Just had an alignment and a rotate/balance on my '92 Q, and the steering has quite a bit of play in it, esp. at low speeds.

The only thing I can see that might be wrong is that the end bushings on the tie rods are a little worn out. I was at T-3 Decatur today and the tech there (forgot his name) thought they looked normal.

(But Decatur T-3 isn't as picky, of course).

The tension rods are relatively new, the upper links are OK, both steering rack boots were replaced about 2 years ago, fluid level fine, and fluid is fresh, mostly Mobil 1 ATF (via turkey baster exchange).... but I'm wondering if there are any other factors to consider?? I have a feeling just replacing the end bushings won't take all the play out of the wheel.

Dennis: are there any ways to tighten up the steering by adding washers or something??

I'll order the end bushings from Scottsdale and replace them sometime in Sept. Any other parts I should replace at the same time which might help?

The rack pinion gear wears, after the inner and outer tie rods are replaced I can adjust the preload in fine increments [better done in cold weather] as the rack will bind up.....the trick is to use a gauge [0-15 and 0-75 lbs] to set the steering wheel force vs slop. They don't have the experience in Decatur only I have ever done it successfully without serious problems in cold weather.Bobby of Troncalli, [thenT3], now Troncalli again is the only dealer tech I would trust. We spent a few days 3 years ago working out a viable proceedure.We were speaking of this the other day concerning the problems of cheap rebuilt racks and customers not wanting to pay money to get the job done right ---- then complaining about feel.

The pinion in the rack can be replaced for around $300......rebuilt non factory racks never get a new pinion too expensive ! So they have excessive movement but usually less than the worn out rack they replace so the customer thinks things are fine for a few years then the problem returns.

Fully described in the ST section of your shop manual.

Takes a hour and half [$100] to get it right as the car is adjusted on the lift and then driven then back on the lift, readjusted, etc. etc. in like 10 degree increments up to a maximum of 50 degrees but the rack sliding force must not exceed 66 pounds and the steering wheel 9 pounds.

I recommend you find Infiniti Bullentin IBT94-80 it outlines how and what on any vibration problems. It even explains that tires with Nylon safety caps flat spot in 15 minutes and owners must put up with it for the first 15 minutes in the morning!

All my obsessive things are outline in a normal proceedure that never gets done at dealers because it would take 4-5 hours and who will pay $300 to be told their tires/wheels are the problem and will have to be replaced.

Although David at Gwin Infinity is doing it on the new 2002 Q they have sold they had a pile of bad tires and wheels the last time I was there.

The Lexus has a horizontal shock absorber across the right tie rod and rack to dampen the vibration and wear caused by rough road edges thus the racks last longer [if owners maintain the fluids and wheel balance].

Also need to measure wheel bearings and hubs for lateral [in.out play] the spec is 0.002". Many times the lower arm [traverse link] has worn bushings that are covered up to some extent by the tension rod and the sway bar [forming a bisected triangle] if the sway bar end link bushing is worn the whole assembly quivers back and forth under toe load and road load it may start the vibration.

Tightening the preload just rigidizes the inside end allowing extra wear on the wheel end components......kind of a self fulfilling problem .

None of these things were designed to still be in spec at 100k much less 200k.

Ever wondered why one has to readjust the toe at each alignment? I'll bet you could drive around the block and put it back on the rack and it would be out again unless all new were installed!

To some extent this problem is caused by the rack being located behind the wheel centerline as BMW and Lexus SC have the rack in front .........all part of the Q protective understeer set up for novice drivers.But if the rack was more rigid the tires would be even more stressed.

Thanks!

I'll replace the outer tie rods and then get the alignment checked again and see if it improves.

I'm sure the old rack is contributing to this.... and the bushings are plenty old too. Front sway bar bushings were replaced recently.

I'll let you know when I make an appointment so you can play with my car if you've got time!

Was your steering rack ever replaced?

Still the Jan 1990 rack but I'm nearing the end it just won't leak to justify replacement @ $700

Suggest you check the rack bushings, these will give you a feeling of play when they wear out. Also if you have someone turn the wheel back and forth while you look at the rack and steering underneath you might spot some abnormal movement.