smelly brakes???

[G'd up]

so i just got new brakes. after i drive i pull my car into the garage and i can smell my brakes like really potent. even if i just park in a parking lot i can smell them after a normal drive. is this normal????

[gwoods]

That is normal... just make sure you don't use more the 50% of the brake pedal for the 1st 400-500 miles so the pads can bed into the rotors.

Plan your stops leave twice as much space as you usually would

[Jacko3]

G'd up:

Gwoods is right! I smell so many different things coming from my car. If you want to answer all the unusual questions related to smell, squeaks, shakiness, sound, etc on the G-35, you will end up with a heart attack. Just love the car for all its unusual nature! I wasn't looking for a perfect ride when I bought the G-35 Coupe. I was looking for a nice ride with the sporty feel, and I got it in the G-35 Coupe.

[C-Kwik]

It's likely green fade. Essentially, resins used to bind the materials in the pads will need to burn-off or cure. This will occur normally over some period of time after the brake pads are installed. However, the process can be sped up by performing a proper bed-in procedure, which I recommend.

[G'd up]

got ya well my dad was driving the car and decided to test out the brakes by goin 50 then slamming the brakes to a very quick stop. well soon after my brakes are smoking. and im freaking out like dumbass thanks.....

[gwoods]

That is not a good way to stop on a set of new brakes.....

[Sentientbydesign]

Nice way to glaze the pads and rotors.

Tell your dad he can't drive your car anymore... Oh and pass this on for me.

[mrsmithGrider]

The previous post is right. You have to wear off the new film on the new brake pads. If you dont they will start to sqeak prematurely. With new brake pads its important to burn off that new film by going and then comin to a sudden stop a few times until you smell that film burining off. I do this every time i change my pads out and replace them and thus never hear them sqeak until its time to change them again altogether.

[G'd up]

The previous post is right. You have to wear off the new film on the new brake pads. If you dont they will start to sqeak prematurely. With new brake pads its important to burn off that new film by going and then comin to a sudden stop a few times until you smell that film burining off. I do this every time i change my pads out and replace them and thus never hear them sqeak until its time to change them again altogether.

got ya well after i got my new brakes they were deff smoking after a few hard stops and they deff smell after a hard run. and they also sqeek...... but ill see how that goes its getting better

[ArizonaG35]

The previous post is right. You have to wear off the new film on the new brake pads. If you dont they will start to sqeak prematurely. With new brake pads its important to burn off that new film by going and then comin to a sudden stop a few times until you smell that film burining off. I do this every time i change my pads out and replace them and thus never hear them sqeak until its time to change them again altogether.

Mrs. Smith,I'm a little confused by your post... are you saying that you SHOULD stomp the brakes a few times at full speed in the early stages of a brake pad's life or you SHOULD NOT do this???? I've never heard anyone recommend slamming on the brakes to burn off pad film as a healthy practice... Your brake pads will certainly burn off any factory resin within the first few stops without aggressive stopping patterns. I personally agree with GWOODS that you should gradually ease in your new brakes.

Any brake guys out there that can confirm this?

[oldandslow]

Im new here,but I can give You some advice on "bedding in new brakes"And it is normal for them to stink and smoke.Go to a street with no trafficAccelerate to 30-35 mph and apply moderate pressure to slow the car to about 25mph,let off brakes completetly,and try not to ride them.Do this 6-8 times within a few minutes.

Then accelerate to 40-45 mph and apply hard pressure to slow the car to about 25 mph, let off the brakes completely, and try not to ride them.Do this2-3 times within a few minutes.

Park your car and let it cool down for 15 minutes.Dont use Your parking brake while it is cooling down.Applying the parking brake while the brakes are hot, can warp the rotors.

[oldandslow]

Arizona G35, I checked bed in procedure on http://www.hawkperformance.com just to make sure I wasnt steering You wrong.I remembered it correctly in my old age.On the website, choose "performance street", then go to HPS performance street compound.On the bottom of the page is "bedin/burnishing instructions"direct link is http://www.hawkperformance.com...h.php

[Q45tech]

A 60 mph to zero stop will raise the rotors and pads by 140F above ambient so it takes 4-5 back to back almost full stops to reach 600-700F.

[gwoods]

Im new here,but I can give You some advice on "bedding in new brakes"And it is normal for them to stink and smoke.Go to a street with no trafficAccelerate to 30-35 mph and apply moderate pressure to slow the car to about 25mph,let off brakes completetly,and try not to ride them.Do this 6-8 times within a few minutes.

Then accelerate to 40-45 mph and apply hard pressure to slow the car to about 25 mph, let off the brakes completely, and try not to ride them.Do this2-3 times within a few minutes.

Park your car and let it cool down for 15 minutes.Dont use Your parking brake while it is cooling down.Applying the parking brake while the brakes are hot, can warp the rotors.

That is exactly how I do it.

Then for the first 500 miles I avoid using all the brake pedal. Trying not to use more then moderate pressure. I try to make my stops in 3-4 stabs of the pedal to avoid excess heat build up. Try to avoid standing on the brake pedal at lights. I bump it into neutral at red lights and take my foot off the brake.

It has been almost 500 miles since I did my brakes and they make NO noise and stop much quicker than the stock brakes.

Jeff

[Sentientbydesign]

I think powerslot has a really intense bed-in procedure. They have you do a series of high speed (60mph) down to 40. They you have lower speed braking from 35-10.

One thing I noted, is that their brake in procedure doesn't include coming to a complete stop which I think is pivotal in keeping heat down. I only followed the procedure completely the first time and I wish I did the subsequent times because those first set of brakes were amazing.

[C-Kwik]

When bedding in, you are not trying to keep heat down. You want to get the pads hot enough to cure/burn off the binding resins that contribute to green fade. You also want to leave a layer of pad material on the rotor surface itself. It won't do this as effectively at lower temperatures. With performance pads, depending on how aggressive they are, they may actually wipe off pad material at lower temperatures.

Best to follow the pad manufacturer's suggestions for the given pad.

Most street pads will bed in fine with normal driving, but green fade may persist for some time. Many mechanics will tell you to take it easy on the brakes for some period of time so that you don't get into any significant green fade and end up in an accident as a result. green fade occurs at lower temperatures than typical pad fade.

[ArizonaG35]

+1 to C-Kwik!

[C-Kwik]

"3. Green fade : When the pad is first placed in service the first few heat cycles will cause the volatile elements of the material to out gas. The process is continuous throughout the service life of the pad, but it is most pronounced in the bedding in process when the outgassed materials form a slippery layer between the pad and the disc reducing the coefficient of friction to near zero. Once the pads are bedded in out-gassing is so slow as to not be a problem unless the effective temperature range of the pad is exceeded. "

Source: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/glossary.shtml

I highly recommend reading through most of their FAQ's and whitepapers if you want some good technical brake system info.

[gwoods]

When bedding in, you are not trying to keep heat down. You want to get the pads hot enough to cure/burn off the binding resins that contribute to green fade. You also want to leave a layer of pad material on the rotor surface itself. It won't do this as effectively at lower temperatures. With performance pads, depending on how aggressive they are, they may actually wipe off pad material at lower temperatures.

Best to follow the pad manufacturer's suggestions for the given pad.

Most street pads will bed in fine with normal driving, but green fade may persist for some time. Many mechanics will tell you to take it easy on the brakes for some period of time so that you don't get into any significant green fade and end up in an accident as a result. green fade occurs at lower temperatures than typical pad fade.

So you disagree that you can get brakes too hot in the first couple hundred miles?

[Sentientbydesign]

kwik,

I have to disagree, you are correct that the pads need to completely heat cycle, but your statements sound like what gwoods mentioned.

The goal is to heat cycle, not to reach maximum operating temperatures. Powerslots' bed-in procedure is pretty intense doing 40-50 stops in 20-30 mins could cause the rotors and pads to glaze if there is no cooling in between.

[C-Kwik]

Bedding in should take into consideration the pad manufacturer's recommendation. It varies from one manufacturer to the other. However, some manufacturers take a legally conservative approach to bedding by not recommending people go accelerating and braking up and down the street. Generally, a more aggressive bed-in is better than driving around on the street normally.

I'd agree that Powerslot's recommendations are extreme. But I would not be going by their procedure as the pads are being bedded in, not the rotors manufacturer. Interestingly, while you claim Powerslot's bed in procedure to be overzealous, Tire Rack indicates power slot recommends a very conservative bed-in.

I'm not trying to suggest everyone go and overheat their brakes. I am merely pointing out that the intent is to get it up to a certain temperature. Keeping it too cool will not sufficiently eliminate green fade nor leave a sufficient layer of pad material on the rotors. The rate of temperature increase should be controlled, but not necessarily the overall temperature. Again, depends on the pad.

Not coming to a complete stop is done to prevent a thickness variation caused by leaving an imprint of pad material on the rotor where it becomes an area of higher friction than the rest of the rotor . With use, such an imprint can lead to uneven wear which usually gets misdiagnosed as rotor warp. Extended periods of driving like this or in extreme cases, you get cementite, where carbon from the pad actually imbeds into the rotor and can turn into cementite. At this point, your rotor is likely ruined. Even turning a rotor may not help as cementite wears slower than iron, which will become a high spot as the softer parts of the rotor wear down.

[Sentientbydesign]

I appologize if I've given you the impression that Powerslot's bed-in procedure is over-zealous. I was meaning to point out that it worked very well.

I thought that the Hawk procedure was truly lacking though. What's even more interesting is the difference between the Hawk procedure and the Powerslot procedure when you consider that both manufacturers point to the other as suggested "mates".

[oldandslow]

Heres some more info.A little more detailed bed in process from Wilwoodhttp://brakepads.wilwood.com/03-tech/index.htmlJeff F