first off let me just say im a noob to the jap cars so please excuse my ignorance.
im stoked on going to pick up a 280z body this weekend i believe its a 78.the motor and trans are missing so i figured why look for an l28 or whatever came in this particular z, when i could put a v8 in it (something more familiar to me). So there is a pretty little 383 sitting in my friends garage awaiting the body to roll in.
I had a couple of questions for someone whos done the swap.
1. Will the chevy's alternator wiring run off the origional?2. Can i use the stock drive shaft with a bastard joint?(im going to be running a ford t-5 trans with the chevy 383)3. How did you modify the suspension to support the weight of the v8.(mine isnt the aluminum ls-1)4. Any modifications needed in the area of steering?
small block transplant!
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!383-280z!
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- Car: 280Z with chevy 383
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evildky
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welcome
and while I haven't personally done the saap, I almost did before faling in love witht he L6, so...
1, no, theS30's al used external voltage regulatored alternators, and GM 1 wire would be easiest but a 3 wires isn't bad either, plenty of info on GM sites about wiring int he 3 wire, the 1 wire requires higher rev's to swithc on making the 3 wire the more popular choice
2. no/maybe I dunno, the popular method, is assuming your 78 was equipped with a manual gearbox, it had the R200 diff, this means you can get a spicer, or neapco adapter taht allows you to use the larger stronger domestic U joints (1310's IIRC) you'll just have to have the shaft shortened, and custome shafts aren't terribly expensiveanyway
3. the V8 is only about 50 lbs heavier than the L6, but it moves the COG back, aftermarket springs and shocks are popular, if oyu want big fat wheels coil overs give you the space for over 5" of backspace if nto the off the shlf stucff wil be fine
4. the sbc swap allws the steering to remain untouched, the ford and pentstar swaps require modification to the steering shaft for clearance fo the motor mounts
and when positioning the engines, there are 2 positions, the scarab positions (named after the company that started selling V8 swapped Z's int he 70's) which puts the V8 further forward and higher, gernerally you'll need a hood scoop for clearance
the second and more popular mounting position is the JTR (Jags That Run) mounting position, whihc mounts the engine further back and ower, better ballance you no need for a hood scoop ( althought he JTR method does involve adding a 3/8" spacer between the front crossmember and the frame rails for the extra bit of clearance
you can order the JTR book online, nt much to it but it includes the plate diagrams for setback plates and spacers, if you do the swap please post pic's and details, we love to follow other peoples projects
and while I haven't personally done the saap, I almost did before faling in love witht he L6, so...
1, no, theS30's al used external voltage regulatored alternators, and GM 1 wire would be easiest but a 3 wires isn't bad either, plenty of info on GM sites about wiring int he 3 wire, the 1 wire requires higher rev's to swithc on making the 3 wire the more popular choice
2. no/maybe I dunno, the popular method, is assuming your 78 was equipped with a manual gearbox, it had the R200 diff, this means you can get a spicer, or neapco adapter taht allows you to use the larger stronger domestic U joints (1310's IIRC) you'll just have to have the shaft shortened, and custome shafts aren't terribly expensiveanyway
3. the V8 is only about 50 lbs heavier than the L6, but it moves the COG back, aftermarket springs and shocks are popular, if oyu want big fat wheels coil overs give you the space for over 5" of backspace if nto the off the shlf stucff wil be fine
4. the sbc swap allws the steering to remain untouched, the ford and pentstar swaps require modification to the steering shaft for clearance fo the motor mounts
and when positioning the engines, there are 2 positions, the scarab positions (named after the company that started selling V8 swapped Z's int he 70's) which puts the V8 further forward and higher, gernerally you'll need a hood scoop for clearance
the second and more popular mounting position is the JTR (Jags That Run) mounting position, whihc mounts the engine further back and ower, better ballance you no need for a hood scoop ( althought he JTR method does involve adding a 3/8" spacer between the front crossmember and the frame rails for the extra bit of clearance
you can order the JTR book online, nt much to it but it includes the plate diagrams for setback plates and spacers, if you do the swap please post pic's and details, we love to follow other peoples projects