slave cylinder and a personal request of NISTECH
slave cylinder and a personal request of NISTECH
I am having problems with it being extremely hard to get my car in gear, so I am going to replace the slave cylinder and bleed the system tomorrow. My only question being on bleeding the system. I have the fluid and the slave. I did a search and came up with nothing I wanted to see. I need to know exactly how to bleed the clutch hydrolics. The slave cylinder should be a straight up install I'm assuming. Also, NISTECH. I went to my local nissan dealer and picked up two of those injector pig tail connectors. They only had two and said htey couldnt get me any more than that. I would like to know a site that I can order them if I can paypal you the money for 2 connectors and you just send them to me. I am pretty in need of them. THe car is smoother, but cylinder 2 and 1 still need to have those connectors replaced. Thank you.
try to email me your mailing address through my profile. Let me know when you do so I can see if it went through. I have had others here tell me it doesnt work sometimes. I will see what I can come up with. I am not sure who our parts department is getting them from but we have a variety of them depending on the key orientation. look at the connector from the harness side with the key notch up.,which side is the key oriented to or is it dead center?
the bleeding proceedure for a 240 is still a real pain the easiest way to do it is to use a pair of pinch off pliers "that lock pinched" and pinch off the rubber line going to the slave before you remove the slave from the line. once its pinched off just loosen the hose at the slave no need to twist your hose up so dont try to remove the hose completely from the slave yet. remove the 2 bolts holding the slave on the trans then spin the slave off the hose. take your new slave loosen the bleeder screw and the plug where the line goes. Compress the rod into the slave [now this part is teadious but it will save you a bunch of time bleeding providing the rest of your lines arent full of air already]. while its compressed hold it so the bleeder screw is at the highest point possible but so you can still pour fluid in the line port. add fluid to it then draw it into the slave by slightly releasing the pressure on the rod once all that fluid is gone add more. keep doing this till it wont take any more fluid in. then cap it off and tighten the bleeder finger tight. take it under the car and thread it onto the hose spin till it stops. then back it off a little[ about a 1/4 turn] now hold it so the line is at the highest point in relation to the slave. squeeze the slave till fluid starts coming out at the line fitting. quickly snug the slave on the line but do not releave the pressure your putting on the rod. reach your other hand up so you can release the pinch off pliers.all in one simitanious move release the pliers and release the pressure on the rod. All this will keep any air in the system created during the R&R process of the slave in the slave cyl. now to remove any air drawn into the slave cyl you need to lift the slave cyl up so that the bleeder screw is at the highest point and the hose to the slave is below the slave cyls main body. reach up and unscrew the slave bleeder. allow fluid to gravity bleed for a few seconds. this will remove any of the air trapped in the slave from the process.now attach the slave back to the trans with the 2 14mm bolts, and tighten both the hose and the bleeder properly.
This is not the procedure listed in the book or in any manual I have ever read. That procedure I came up with my self using the simple laws of physics [ air traped in fluid will not travel down] I have used this procedure many times and have almost never had to bleed the hydrolic system doing it.
since your pedal is already soft you could have air in other place in the system. that dampner loop under the passenger floor board can make the 240 clutch bleed a complete nightmare. if you have air in the system it is best to get the front of the car up as high as safely possible to do it. You may end up having to open the valve on the loop and have a second person pump the hell out of the pedal while its open and catch it on a down stroke when you close the valve.
This is not the procedure listed in the book or in any manual I have ever read. That procedure I came up with my self using the simple laws of physics [ air traped in fluid will not travel down] I have used this procedure many times and have almost never had to bleed the hydrolic system doing it.
since your pedal is already soft you could have air in other place in the system. that dampner loop under the passenger floor board can make the 240 clutch bleed a complete nightmare. if you have air in the system it is best to get the front of the car up as high as safely possible to do it. You may end up having to open the valve on the loop and have a second person pump the hell out of the pedal while its open and catch it on a down stroke when you close the valve.
the install was successful but the transmission still wont go into gear. Took it into the shop. The slave pushes the clutch fork in out and and they said the clutch and the transmission itself is good. They shimmed somethingand were in the procss of getting my transmission back on and the cross member bolted back on. Ill know tomorrow what became of that.
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Nismo_Freak
- Posts: 10314
- Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 10:42 pm
- Car: 89 Nissan 240SX
An easier way to bleed the clutch lines would be to have 3 people present, 1 person on the clutch, 1 person adding fluid to master, and 1 person opening/closing the bleed fitting.
This works well in two ways... 1. it allows you to replace the often overlooked clutch fluid and 2. it bleeds the clutch quick w/ 3 people.
I bled my system dry, removed the sludge of crap that gathered at the bottom of my clutch master cylinder resevoir. And drained the old fluid out which was pretty dark after 140k and 8 yrs of usage. Must say the clutch acts nicely now... well after I adjusted the piston out a good .25" since it was acting like an automatic lol. All I had to do to go was let off the brake haha. Stupid car.
This works well in two ways... 1. it allows you to replace the often overlooked clutch fluid and 2. it bleeds the clutch quick w/ 3 people.
I bled my system dry, removed the sludge of crap that gathered at the bottom of my clutch master cylinder resevoir. And drained the old fluid out which was pretty dark after 140k and 8 yrs of usage. Must say the clutch acts nicely now... well after I adjusted the piston out a good .25" since it was acting like an automatic lol. All I had to do to go was let off the brake haha. Stupid car.