**Sluggish Under Full Boost Like The Brakes Are Applied**

[devil_child]

ok I just started having a problem with my rb20 where under full boost, the boost gauge sees 10psi but the car accelerates slower than it does at 30% throttle. wtf is going on, Im sick of this damn engine. It wont even idle right. could a exhaust leak post turbo pre o2 sensor be the problem? fricking v-bands

while im at it, other things ive searched for.

car wont start w/o pushing the accelerator pedal a couple of times while cranking. when it starts wont hold idle when cold and runs rich, then when it idles, it hunts. tried different mafs, checked wires, 20 vac, 15btdc, cleaned my maf, cleaned my iacv, tb is clean, tps is at .05 or something like that, but is all the way forward. idles high at like 900 when adjusted.

when i press lightley on the accelerator like 10% throttle, it revs to 1800, stutters and drops. tps again.

where the crap can i get a CTS for the ecu?

and what is the exact way to reset the ecu?

I spend more money on her than my girl, more time etc etc. I just gave her a fricking vlsd and this is how Im treated. I swear my car is a redhead.

done, sorry

[rustbucket]

do you have good fuel pressure?

[Suicide.Veteran]

yes the sard unit is flawless.

[240z4u]

I love readheads

Sounds like a coolant temp sensor issue. Sounds like your running rich. Rich under boost feels very sluggish.

Base FP is set correctly at 42psi with line off? I assume yes since you have a sard FPR.

How long ago did you do the swap? Your base timing may be off as well.

If you have not checked the base timing, you owe it to yourself to!

Evan

An exhaust leak should not effect WOT because the computer goes open loop during pulls. It will make for garbage part throttle and idle though.

[DJButton]

Sounds like my RB, I can't seem to set my TPS properly, it sucks, wicked bogged down when on the throttle and idles like crap till warmed up. I'm not as competant as some with using continuity to set the TPS. *cough* Carl *cough* lol

[Carl H]

tps isnt set right spec is .4-.45v give or take .05v.the real trick is to get the idle switch engaged if its not engaged when idling then it wont run right at part throttle or at idle.dont ask me why, had the same problems...fixed that and set the tps so the idle switch was engaged and it was a totaly diffrent car.

[DJButton]

Exactly Carl... now I just need to figure it out with my arch-nemesis the multi meter.

[Suicide.Veteran]

ok well i can get my tps down to .4V maxed out. is it bad?

so how do you get this idle switch engaged? is it the valve thing with the purple connector?

just did timing before this started happening, and it was at like 16 to 15.

swap is at least 2 months old.

and still how do you reset the ecu.

Ive been all over skyline australia forums, the racebread forums and nico trying to figure this crap out. but im at wits end. bout to sell srsly.

btw the multimeter can be your friend as long as you set it to the v with the solid line above it and dont check the voltage drop across your eyeball.

OH btw Im devil_child on suicides account. dumbass left his **** up
Modified by Suicide.Veteran at 8:06 PM 6/6/2007

[240z4u]

Exactly Carl... now I just need to figure it out with my arch-nemesis the multi meter.

That is absolutely hilarious!

[gawdzilla]

ok well i can get my tps down to .4V maxed out. is it bad?

so how do you get this idle switch engaged? is it the valve thing with the purple connector?

just did timing before this started happening, and it was at like 16 to 15.

swap is at least 2 months old.

and still how do you reset the ecu.

Ive been all over skyline australia forums, the racebread forums and nico trying to figure this crap out. but im at wits end. bout to sell srsly.

btw the multimeter can be your friend as long as you set it to the v with the solid line above it and dont check the voltage drop across your eyeball.

OH btw Im devil_child on suicides account. dumbass left his **** up

Modified by Suicide.Veteran at 8:06 PM 6/6/2007

the idle switch is a continuity switch so you can check it with a multimeter. its the other plug on your TPS.. has 2 wires. adjust it so it just barely comes on (continuous) when your throttle is closed. that puts your tps in ballpark too from my experience.

[devil_child]

ohhhhhhhhh icicic. so let me get this straight:

turn car on, warm up, disconnect iacv plug (brown) and adjust idle to leik umm leik 6-900. roight?

then adjust tps to where it reads somewhere close to .4-.5v at idle while making sure with the dj-button-nemesis that the idle switch is showing voltage, and if the tps voltage is all whack witht he idle switch engaged go steal a tps off my friends sentra

then set timing.

hook everything back up and I'll be good to go.

correct?

[devil_child]

come on 102 views and 11 responses bump

[Carl H]

sounds like a plan, dont disconnect the iac tho.