Smoothing metal?

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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Two Fowty
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There is the damage to my quarterpanel, pretty wicked. Now BEFORE you post telling me to get a new shell, or overfenders, or a new qp, I tell you: I am not going that route.

Now I wouldnt mind bondo'ing this, but it'd be nicer if the metal was more smoothed out, like where that giant cut is. Also, the qp is bent outwards farther than it should be.

Is there any way I can get the fender pushed inwards so it is more even with the car, and then smooth out the qp so I can bondo it? Any good ideas will be very appreciated, flaming will not.


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leesredgt
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First: How the heck did the metal get bent outwards and not inwards?

Second:You could just beat it down with a flat hammer untill you get it close then bondo it,but that would be a heck of alot of bondo

Third: Just cut the section out and weld a new one in and bondo over the welds.

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Two Fowty
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leesredgt wrote:First: How the heck did the metal get bent outwards and not inwards?

Second:You could just beat it down with a flat hammer untill you get it close then bondo it,but that would be a heck of alot of bondo

Third: Just cut the section out and weld a new one in and bondo over the welds.
You mean just cut like a square of metal out and weld another square that is the same in? And if I weld it in wouldnt the welds be sticking outwards? How would I get rid of it so its a smooth finish? And isnt it hard to weld sheetmetal?

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leesredgt
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Two Fowty wrote:
You mean just cut like a square of metal out and weld another square that is the same in? And if I weld it in wouldnt the welds be sticking outwards? How would I get rid of it so its a smooth finish? And isnt it hard to weld sheetmetal?
Yes.

Well it would be best if you could take some of your interior out and weld it from the backside that way there wouldnt be any weld really on the outside,but if not just weld it on the out side and grind them down smooth but not all the way through and then bondo way out past those edges and over the welds that way it blends and looks liek one peice.

Its not to hard,just try not to arc holes in it and dont get the metal to hot.Just get it tac welded in there were you one it and then weld it in spots,not all in one place and one time.Do a couple inches there and then move to another section untill the other cools down,that way the metal dosent get hot and distort on you.

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1sikS13
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my thought would be to get a clean donor quarter and weld it on after you drill out the spot welds on that one. Cause even if you do get it close enough and decide to bondo it. DO you realize how much bondo that would be. Chances are that that bondo would crack over time.

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Hcraig13
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Cave and Pave baby.

Not really but since i am bored i will tell you step by step what needs to be done. First the metal is pulled out to far becuase of whoever previously worked on it. Those holes are from the old style of metalwork before the new style stud guns. First Weld the holes. Grind the welds down smooth with grinding wheel. Next use a stud gun to weld copper studs on to the panel in all the sunken places. Pull dents out with a slide hammer until they are realtivly flat. The metal is obviously streachedso when you pull the dents you will need to heat the metal, compress it, and quickly shrink it with cold water. Once all metal is fairly smooth blok it with 80 grit including a little farther than the damage. Bondo time. Put a couple medium layers of bondo to get a good shape. You may then want to use icing(Thin bondo) to get the final shape. Blocking the bondo with 80 and then 180. Then primer the whole area over the 180 scratches. Block the primer with 320 then DA everything with 800 and its ready for paint. If that is an actual crease as if it kind of looks to be it will be almost imposible to pull that. If you have not done this several times i dont not suggest it as that is very serious body work. Just whatever you do Do Not bondo over that whole thing. It will pop off within a day. I seriously suggest taking it to a body shop but its gonna be exspensive. Hope i could help And good luck with the whole car. Any more pictures i like the color.

Edit*** Please dont listen to the other people on here and please dont do it yourself. There is no way to weld that quarter from the inside. Strut tower anyone????

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Two Fowty
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Hcraig13 wrote:Cave and Pave baby.

Not really but since i am bored i will tell you step by step what needs to be done. First the metal is pulled out to far becuase of whoever previously worked on it. Those holes are from the old style of metalwork before the new style stud guns. First Weld the holes. Grind the welds down smooth with grinding wheel. Next use a stud gun to weld copper studs on to the panel in all the sunken places. Pull dents out with a slide hammer until they are realtivly flat. The metal is obviously streachedso when you pull the dents you will need to heat the metal, compress it, and quickly shrink it with cold water. Once all metal is fairly smooth blok it with 80 grit including a little farther than the damage. Bondo time. Put a couple medium layers of bondo to get a good shape. You may then want to use icing(Thin bondo) to get the final shape. Blocking the bondo with 80 and then 180. Then primer the whole area over the 180 scratches. Block the primer with 320 then DA everything with 800 and its ready for paint. If that is an actual crease as if it kind of looks to be it will be almost imposible to pull that. If you have not done this several times i dont not suggest it as that is very serious body work. Just whatever you do Do Not bondo over that whole thing. It will pop off within a day. I seriously suggest taking it to a body shop but its gonna be exspensive. Hope i could help And good luck with the whole car. Any more pictures i like the color.

Edit*** Please dont listen to the other people on here and please dont do it yourself. There is no way to weld that quarter from the inside. Strut tower anyone????
why would it pop off within a day? I think it'd stay longer if i bondo'd it as is because the unevenness and the texture of it would make the bondo more likely to adhere to it, whereas a smooth surface would provide no grip.

I'm no expert, this is just a guess. please explain why it'd come off so fast though

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1sikS13
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I was personally referrring to just the outer skin and not the inside **** also.

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OutToWinPAHC
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Hold bondo chips already. Find a new quarter panel and cut and weld or smooth as best as you can seal any holes, prim prime prime paint and overfenders for the Ghetto fix.

Bstrd240SX
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the smoothing you want to do to the original metal is in the realm of HIGHLY skilled panel beaters. and because of the previous repair your fighting a loosing battle

when a body panel is caved in, the metal almost wants to pop back to shape, but once its been beaten senseless with a sledge hammer and a slide hammer this is no longer true, this is teh case with your panel

sure you can beat it out further and slather it with bondo again, but thats gonna be alot of work

to answer a previos question, thicker filler is more likely to come off because a THIN coat of filler is flexable, and moves with the panel, but a thick coat of filler is rigid, and therefore starts to seperate over time

if you install a patch panel, there a tool that flanges the edge of the panel, and you lay your welds in the bit of a recess this gives you, then grind them down flush. if done properly theres no weld sticking out, and little filling to do but realy this car requires a new 1/4 panel, its quicker to drill out the spot welds on this and the replacement panel and then slap the new one on

any 110v mig will have the power to plugweld the holes of the new panel to the old metal, and all your welds will be hidden

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ca18detgabby
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why on earth are you so desparate to save that panel....... clearly that horse has 3 broken legs.........

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EnjoiNismo
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ca18detgabby wrote:clearly that horse has 3 broken legs.........

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7x13xRPS13
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hehe

time for over fenders

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Crazyirish
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Bondo is made for filling in SMALL surface imperfections. It would take a kung fu master to return that quarter panel to anything resembling undamaged. Seriously, I've seen pictures of vehicles in combat situations where everyone aboard died that looked less f'd up.

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AZ89two4Tsx
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#1 - get overfenders

#2 - get wheels that fit properly


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Xdisaster240sX
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Not to beat a dead horse but didnt you say you WERE going to replace the fender in different thread you started? Im also sure this conversation already took place in the same thread.

You need to decide what YOU want to do. You could either bondo it or replace it. I guess it depends on how much you got to spend. IMO I would try to bondo it if you had the eye for it that is. Thats alot of work you got there. Just do us all a favor and stop making stupid threads. Instead of making a new one for another question, just continue this one. Well...anyway good luck

Logan76
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Why does everyone want to weld in a new quater? professional bodyshops use Lord fusor (an epoxy) to epoxy on there quaterpanel, and no it wont fall off. If you go with Lord fusor and a new quater there would be no need to weld in a brand new panel, just fusor it in.

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Two Fowty
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what makes you guys think overfenders is such a good idea as opposed to completely replacing them. every time i make any sort of referrence to qp's you guys instantly respond with overfenders. what is so good about them.

Bstrd240SX
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lord fusor is AMAZING stuff. we had a demo of it back in high school auto shop. they took 2 scrap pieces of sheet metal and bonded them together, let them sit for a 1/2 hour and then let us at them with hammers

the one i got my hands on i beat beyond recognition by placing it on the concrete floor and smashing it with a 10 pound sledge hammer repeatedly, the epoxy never failed, it was the metal that broke

ie: epoxy 2 piece of wood together, then karate chop them, thats basically what i had in my hand

the fusor rep almost shat a brick when i proclaimed "i got them apart" from across the shop ... but then he saw my pieces and laughed

Logan76
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Not all people have access to a welder, and if they do they still may not have the skill to weld together body panels without any warping, he should get oem quaters or overfenders and fusor them in. job done.

livinglegend2100
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maybe i missed the thread about it, but... how the HELL does that happen? just curious

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Two Fowty
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i read up a bit on fusor and it seems like something that isnt really advertised to the public, like say bondo.. why is this? is it hard to use? would someone as novice as me be able to do it?

livinglegend2100
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its more of a shop application for extensive work (i believe) like mating panels. bondo gets advertised so much because people use it to cover up everything under the sun and its super easy to use.

but if you can use it. i worked at a body shop last year and we used some offband panel-bond and it worked like a charm. held WAY better than the welds did..

livinglegend2100
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livinglegend2100 wrote:maybe i missed the thread about it, but... how the HELL does that happen? just curious

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Two Fowty
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if your asking about the body its from the previous owner drifting. i bought this car, got scammed badly, fixed up the mechanical problems, and now i want to make the car look good, and i am hitting a massive brick wall with these forums.

i just want to fix the body the cheapest route, because i am a 16 year old that works at pizza hut and i cant afford to do what most suggest on these forums. I have maybe 100 extra bucks a month to put toward fixing this car.

I was strongly considering bondo'ing it but then people said it would crack and fall off in no time. Then i considered cutting the qp off and welding a new one in, but i dont know how to weld, and i dont know what spot welds are so i cant even find them to drill them out, and i have no experience whatsoever working with metal. I considered overfenders but then i'd have to get some new wider wheels so my car wouldnt look stupid with the ones it has now.

There are pros and cons to each one, and i just dont know which way to go.

wonder how many insults ill get with this post

livinglegend2100
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if i were you i would go to a local junkyard and have them cut off the rear qp from another 240. then just cut out what needs to be cut out from yours and panel bond the new one on. there are some skilled body guys here than can further tell you how to do that. or just go to a local shop and ask them about it. it sucks, but there isnt a snowballs chance in hell that bondo can save that.

woot. 1000 post...

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Two Fowty
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livinglegend2100 wrote:if i were you i would go to a local junkyard and have them cut off the rear qp from another 240. then just cut out what needs to be cut out from yours and panel bond the new one on. there are some skilled body guys here than can further tell you how to do that. or just go to a local shop and ask them about it. it sucks, but there isnt a snowballs chance in hell that bondo can save that.

woot. 1000 post...
what do you mean by panel bond?

livinglegend2100
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like that lord fusor stuff logan76 mentioned. panel bond is just a generic term for it

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Two Fowty
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so are you saying cut the whole qp off, or just where the damage is?

livinglegend2100
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just where the damage is. then bond the new qp onto it. if there are any edges or uneven spots, THEN you can use bondo to smoothe it out


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