slow & smoking....whats wrong?

[Oneor1]

Hey guys, whats up?

Having some issues w/ my Car. 1st off.... there is no power after 3500rpms.... usually it'd be slow till about 3800 when it'd have a huge boost and get rolling, now nothing.......

at idle i have blue smoke comming out the back....took my intake tube off and has a pretty nice caking of oil all around the intake tubing. there was a little shaft play in the turbo

checked compression in all the cylinders and ran 150 across all of them.

also i checked the ECU for codes and got a code 13...(coolant temp sensor)..... i got out and checked by the thermostat and noticed a connector had come off right above the thermostat...... i checked the ECU again and the same code came up.... could my thermostat be stuck open? my car struggles to even reach "C" on the tempature gauge while driving....took a trip to philly from Richmond, VA and it barely got to the bottom of the "C"

also... does anyone know which wires on the ECU go to the o2 sensor..... my connector melted to my manifold and when it did one of the wires comming from the o2 melted all the way down the wiring harness so i was going to try and run new wires straight from the ECU to a new O2 sensor.....

i know its alot of things but any help would be appreciated.... Thanks!

Rick

[Turb0wned]

isnt blue smoke burning oil?

[f s t caz]

isnt blue smoke burning oil?

Overly rich A/F mixture will also cause blue smoke, and the overly rich state can be caused by a bad coolant temp sensor, b/c the car is programmed to run rich when its cold. If the computer never gets word that its warm, then it would always be dumping fuel, which could cause blue smoke.

[slw240sx]

overly rich will burn black smoke, ask any one whos driven behind me at any point in time!!!!!!

sounds like you need a new coolant temp senor , and a new gauge temp sender(the little black plug next to the coolant temp senor) . also you need the o2 hooked up, and check your timming . oh and a new thermostat.

i will try and find the ECU pin out page i had that showed the o2 wire.

sorry i havent responded to your IM but that SN is signed on to my phone and i never have a chance to respond since im always at work and i dont have much free time there

[Oneor1]

where do i find a coolant temp sensor to buy?? and/or sender?

also, is it located right above the thermosatat?...i checked that let me know what you find out w/ those wire diagrams.

thanks guys

[f s t caz]

overly rich will burn black smoke, ask any one whos driven behind me at any point in time!!!!!!

thats rich conditions. excessively rich conditions, such as those caused by leaking injectors or other extreme rich conditons will cause blue smoke.

[Trigger]

you can get the temp sensor from any auto parts store....just tell them its for a 88 pulsar with a 1.8 (1809) and they should have it on hand

[Trigger]

oh and for the o2 the wiring is

29 (white) Oxygen sensor input , 115 (blue) Heater output for O2 sensor , and the last wire is a power wire...not to sure where it goes but i know its brown and it runs to most every other sensor so you should have a problem finding that wire

Tim

[boost_boy]

Nissan computers feed heavily off the coolant temperature sensor. If it fails, the engine will dump huge amounts of smoke and be very hard to start. Like someone stated earier, get one from the auto parts store for an 88 pulsar SE with 1.8 litre engine.

[slw240sx]

i think all temp sensors are the same in the late 80s earlry 90 nissan cars at leaste 240s and pulsars

[pulsar gtr]

when my temp sensor was gone bad, my valves started knocking when accelerating, Not sure if yours are doing that, but that is one of the symptoms that the temps sensor cause.Also on the valve cover, you get the breather line that feeds back right after the air filter, if that line blows oil out of there, the oil will go back to the intake , through the turbo and back into the intake which results in blue smoke, and thats why you have oil on the intake tube, assuming that your turbo is good.Re-route the breather into a temporary bottle and drive the car, and see if the bottle collects any oil.

Good luck,

PULSAR GTR

[Oneor1]

Trigger you mention that the last wire is brown and goes to every other sensor.... the thing is that when my connector melted to the manifold the "brown wire" was the wire that had all the insulation melt off of it and its down to the bare wire all the way down the harness, i tried to trace the wire back in the harness but everywhere i looked it was melted up....only that one brown wire.....Could it be that wire giving me all the problems since it goes to the other sensors??? Let me know what you all think

[r34 gtr]

got here a little late, but jon, dont even try to talk about rich conditions. when the guy running the dynojet has to make a guestimate on your air/fuel ratio because its the richest he'd ever metered, then ya got a rich condition. my car didnt smoke, it shot out black soot. stuff you could hold in your hand and show to your friends.

- tim

[slw240sx]

well when your racing a turbo transam on the highway at around 90mph and the following car is a ram air trans am that cant see where he is goin cause your leaving a cloud of black smoke so dense that your killing visibilty in two lanes one car length off your bumper ,you might be a lil rich lol

[Oneor1]

Trigger you mention that the last wire is brown and goes to every other sensor.... the thing is that when my connector melted to the manifold the "brown wire" was the wire that had all the insulation melt off of it and its down to the bare wire all the way down the harness, i tried to trace the wire back in the harness but everywhere i looked it was melted up....only that one brown wire.....Could it be that wire giving me all the problems since it goes to the other sensors??? Let me know what you all think

[r34 gtr]

good lord man! that brown wire is the life blood of your car! it goes to the o2 sensor, pressure control valve solenoid and auxillary air control valve! the whole loop wasnt getting power in my car and i lost about 30-40whp because of it! same with torque. id expect it can cause any number of rediculous problems, get it fixed as soon as ya can! good luck with it, lemme know if i can help.

- tim

[r34 gtr]

oh and jon, thats pretty damn rich. mine did the same thing, just did it on occasion though as i never really reef on it. ricers here seem to stay away from the bov so i rarely ever race them.

when i do mange to race, i usually lose because the only people that like to play have pretty wicked cars. that loss to the turboII rx-7 doesnt count cuz i had no idea that that z06 motor was tuned. gay v8 powered 2600lb car.. and that guy in the crx wasnt really supposed to race me in traffic..and paul and chris' evo 8s have a good 100hp on me and awd..i should probably just stop trying.

but if it does count, i strike fear into the hearts of 80% of the ricers here. 10% dont know what that sound is and the other 10% could wipe their arses with my face, and those are the only ones i ever race, haha. i really should just stop trying to out-do you with car problems as i will never succeed. while my car has gremlins 24-7, it doesnt ever make the car un-drivable. whereas your car just hates to run. good luck on getting it back in action there boss!

- tim

[Oneor1]

hey r34 how do i go about correcting this....im not sure what all teh soleniods are or where they're located..... or where i run a new wire to when i try to re-wire it.... please let me know ASAP.....either on here or at [email protected]..... THanks man

[r34 gtr]

ok, the o2 sensor is dead easy to find, im guessing you know where it is, but its right behind the turbo in its little quasi-dp housing thingy. the pcv solenoid is right next to the ignitor, near the turbo, and the aacv is labeled clear as day right on top of the intake manifold, on the front drivers side of it. the wire can be found almost at any point on the wiring harness, so it shouldnt be too hard. good luck with it.

[Oneor1]

hey man if you have AIM please IM me at Oneor1