Snapped a main bolt!

[JNM240]

Ok, so im torquing down the main journal bolts with my (old) torque wrench set to 40 ft lbs. Tightening them down in sequence per the FSM, a little at a time. The torque wrench never clicks, so i keep tightening. Then *SNAP*, the main bolt in the center (intake side) snapped!!! CRAP! I might have to remove everything (got the pistons all in, and the rear main seal plate in) and take the block to have it machined out.

Damn it all, too. Yesterday i was helping one of the techs at work remove a transmission from a 6 liter turbo diesel Dodge Ram duelie and it slipped and clocked me in the face. An emergency room visit and 5 stitches under my left eye later and i got to stay home today. Great cause my FMIC came. AWESOME. But now this!! What a setback!

Anyone know if ARP makes the main bolts for the CA? And probably, while im at it, what about the connecting rod nuts?

I was really hoping to get the bottom end put back together and put my freshly painted and polished oil pan back on.

[boost_boy]

Ok, so im torquing down the main journal bolts with my (old) torque wrench set to 40 ft lbs. Tightening them down in sequence per the FSM, a little at a time. The torque wrench never clicks, so i keep tightening. Then *SNAP*, the main bolt in the center (intake side) snapped!!! CRAP! I might have to remove everything (got the pistons all in, and the rear main seal plate in) and take the block to have it machined out.

Damn it all, too. Yesterday i was helping one of the techs at work remove a transmission from a 6 liter turbo diesel Dodge Ram duelie and it slipped and clocked me in the face. An emergency room visit and 5 stitches under my left eye later and i got to stay home today. Great cause my FMIC came. AWESOME. But now this!! What a setback!

Anyone know if ARP makes the main bolts for the CA? And probably, while im at it, what about the connecting rod nuts?

I was really hoping to get the bottom end put back together and put my freshly painted and polished oil pan back on.

That sucks. Find someone with an extra stock one and him hook you up. The ARP ones aren't CA specific and I can't remember off-hand which part # is used as the main studs in my built engine. I can tell you one was kinda long and I had to do some physical adjustments with a hammer and punch tool .

Dee

[JNM240]

Well the good news is that the snapped off portion was above the block and i could turn it out with just a pair of pliers. Bad news is, looking at all the main bolts (i took them all out), they are all severely stretched. Im gonna call ARP tomorrow and give them the specs of the bolt and have them whip up a set. Anything would be better than putting these worn out bolts back in, even if i have to 'modify' them as well.

BTW, in case anyone is wondering about my build, so far i have Calico coated rod and main bearings, Cometic metal head gasket, ARP head studs, tubular stainless steel exhaust manifold, 550cc injectors, and aluminum (egay special) pulleys (water pump, alternator and p/s). Plus my FMIC kit came in today. Still planning on using the stock T25 for a while, until i pay down some of this stuff and can afford a GT2871R. Plus i will be socketing and chipping my ECU and tuning it for the injectors and added boost i will hopefully be making.

[r34 gtr]

yeah, vise grips can un-stick almost any bolt. you just gotta adjust them so you and a friend can just barely close them.

[JNM240]

Actually it wasnt even that tight in the block. Just a regular pair of pliers with very little force removed the broken peice.

Anyway, i just ordered a full set from my local dealership, and boy did i get a hook up!! I knew the girl behind the parts counter and got them at cost!! Sweet deal! I just hope that the Dallas warehouse actually has them or can get them so i can start working on this engine again.

[float_6969]

yeah, vise grips can un-stick almost any bolt. you just gotta adjust them so you and a friend can just barely close them.

Actually if you have 2 pair, you can put the first pair on the bolt and use the second pair to tighten the first pair up enough to hold it so tight it will either turn the bolt, or break the vice grips.

I've done both....

[JNM240]

Ok, crap-o-la.

8 of the 10 came in with the last 2 being cross shipped from a different warehouse. Took the 8 home. Dont fit. Way too short. By like an inch. They are the same thread pitch and look the same, but are just shorter by about an inch. And they looked them up via a 88 Nissan Pulsar NX SE with a CA18DE. So now i gotta return em and take a lot of measurements to have ARP whip me up a set of studs. And it'll probably be in the $200 price range. O well, more piece of mind i guess.

[Ca_laurier]

that bolt was finished. i deal with kids who snap wheel studs all day. i have even done it when your have your torque wrench set properly but it won't click than snap.

i always think of it as a good thing. last thing you need is for **** to screw up while your driving

[AWDB12wagon]

Ok, crap-o-la.

8 of the 10 came in with the last 2 being cross shipped from a different warehouse. Took the 8 home. Dont fit. Way too short. By like an inch. They are the same thread pitch and look the same, but are just shorter by about an inch. And they looked them up via a 88 Nissan Pulsar NX SE with a CA18DE. So now i gotta return em and take a lot of measurements to have ARP whip me up a set of studs. And it'll probably be in the $200 price range. O well, more piece of mind i guess.

I bet its because the CA18DE didnt come with a crank girdle....and the DET did...what are the measurements and thread pitches of the main's?

[JNM240]

You are correct Sir!!

Journal thickness is 1/2"bearing cap thickness is 2 1/8"thread depth is 7/8"thread is M10 x 1.50

I have to call ARP and get some made for me. They said i need to fax them page 22 of their catalog filled out, but thats to determine head studs (cylinder head thickness, head gasket thickness, ect). So hopefully they can get me at set by these numbers.

A friend said i can just go get some Grade 8 bolts from a hardware store that fit the bill. I really, REALLY dont think i want some el-cheapo bolts holding the main part of the motor together while pusing 22lbs of boost.

[AWDB12wagon]

So, how about a measurement from the bearing girdle, untill it bottoms out in the hole? A dial caliper would be good for this. Did you call and talk to the custom order department?