this. if a car didnt have lsd could it spin both tires while "driting" in a S figure? like it did?

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GoinTopless240
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it would dead leg... only one would spin...... endlessly... when you transferred power to the other wheel, you would just turn if the right rear got traction. Just make sure you change the rear end fluid occasionaly. VLSD uses fluid to engage the other wheel. The fluid gets "worn out" or less Viscous (sp?) and will slip more, which will burn up the rear end in time.

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GoinTopless240
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Eikon wrote: (I think.. Where's 94_240sx when you need him).
lol... he's asleep at the wheel...

drksol22
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can it have anything to do with my new six-puck clutch? or you think its lsd?

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GoinTopless240
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one wheel drive is one wheel drive no matter how good your clutch hooks up..

ishkabibble
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GoinTopless240 wrote:The fluid gets "worn out" or less Viscous (sp?) and will slip more, which will burn up the rear end in time.
No damage to the rear end, it just becomes an open diff. You can't change the viscous fluid.


madcowvert
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my guess would be that you have a j30 or a 300zx diff. they fit but you would use your s13 rear diff plate. so you really wont see a sticker that say's VLSD.

Look at your axel's this is one way to maybe tell if you have a j30 , z32 or a s14 diff..

if you have 5 bolts you have a VLSD for sure

if you have 5 bolt and both wheels spin you have an early model VLSD


drksol22
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i went to check the car out. i lifted it up and spun the right rear tire clockwise and the left rear tire spun the other way. is that the only way i know that it is not lsd? the driveshaft is a four bolt pattern. any ideas why both tires would spin and make tire marks if i dont have lsd?

madcowvert
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that bolt pattern is on the axels not the drive shaft. and the wheel spining is the only way i know how to check it.

drksol22
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what do you guys think about a welded diff? i have a spare s13 diff and wondered if it would be worth it to weld it together?

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Eikon
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I'd pick up a viscous diff. you can get a J30, R32 skyline, etc.. for like $250 shipped all day long.


afracer
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GoinTopless240 wrote:it would dead leg... only one would spin...... endlessly... when you transferred power to the other wheel, you would just turn if the right rear got traction. Just make sure you change the rear end fluid occasionaly. VLSD uses fluid to engage the other wheel. The fluid gets "worn out" or less Viscous (sp?) and will slip more, which will burn up the rear end in time.
If one wheel turns the opposite direction when the car is jacked up and you rotate the driveshaft, you don't have a LSD. Also, changing the fluid in the VLSD will not affect how hard or well the VLSD engages. The Viscous fluid in the diff is a sealed unit inside the rear end...after time and miles this fluid tends to leak out and there is no way to refill it. What happens then is the VLSD will start more and more to act like an open diff and lock up both wheels less and less. I always wondered why my bro's stock VLSD locked up so much better than mine ever did...this is why. If you've got a low mileage one in good shape and it works well, consider yourself lucky and enjoy. But do yourself a favor, even if you have a VLSD go out and get yourself a good clutch type LSD...helicals are worthless almost as much as VLSD's. They unlock themselves and basically become an open diff as soon as it starts to sense the going sideways action, especially when you're about to transition a spin from one direction to the other, but it'll lock up good if you're going straight ahead. You probably think that's great for drag racing, which it kinda is...but helicals are far weaker as well, so putting a lot of power through it with some slicks on a sticky track will blow it out pretty quickly too. Rebuildable clutch type are the way to go!

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DeXteR
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/\ that /\

was the best post in this whole thread.

i don't know if you guys just haven't done your homework or are reading stories on the internet or what.

some s13's did come with lsd (some of the hicas versions and higher end models i believe). it is true that the j30 and 300z had vlsd's that could be swapped in - either completely with axles or the guts of the diff could be swapped. i'm not going to add much to what afracer said because that post cleared up a lot of things regarding the lsd.

i will repeat though that the BEST quick and easy way to test for lsd is to lift the rear and spin the wheels to see if they both spin the same direction. if they don't, you've got yourself an open rear end.

again, a vlsd is great if you can get one in good condition, but clutch type is the way to go. a welded diff is a no-slip differential. both wheels spin together ALL the time. there's plenty of information about that though and a bit of arguement for daily driving with it. it's going to put a lot of stresses on your drivetrain and tires when you're turning into your driveway and at intersections and things like that where a limited-slip would allow for some spin and not throw those stresses into those other parts.

drksol22
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i checked the diff and axels today. i have six bolts hold my axels in. does anyone have an idea if that i stock diff or vlsd?

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Eikon
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drksol22 wrote:i checked the diff and axels today. i have six bolts hold my axels in. does anyone have an idea if that i stock diff or vlsd?
Follow the instructions Dexter gave.
DeXteR wrote:i will repeat though that the BEST quick and easy way to test for lsd is to lift the rear and spin the wheels to see if they both spin the same direction. if they don't, you've got yourself an open rear end.

wirelessalpha
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1. I have a VLSD and love it for daily driving. For a daily driver - go with this setup.

2. I am removing my VLSD for a welded diff (gotcha!). Since I'm sick of the VLSD losing lock power, when doing a few drift runs.

In fact, if you are gonna drift - don't even think of buying a VLSD. It's a P.O.S. When it gets hot - which is like 2-3 hard runs at a track - it reverts back to an open-diff.

Either get a REAL diff (cusco...etc) or welded. I've ran with cars with weld-diffs and they are great. But everything you ever read about daily driving is true....noise, hard to park...etc. Both wheels spinning all the time is stupid for the road - but hey, that's what second cars are for! (I have a daily bmw).

-Chi

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DeXteR
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well, once you've done the swap a few times, you can switch diffs in a matter of 15 minutes - if you're strong enough to not need a jack anyway... so you can drive to the track (or wherever) with your oem lsd and take your welded diff with you. swap it in the pits and tear it up. swap back to lsd for the trip home.

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martins_240sx
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madcowvert wrote:my guess would be that you have a j30 or a 300zx diff. they fit but you would use your s13 rear diff plate. so you really wont see a sticker that say's VLSD.

Look at your axel's this is one way to maybe tell if you have a j30 , z32 or a s14 diff..

if you have 5 bolts you have a VLSD for sure

if you have 5 bolt and both wheels spin you have an early model VLSD
madcowvert wrote:my guess would be that you have a j30 or a 300zx diff. they fit but you would use your s13 rear diff plate. so you really wont see a sticker that say's VLSD.

Look at your axel's this is one way to maybe tell if you have a j30 , z32 or a s14 diff..

if you have 5 bolts you have a VLSD for sure

if you have 5 bolt and both wheels spin you have an early model VLSD
The 94 and up J30 has a 6 bolt design...so There is no need to change out the half shafts... you only need to change the cover....And my question is, the viscous lsd only locks the wheels when the silicone in the fluid heats up and expands causing it to lock the other side...so if you are telling him to spin a cold viscous wouldnt it act like an open diff...If I where you I would do a couple of burnouts and then jack up the rear and spin...just my 2cents....please correct me if Im wrong, with proof

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biggie
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The viscous liquid heats up and locks very qucikly, its not like it has to heat up like your engine oil/water. When one wheel spins a couple times its enough to heat up the vicious fluid to lock the diff (if its working properly).

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martins_240sx
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yeah but most people will just go to the back and rotate it maybe once


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