slow and go!! stomp and goes crazy...

[bentsprocket]

Ok here we go!!!!

I recently replaced the timing chain in my 93 240 KA24DE. The car ran great before it was just time to do some routine work on it. I replaced the stock intake with an Injen, 3" catback, obx short shifter, replaced the spark plugs, wires, and cap plus rotor button. I put in a new clutch and new seals all through out the car top to bottom. Now to the problem it's been having first after all the work was done above. I went to start it. It started but it was out of time bad so I put it in time went to eat and came back for round 2. I lost!!!! The car would not start. I double checked everything from vac lines to elec connectors all were good. I gave up not having a FSM (I know shame on me got one coming). I ended up taking it to someone my old man says is good and stands behind his work. Well he got it started and I picked it up and low and behold it ran like crap. He said the coolant temp sensor was grounded out. Anyway it runs sort of. Now the idle is bobbing and the car backfires alittle runs like crap still. Anyways stuck a timing light on it was 50' BTDC imagine that no wonder huh. Anyhow I was thinking it's fixed. Nope but runs alot better and gas mileage greatly improved. But still not herself!! She has got a clean AIV retrieved that info from you guys thanks but wasn't that. Changed catalyst converter not it either. Used injector cleaner help alot but still not up to par. THE SYMTOMS ARE AS FOLLOWS NOW. When you let the car idle it loads up and tries to fload itself. That takes about 4 mins to do if you let it idle for a second after starting cold or warmed up. I can slowly press the gas and it revs fine if you put the pedal to metal it goes f***ing crazy spits sputters then catchs up with a black exhaust cloud. Its does this from 750 to 2250 rpms after that it's fine. Also power is lost have to gear down now to climb small hills on interstate and can't pass anyone. If you understand this then please help me and my car. I love it to much and don't won't to start to look for another means of transportation IE HONDA I would rather push a nissan b4 driving a honda. I have a TPS but haven't installed it yet. Also new fuel filter. Well thanks for the time and reading into my problems any replies would help. Thanks bentsprocket:helpacceleration gremlins

[NISTECH]

check air flow harness , check airflow meter it self. recheck the coolant temp sensor and connector.

[NISTECH]

your air flow should measure around 1.4 volts at idle

[bentsprocket]

Ok I just checked the car again it idle's better totally cold me mistake with a little bobbing like 750 down to 725rpm. Weird!! I checked the coolant temp sensor and harness. when I pulled it off it reved up to about 1100 and then dropped to 750 and started it bobbing again. I checked the Maf harness the voltage was 14 volts on(left to right) pins 1 and 3. 2 was ground. The car really idled bad as expected. When it was hooked back up it leveled out. I don't understand? I test drove it and it idle's better 750 down to 675 maybe just 700 kinda hard to tell with stock gauge. But if you let it idle long it still loads up. Also still not right in the power department. Is there an air temp sensor on the car I was asked by the mech if I had taken one off to put on Intake. I didn't take any sensors off but curious cause the parts store asked me the same and Chilton's suck and didn't tell me anything about one.

[pstickne]

<off_topic>Have you been in a new[er] up-model Honda Accord?Those things are nice :-)</off_topic>

[nolaws4evr]

I beleive Ive read that 95 was the first year they included the air intake temp sensor, but even then its not supposed to hurt or hinder anything unplugged. But to answere your question, no you dont have one and also check all your air and vaccum hoses for leaks. sounds like that might be the problem.

Josh

[NISTECH]

you check your air flow voltage while its plugged in. i believe it is the white wire. it should read 1.4 volts at idle. it may have a leaking fuel injector as well best way to check is to unbolt the rail from the intake. cycle the key from off to on injectors should give a quick burst then shut off. if one or more of them continue to pour out fuel you have a leaking injector.

also when you say you checked your timing did you check the chain timing on the gears when you did this?

about the intake air temp sensor. some of the earlier 240's with california emissions had this sensor. look on your underhood emission label. it will have a paragraph on it that reads something like " this vehicle conforms to us epa regulations and california emissions standards blah blah blah" if that paragraph says anything about california in it its got california emissions. but if the sensor was disconnected it should set the check engine light.

[bentsprocket]

Well I've done everything that is posted here and now I take my car to the dealership to put on machine. Hopefully, it will tell me what's going on plus more. I update once I am back. BTW thanks for the info on the temp sensor and all the other good info.

[leper421]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by bentsprocket "] 3" catback

3" exhaust on a non-turbo 4-cylinder could be part of your power problem. Bigger is not better. Your low end power just took a big dump.

Anyways stuck a timing light on it was 50' BTDC imagine that no wonder huh.

I assume you are exagerating here... The marking only go from -5 to 20. I dont think the car would even start at 50 degrees BTDC.

I have a TPS but haven't installed it yet. Also new fuel filter.

If the fuel filter falls into the 'not-installed-yet' category, then do it now, it may help some of your problems.

[bentsprocket]

That happened to be a rough estimate on the timing it was past the marks you got me! However, it was far off and the fuel filter has been put on. Also the tps had not been tightened down from the last mech whom worked on it and it backed off. 1k closed, wot 8.5k. That has been set in limits. None-the-less, Your right about the 3" catback. I don't not have enough back pressure found that out today. I will be figuring something out about that. There went that money unless someone knows some kinda way to create some. Anyways, its at the dealership on the cpu and testing a (used) JWT ecu I got from a local. I update later on with more.... Also does anyone know of a tunable baffle? Thanks again for the help and info.. leper421 appreciate the info on the catback.

[420SEX]

Mine did the same things your is doing except mine isn't driveable, I gutted the cat and used a sock as my intake(with the MAF still attached) and it ran like crap jumping up and down until it flooded itself and would die. I re-installed the stock filter and no more running lean with black gas clouds coming out the tail pipe. Just my .02, good luck figuring it out.

[420SEX]

Sorry I left this out, but they are correct on not having enough back pressure for the NA car. If you had turbo, 3" would be very helpful.

Did you gut your catalytic converter? If so, you may want to purchase another one that is less restrictive. Also I've heard something about MIL eliminators? Not sure what they are and haven't checked it out, but if you hear something about the eliminators, please post it.

[bentsprocket]

Ok guys here it is straight out. The problem was when my brother and I replaced the timing chain. The bottom tensioner was defected and when I started the car for the first time it held cause that's where we set it and it will not jump time once in motion. However, when I shut the car off that's when it jumped time on the bottom chain. one tooth. So if you read above you can see that the forum works and people here are really helpful. The place I got the timing chain is thepartsbin.com so beware. I informed them and they just said thanks. So much for helping with the bills it cost me. I had to pay for a new nissan timing chain set. I don't care though cause it brought my car back to life. Now for the technical side if it jumped one tooth it is possible to have a car 50' BTDC cause you compensating for the timing being off at the bottom the results in a 240sx running like a Honda. I even got the 3" catback thing fixed now I am running a tunable exhaust muffler and it creates the correct amounts of back pressure to the desired amount if you know what I mean. So that works. I also got my JWT ecu installed cheese and rice that is a great investment. My dino will be posted at another link in a couple of days when it's up and running. It's at 170bhp and 176ft lbs of touque with cold air intake, JWT ecu, pacesetter header and 3" catback with tunable exhaust. I am very happy with the performance now!! I have other stuff added but nothing that helps engine performance. Except stickers that add 5hp each one. No really that is all and I post pics later of my car. Thanks guys I learned alot. One key thing to learn from my adventure just cause the piston is TDC and the cams on top are lined up visibly doesn't mean the bottom is lined up. I think someone has a post on a easy way to check it but for me I would rather take off the whole front part of the engine I just didn't have the time and tools anymore to do it. I can't say enough that the people on here are great. Thanks guys. Bentsprocket

[bentsprocket]

one update pacesetter sux hotshot is on now!!!