Ahh yes, i finally got to drive my car today for the first time in almost a month. I fought through all the bs and now when i start the car the boost gauge moves incrediably slow. Not only that but the car has no top end anymore and now "shakes" (seat of your pants feeling).
I have the gauge plumbed in as per the stickies but i feel the lack in power and the boost gauge issue must be related. I had issues during the R&R of the manifold with the butterflies sticking (hard to manually move).
Any ideas, im so close to this being 100% and this has me truely stumped
Compression 120-110-110-110
Slow Moving Boost
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boost_boy
- Posts: 7051
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- Car: B12 sentra w/built CA18DET, B12 sentra w/fully-built CA18DET, S13 coupe w/ CA18DET, S13 hatch w/CA18DET, 2002 maxima SE
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Re: Slow Moving Boost (Ca_Silvia)
Your compression #s are in "worn engine" country, but your issues sound more turbo related. Check and double check that your turbo is functioning properly.Ca_Silvia wrote:Ahh yes, i finally got to drive my car today for the first time in almost a month. I fought through all the bs and now when i start the car the boost gauge moves incrediably slow. Not only that but the car has no top end anymore and now "shakes" (seat of your pants feeling).
I have the gauge plumbed in as per the stickies but i feel the lack in power and the boost gauge issue must be related. I had issues during the R&R of the manifold with the butterflies sticking (hard to manually move).
Any ideas, im so close to this being 100% and this has me truely stumped
Compression 120-110-110-110
Dee
Re: Slow Moving Boost (boost_boy)
Oh ya i realize that, the rebuild will be done next year if she makes it. She is a track car mind you.
I just looked at the turbo, no play, no excessive oil in the intake pipes.
I took it for another drive, could it be that the butterflies are sticky enough to not be pulled open and thus choking the motor at high RPMs?
I still have no idea about the gauge though...
I just looked at the turbo, no play, no excessive oil in the intake pipes.
I took it for another drive, could it be that the butterflies are sticky enough to not be pulled open and thus choking the motor at high RPMs?
I still have no idea about the gauge though...
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Cams
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Are you sure its not the gauge that went bad? Is it mechanical or electric? If mechanical where do you have it T-ed off?
Taking a wild guess and thinking you have it off the line that goes from the plenum to the hot start solenoid, could it be possible that the Solenoid is damaged and its causing odd vaccum (fpr) response?
Ive read the Gauge shouldnt be reading off the wastegate line, so if thats your case then it needs to be changed.
More info would be helpful.
Taking a wild guess and thinking you have it off the line that goes from the plenum to the hot start solenoid, could it be possible that the Solenoid is damaged and its causing odd vaccum (fpr) response?
Ive read the Gauge shouldnt be reading off the wastegate line, so if thats your case then it needs to be changed.
More info would be helpful.
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boost_boy
- Posts: 7051
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Re: (Cams)
Hey man, get rid of the bootleg gauge and get one that works. That gauge is toast and I have seen this happen before with these cheap gauges.
Dee
Dee
Re: (boost_boy)
Ok so i just tried that. I went out started the car and no the gauge is reading nothing. Tried a megan gauge, yes a megan (but i know it was working) and still nothing.
The gauge(s) are now reading no vac, no boost, nothing. Im going to try and see if my plastic tubing is some how cut. BRB.
The gauge(s) are now reading no vac, no boost, nothing. Im going to try and see if my plastic tubing is some how cut. BRB.
Re: (Ca_Silvia)
I wouldn't even bother re-tested the compression. Either the number are still low or they come up some.. so what. if you do re-test try putting a little oil in each plug after you test them and re test with oil. This should tell you how worn your rings are.
The important thing is that they are all close to each other.
Either those gauges are broken or your reading the manifold pressure wrong. That reading from the video is wrong.
so way the engine would sound like that if the pressure was really doing that.
after you fix the gauge then you can see how much your boosting and maybe you be able to tell why it's slower than before.
The important thing is that they are all close to each other.
Either those gauges are broken or your reading the manifold pressure wrong. That reading from the video is wrong.
so way the engine would sound like that if the pressure was really doing that.
after you fix the gauge then you can see how much your boosting and maybe you be able to tell why it's slower than before.
Re: (progman)
I fixed the gauge, my suspicions were right it was a cracked line, replaced it, its all good. Boost builds till 5500rpm then starts to die out till red line and the motor feels like it is choking. No blips,shaking or anything. Just a lot of noise and no go.
Went back to boost leak testing again as i was sure i still had a leak. Sure enough i am getting no leaks except from the dip stick tube...Ok, so im pretty sure the rings are ****ed but does this mean the rings are pooched for sure?
If the rings are indeed toast, if i tear down the motor right now and do rings and bearings will it seal properly or do i have to get the block honed to get my compression back were it should be? Or does it all really depend on the condition of the cylinder walls?
Went back to boost leak testing again as i was sure i still had a leak. Sure enough i am getting no leaks except from the dip stick tube...Ok, so im pretty sure the rings are ****ed but does this mean the rings are pooched for sure?
If the rings are indeed toast, if i tear down the motor right now and do rings and bearings will it seal properly or do i have to get the block honed to get my compression back were it should be? Or does it all really depend on the condition of the cylinder walls?
I found this online make sense about the air leak from the dipstick.
"Assuming you did your boost leak test from the turbo's inlet, the pressure probably bled off into either the oil feed line or or drain line both of which have a path to the crankcase. As long as your turbo is in good condition (little to no shaft play), the turbo will seal that leak once oil is circulated and the turbo is spinning."
"Assuming you did your boost leak test from the turbo's inlet, the pressure probably bled off into either the oil feed line or or drain line both of which have a path to the crankcase. As long as your turbo is in good condition (little to no shaft play), the turbo will seal that leak once oil is circulated and the turbo is spinning."
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biosehnsucht
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well if you were leaking from the busted boost gauge line, that caused most of the boost problems too.
you could also leak from the manifold to the crankcase via the PCV valve if it's stuck open.
if you really want to know if the compression is toast, retest it properly, and test a second time with the little bit of oil dropped in the spark plug hole into the cyl to check for the rings being worn... also, doing it warmed up will help.
you could also leak from the manifold to the crankcase via the PCV valve if it's stuck open.
if you really want to know if the compression is toast, retest it properly, and test a second time with the little bit of oil dropped in the spark plug hole into the cyl to check for the rings being worn... also, doing it warmed up will help.
Finally some good ****in news!
dry wet135-135135-137127-130130-130
#'s came up did some more boost leak testing and it still is showing no leaks. I tested the pressure specifically around the air regulator, nothing i could notice however im still going to change it because i saw it leaking once before.
Changed my fuel pump to my Walbro i had laying around and im going to check my timing. Its the only thing i can think of now that could possibly taper off the power in the high rpm. The boost thing still has me stumped.
dry wet135-135135-137127-130130-130
#'s came up did some more boost leak testing and it still is showing no leaks. I tested the pressure specifically around the air regulator, nothing i could notice however im still going to change it because i saw it leaking once before.
Changed my fuel pump to my Walbro i had laying around and im going to check my timing. Its the only thing i can think of now that could possibly taper off the power in the high rpm. The boost thing still has me stumped.