The stock belt DOES NOT WORK! I'm going to be finding a belt this weekend so I will report back with that info.
You do re-use the stock bolt and everything though so no change there.

THE STOCK ALTERNATOR/WATER PUMP BELT DOES WORK. I didnt think it was going to but did some brainstorming and made it fit. Just wanted to clear that up

Damn, after seeing that alternator, I want to let other ppl know to use the Quest alternator. Same plug as stock, same bolt spacing on the lower mount as stock. I did have to build a new tensioner bracket (Easy if you have a cutting torch, some steel and a grinder) and swap the stock pulley over to the Quest alternator.

I basically went off the information I found on the "CA18.5DET Build" Thread. He never really came back and said how it worked and this and that so I just gave in and decided to do it and bought everything. At least now people will know what they are getting into lol

Ryan, didn't you say with The Quest alternator you had to grind some of the oil pump/block off to make it fit?

Oh yea, I did. I forgot about that. We're not talking much though. I think I did it with a hand file and it took me about 5 minutes. An angle grinder would have done it in 30 seconds.

That is why I didn't want to take that route. I didn't feel comfortable altering the oil pump/block mounting point.

Here is the bracket I "fabricated". This bracket is originally from my CXRacing S14 SR20DET Intercooler kit. The Setup works.

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mv ... _Code=BRKT <-- incase anyone doesn't like to make things you could buy this...

Well done. I'm getting less and less afraid of fabricating my own brackets for various projects.

sjbsuperman1425 wrote:That is why I didn't want to take that route. I didn't feel comfortable altering the oil pump/block mounting point.

You don't grind the mounting point so much as the OUTSIDE of it. And it worked without the grinding, it just rubbed and made the alternator hard to tighten/loosen, so I ground a little off. I could have just as easily ground the outside of the alternator housing as well. Honestly, I think it's a casting thing. It may clear on another CA18 block/Quest alternator. I didn't do anything that wouldn't let me go back to stock in the time it would take to change an alternator.

I'm not arguing, I just don't want somebody else to read this and think the Quest alternator was hard to do or required modifying anything besides building a tensioner.

I didn't even think of trying my buddies quest alternator first that he has on his RB25...I has the dumbz...

I know you're not arguing also lol It's those little bits of info that I always try to add to the forum because I search for the most minute things that NOBODY really covers. So I'm glad you are saying your words!

Over the weekend, I had to make an exhaust bracket for by the trans mount, a bracket for the intercooler, and just fill it with fluids, change oil, change trans fluid. Finally made the initial start up last night. Had some lifter tick at first and a noise with the front cover but looks like it's all worked out. Timing is set to 10* BTDC. For the first time in a LOOOONNNG time, the ignition timing is finally correct. Cannot wait to put insurance on it this week and start driving.

woot! Vids are a must. Any plans for dyno time?

I will get a vid posted! There is a guy around town that is supposed to be getting a dyno soon so I'll get a free couple hours on that, since we are good business friends. I'm just excited to actually feel the car drive with the correct timing now lol Never experienced it before!

Well I put insurance on the car last night and drove it into work this morning. I have the base timing set at 10*BTDC and it just feels kind of sluggish and doesn't run the best. Going to change it to 15*BTDC and see if it likes that better. From what I've read that's basically what the CA loves is 15* so we shall see.

Just to ask, is everyone going by the JDM 10* and EDM 15* information now?

Well, I have a JDM CA18 but it runs so much better and stronger on 15*BTDC than 10*... Oh well, its awesome to feel it again!

s*** thing is, my HKS EVC-S might have crapped out on me today, which is a $400 I was not planning on and not happy to spend, but I'm biting the bullet..because racecar.

I have a standalone, but I've always thought the CA (with the 8 port head and the 4 port head, I've had both) liked 15° at idle better.

float_6969 wrote:I have a standalone, but I've always thought the CA (with the 8 port head and the 4 port head, I've had both) liked 15° at idle better.

I agree. Much more driveability and low end than at 10*.

I also fixed my boost controller tonight..stupid me had one of the wires pinched between some metal...no damage though.

Nice, I'll alway take a dunce cap over money out of my wallet!

Well it's that time of year again.. Car is put away and time to create more debt so I can have fun in the sun!

Basically I've done some research and looked at the dyno numbers on our page here because I am replacing the clutch and turning the boost up. I already have the Z32 MAF and 550cc injectors with Nistune to tune it with but I'm kind of looking for some feedback on my clutch choice.

My plan is, as of now, to buy a Spec Stage 2+ Clutch. Holds 330lb-ft torque and is still full face clutch. I have driven my friends RB25 with a ACT 6-puck and I don't care for the feel of it, whether it be the 6 puck clutch or just how heavy the pedal feel is on it. I'm really just looking to see others opinions on clutch choice. It's a decent price, holds decent torque, and is a full face. The factors are a S14BB T28 on up to 18psi, Tomei Poncams, 550cc injectors, and Z32 MAF. I'm pretty sure I won't exceed the clutch's holding power with this setup.

Thanks in advance!

Those are about my only two choices, lol. I personally love the ACT 6 puck with a sprung hub in my Pulsar. Has a ton of bite when you drop it, and is very responsive and IMO, easy to handle with consistent moderate pedal effort and linear engagement. I would always choose this for high power builds or if I have the extra money to blow.

Otherwise I'd go with a Spec stage 2+. I've never driven on one, but I had their stage 3 4-puck clutch and it did the job when I had the CA16 tranny. The price is right so I would trust it as a budget clutch. I'd imagine it can take a lot of abuse since I think they use the same pad material as the stage 3. Lord knows my Spec took some abuse, and handled it like a champ.

I really want to try a clutch with a solid hub, though. I hear they're almost impossible to street, but I just don't believe they can be much more difficult than their sprung counterpart. I wanna know of everyone else are just whiney little babies that need to practice pedal control, lol.

I have a Spec Stage 2. Hold my torque just fine and our setup seems the same. I have 215 tires and 18 psi on a T28. A Stage 2+ will be fine.

Thanks for the input guys. Helps me out greatly. Spec Stage 2+ it is!

I'm not going for crazy horsepower. Have I max out this setup with whatever I can muster out of it, I'll probably start focusing on body work and building the KA I have in the garage.

I know I'm in a bit late on this, but if it helps to support your decision, I ran a Spec Stage3+ on basically the same setup and it was still streetable. The 2+ should be more streetable and still hold the power.

a little update on this winter's project, I just dropped $253 on some NISMO CA specific motor mounts.. I pulled the engine last Tuesday and the motor mounts were completely broke. But, what do you expect for 25 year old OEM mounts.

After pulling the transmission off the engine, and this is the first time I have done this since swapping in the engine back in 2008, I revealed a 100% OEM clutch and flywheel combo. The clutch was just starting to get into the rivets so it lasted just about as long as it could have. Very pleased with the OEM clutch. Just waiting now to order the SPEC Stage 2+ Clutch and figure out whether to buy the OEM Gasket Kit from FRSport or to just piece the gaskets together from online OEM Nissan Parts sellers. Either way, I'm pretty excited.

I love my CA specific NISMO mount. I think you'll be happy with them too. Did you replace the transmission mount too? If not, you should. It helps with the shifter bouncing around.

I replaced it a couple years back with a Peak Performance "Red" mount. But, since it doesn't have the bracket for the exhaust, I found a company in Australia that made one and was willing to ship it to me for only $15USD so I can retain the bracket! I'm thinking my broken motor mounts might have been part of the reason why my turbo elbow keeps cracking?

Yea, I would say that's THE reason.

SPEC Stage 3 clutch here, way more streetable than the ACT kit that is supposed to be in my S2k.

Have you used the car at all with the Nistune/Injectors/MAF kit yet? I noticed you bought the Isis MAF and was wondering if you have any feedback on it.

I am putting the injectors and wiring the MAF in this winter. I did sell the ISIS MAF because of bad reviews and such though..I'm going to be buying a BOSCH unit from AutoZone in the coming months.