I just made my mind up to start a KA-T projectHeres the setup i plan to go with and my goal is around 250 HP
Freshly Rebuilt KA24DE98' Pistons (heard they were a little stronger than the S13 pistons)Eagle RodsACL Coated Race bearingsARP HardwareEither Cometic or Fel pro head gasketFreshly Rebuilt head with all OEM partsStock SR Injectors?Either T-25 or T-28 Turbo (or do you have any others that you recommend?)Either Stock MAF or Z32 mafWalbro Fuel pump Z32 Fuel filterAftermarket Fuel pressure Regulator?(is this needed? lol)
For tuning im thinking about going with a JWT drop in tuned ECU.. What do you think about that? And if theres anything im missing up there let me know i really dont know much about ka-t and just started looking into this.How reliable do you think this would be?
Simple reliable KA-T setup
Re: Simple reliable KA-T setup (OM3GA)
As reliable as you build it man. Use quality parts and put it together right and you should be fine.
Few things. What kind of budget are you working with?
For 250 hp you could just do stock rods. They are good till 300-350.
Dont bother with a t25. IMO, dont bother with a t2 flange at all unless your on a serious budget. Borg warner makes incredible turbos, hell, there are a ton of great turbos out there right now. For your hp goals, i would go with a 50 trim t3/t4 stage 3 turbine wheel .48 ar exhaust housing.
For 250 hp, go with a z32 maf. I mean since your going for a ROM tune anyway, might as well.
With a upgraded fuel pump, you really need to get a performance FPR. The results from a stock FPR and the Walbro arnt pretty. Your fuel pressure stays inconsistent, with ~5 psi spikes, ect. It also will fail prematurely, although, it will still last a while.
Also, do yourself a favor and buy some new injectors. If your turboing a Ka, the smallest you want to go is 550cc IMO. Iv had two sets of Denso/Sard injectors and they both flow tested perfect. Would recommend them to anyone.
Other than that, build looks fine. GL.
Few things. What kind of budget are you working with?
For 250 hp you could just do stock rods. They are good till 300-350.
Dont bother with a t25. IMO, dont bother with a t2 flange at all unless your on a serious budget. Borg warner makes incredible turbos, hell, there are a ton of great turbos out there right now. For your hp goals, i would go with a 50 trim t3/t4 stage 3 turbine wheel .48 ar exhaust housing.
For 250 hp, go with a z32 maf. I mean since your going for a ROM tune anyway, might as well.
With a upgraded fuel pump, you really need to get a performance FPR. The results from a stock FPR and the Walbro arnt pretty. Your fuel pressure stays inconsistent, with ~5 psi spikes, ect. It also will fail prematurely, although, it will still last a while.
Also, do yourself a favor and buy some new injectors. If your turboing a Ka, the smallest you want to go is 550cc IMO. Iv had two sets of Denso/Sard injectors and they both flow tested perfect. Would recommend them to anyone.
Other than that, build looks fine. GL.
Keep the stock rods and go forged pistons. KA-T's don't like CA heat and 91 pee water.
A good bolt on setup would be a Megan T2 manifold and SR turbo elbow with SR downpipe and a T28 off a s14/s15 or GTi-R. Should be good for 300whp with massive response. I believe this would be the ulimate simple setup without having to worry about wastegate plumbing, custom dp... etc
If you wanna go topmount then get a JGS manifold and a cheap a** 50trim with a 38mm wastegate and you should be good.
A good bolt on setup would be a Megan T2 manifold and SR turbo elbow with SR downpipe and a T28 off a s14/s15 or GTi-R. Should be good for 300whp with massive response. I believe this would be the ulimate simple setup without having to worry about wastegate plumbing, custom dp... etc
If you wanna go topmount then get a JGS manifold and a cheap a** 50trim with a 38mm wastegate and you should be good.
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WDRacing
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Re: (sunnys14)
In this instance I could use a T28 and probably be happy. Just so long as I never wanted to expand later.
IMO, if you're ever removing the head you should use a 2mm copper headgasket. It'll never blow and you'll lower the static compression by about .5. Which is a much friendlier number for boost.
Just my .02
IMO, if you're ever removing the head you should use a 2mm copper headgasket. It'll never blow and you'll lower the static compression by about .5. Which is a much friendlier number for boost.
Just my .02
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MOUNTAINATTACK
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Re: (WDRacing)
I would stay away from a T25, its just a hair dryer on a ka.
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a240sxpinoy
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