Silvia Digital Climate control Instructions................

Post by **240_ESEX** » Mon Jan 22, 2007 7:33 pm

Oh thanks again for the parts apidog. There's nothing to upload on here.

Post by **240_ESEX** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 1:20 pm

Still don't know where the back end of the aspirator hose connects to. I know what to do with the cabin air temp side, but not the other end. I've got everything hooked up and the DCC does everything correctly, but one problem. There is always air blowing through the vents, except for when the car's off. Even if I have the car in just accessory, if the DCC is turned off, or if the DCC is disconnected it's still blowing air. And the DCC functions fully except for that and changeing the fan speeds, its always full blast. It does go through the different modes, changes temps, AC works, defroster works, turns off, but just doesn't turn off the air or control is spees. I put it through diagnostics mode (Test 2) and it recognizes all the sensors, so it know they're all there, and also the mode door motor test (#3), and thats all good. Sorry for the book guys, but it's almost there and thats the only problem. One more thing I have to say though is that i didn't install the thermo amp controller cause Beatupsx didn't use one either in his install and his worked completely fine. Thanks

Post by **SpeedRacer1** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 2:20 pm

You probably have the blower wiring mixed up somewhere. As for the aspirator hose, that is supposed to be hooked up to the heater core box. It is meant to detect the temperature of the air blowing into the passenger compartment, that way the AUTO climate control will know what temp the cabin is at. There is no hole or spot on the heater core for that hose so you will just have to put it somewhere or rig it into a vent somehow.

Post by **05civse** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 4:24 pm

Although there is spot that has the little triangle slot outlined (it is cut at the factory for the JDM DCC cars as shown in apidog's pic of where it connects to the mix door box thing) but it will be on the left side instead of the right. If you use that spot the hose will face into the drivers foot area instead of into the middle of the dash. You could cut the outline out in a mirror image possibly and it may work. I was using a JDM aspirator, so it may be opposite for RHD where the aspirator out of the USDM cars may fit correctly... If that made any sense at all.

Post by **240_ESEX** » Fri Jan 26, 2007 10:43 am

Still lost on where to mount the back end of the aspirator hose. Does anyone have a picture of where theirs is? Charlie2020, have you gotten that list of fan control amps that will work with our DCC's? I was sure it would work, but i'm starting to think that might be my problem. I found the only way to turn it off is if disconnect the harness from it, or have the car off, turning the DCC off doesn't do anything, it remains on. And if i connect the one that came in the US 240 it doesn't work at all either.

Post by **iiymij** » Fri Feb 02, 2007 10:32 am

alright a freaking update on how it's going with my swap so far.

Almost everything works and I'm just happy I haven't fried anything. So big problems I'm having right now, my blower speeds don't change.

- I'm using a JDM blower resistor (M50) on page 9- I have no idea where to connect my blue and red wire up to as there's one that goes to the (M50) plug and then there's one that goes to the motor plug as well?

My air mix door, I know you guys have some great pictures and I really appreciate it, but I have a long white tube that goes all the way to the DCC unit and on my original air door mix it has some wierd track on it and well let me get some pix to help explain =P

*added some other smaller things, when I turn on my lights my DCC goes super dim, my intermittent wipers aren't working right now (just the first setting down and how i control it with the knob at the end, but the second notch down works?) and my deck is out of order but for the deck I'm pretty sure it is due to the shotty job down on the deck install

Modified by iiymij at 10:51 PM 2/2/2007
Modified by iiymij at 12:43 AM 2/3/2007

Post by **iiymij** » Fri Feb 02, 2007 9:14 pm

Is this the motor I'm supposed to replace with the rod linkage thing? It sure looks like it was in the spot to adjust but something is just not adding up right now.

It looks like this but it's on some wierd track?

Now this track here goes in and out but I put in the analogue one back in and went through all the blower settings and this never moves?

The white tube that controls the temperature is way too long, do I bend it back and then use the arm linkage?

Post by **240_ESEX** » Sat Feb 03, 2007 1:58 pm

What I did was take out that Max Cold Relay you have pictured and mounted the Air Mix Door Motor pretty much where it was. I left that linkage that the Max Cold Relay connects to alone and my JDM motor just sits under it. As for the white tube with the cable, I left it alone too. But have the JDM Motor is connected to the lever that the cable links too.

Post by **iiymij** » Sat Feb 03, 2007 3:38 pm

Thanks for the response, I'll find some time to get all the way back there as I still don't have that linkage and I need to make my own. As for the blower setting it's just constantly on, even in ignition mode. My off button just turns off the unit lights.

Where did you hook up the that red blue wire for your DCC? I'm using a OEM plug for the motor resistor and the motor? Is it supposed to splice into one of those wires there?

Some small things that are kind of bugging me I guess, my DCC goes super dim when i turn on my headlights and my wiper doesnt work on the first notch down, solved when I plug in the blue red wire?

So close yet so far

If anyone can, I need to make my own linkage, put up pictures of the linkage bar beside a ruler and if possible have close up pictures of the link arm at the end?
Modified by iiymij at 2:19 AM 2/4/2007

Post by **240_ESEX** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 12:39 pm

iiymij, what Resistor (M50) did you install? I have the same problem. Air is always blows if the car is on, or even if the car's just in accessory (like if the radio's on but not the car). And the only thing turning off the DCC does is black it out, air still comes out the vents of the car if thats off. The only way I've found to turn off the air while driving is if I pull the plug out of the Resistor (M50). Also I'm not sure about which Red/Blue wire you're talking about? And the issue with it dimming is cause of the illumination wire into it. I guess when you flip your lights on Nissan and other car manufacturers figure you're turning them on cause it's night time and dark outside. So obviously your lights turn on and inside the car, digital stuff like the DCC and radio's (if the illumination wire is connected) will dim down allowing your eyes to focus on the light your headlights are putting onto the road. Anyways I found that illumination wire on my harness, cut it, and now my DCC is at full brightness even with the headlights on. I cut mine cause I drive with my parking lights on during the day, and even that would cause the DCC to dim and its hard to see that during the day when it's dimmed low. Only down side to this is at night the only thing I can see on it is the LCD screen in the center and the little light indicating what mode it's on, you can't see the red and blue arrows, or the center lights in each button light up. Hope that answers your question. IDK about your wiper button situation though. Maybe someone else might know?

Post by **iiymij** » Mon Feb 05, 2007 3:40 pm

Thanks for the reply man, which wire is the illumination wire, i might wanna cut it as well unless there is a way to light up the little figures for the DCC unit, like for the bi levels there's a green light and above this a small icon of where it blows.

THe blue /red wire I'll take pix when i get home but I believe one goes to the Thermo Control Amp from the DCC unit, The sensor to the left of the blower motor resistor.

My M50 i bought was off Kevin and he said it's from a JDM clip however it looked pretty new when it came to me and the block tips are a whole bunch of rods, not flat panels for the sensor.

Post by **240_ESEX** » Tue Feb 06, 2007 7:31 pm

I looked today and the illumination wire is the Red/White one. I believe it's like pin three on the top row of the larger harness connected to the DCC. I'd recommend cutting it somewhere where if you do want to have all the buttons light up again, you can, cause it sucks at night when you're poking around trying to find a button you want rather than just having it lit. I'm probably just gonna hook up a switch and wire it to that illumination wire so that during the day I can have my parking/fog lights on without the DCC dimming and at night feed that wire 12 volts to dim it down to light up entirely.The way you describe you Resistor sounds like mine (there's some pictures of mine on page 9) but IDK how to fix the air blowing problem. Anyone have a clue? Anyone else still reading this thread?

Post by **positron1** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 12:38 am

charlie2020 wrote:
The reason for the hot/cold mix door motor not moving is becasue you must have the cabin temp sensor pluged in and the mix door motor must be the JDM one.

Bingo!

Post by **positron1** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 1:07 am

georgegto wrote:Does anyone know where i can find an air mix door,cabin temp sensor and sunload sensor, and harness for the dcc unit?

Havac motor http://www.tunedbyjdm.com

Post by **positron1** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 1:08 am

Reread the post but I'm still not clear on how you put the unit into diagnostic mode?

Post by **240_ESEX** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 12:43 pm

Here you go.

To run a self-diagnostic for the DCC:Turn engine on. Within 10 second of starting engine, press and hold ‘OFF’ button on the DCC for 5-10 seconds until all segments on the display light up. Test 1- Display Test. Look for any missing segments or iconsPress Up arrow to get to Test 2.Test 2 – Input signals from each sensor Wait a couple seconds and it’ll display error codes (20=all ok, 21=ambient, 22=in-vehicle, 24=intake, 25=sunload (test in sunlight to prevent this error), 26=PBR)Press Up arrow to get to Test 3 or Down arrow to get to Test 1Test 3 – Mode Door Motor This test takes a little longer. 30=all modes ok, 31=vent, 32=B/L, 33=B/L, 34=Foot/Def 1, 35=Foot/Def 2, 36=DefPress Up arrow to get to Test 4 or Down arrow to get to Test 3Test 4 – Actuators Test Pattern Toggle modes 41-46 by pressing defrost button on ACC.Test 5 – Temperature Readings Press defrost button to toggle through sensors (ambient, in-vehicle, intake in that order). If the temp is -22, then that sensor is not working. The temperature can also be adjusted to compensate for differences between temp setting and the temp felt by driver. It can be adjusted 6 degrees up or down. While in Test 5, press the fan switch and then the temp adjustment can be made using the Up/Down arrows.Hit Auto button or turn car off to exit self-diag.

Post by **iiymij** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 2:16 pm

This is a picture of the blue wire with a red stripe on it that I don't know where it hooks up to. BeatUpSx said that he tied this to the blower motor? Does that mean it just spliced it and added this wire to it like a Y connector? That will probably help me be able to change the blower speeds after. (this 7 pin witht he B/R wire was the one I got the G/W wire from to move it to the bigger plug with a billion wires going into it. )

From my harness i have part of the harness after that. You can see this B/R wire turns into a fat wire after?

Just though I'd add in my custom arm linkage with with a few parts from home depot and some raw strength to a 3/8 rod.

on my way and just need the blower to work correctly and i think im alll good

Post by **iiymij** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 2:17 pm

240_ESEX wrote:Here you go.

To run a self-diagnostic for the DCC:Turn engine on. Within 10 second of starting engine, press and hold ‘OFF’ button on the DCC for 5-10 seconds until all segments on the display light up. Test 1- Display Test. Look for any missing segments or iconsPress Up arrow to get to Test 2.Test 2 – Input signals from each sensor Wait a couple seconds and it’ll display error codes (20=all ok, 21=ambient, 22=in-vehicle, 24=intake, 25=sunload (test in sunlight to prevent this error), 26=PBR)Press Up arrow to get to Test 3 or Down arrow to get to Test 1Test 3 – Mode Door Motor This test takes a little longer. 30=all modes ok, 31=vent, 32=B/L, 33=B/L, 34=Foot/Def 1, 35=Foot/Def 2, 36=DefPress Up arrow to get to Test 4 or Down arrow to get to Test 3Test 4 – Actuators Test Pattern Toggle modes 41-46 by pressing defrost button on ACC.Test 5 – Temperature Readings Press defrost button to toggle through sensors (ambient, in-vehicle, intake in that order). If the temp is -22, then that sensor is not working. The temperature can also be adjusted to compensate for differences between temp setting and the temp felt by driver. It can be adjusted 6 degrees up or down. While in Test 5, press the fan switch and then the temp adjustment can be made using the Up/Down arrows.Hit Auto button or turn car off to exit self-diag.

Did you get to try this? Cause when i did nothing happened?

Post by **240_ESEX** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 3:07 pm

Thanks for the pix. I'll get back to you on that later. I've gotta look into it more. As for the Diagnostics mode, I followed those instructions and was able to get it to work fine. I went through tests 1,2,3 and they all passed completely. I don't really know how to use tests 4 and 5. I found if you turned the car on and held the 'OFF' button within the first 10 seconds, that it would work best if the display to the DCC was off first then hold 'OFF' after you do that it should work fine.

Post by **240_ESEX** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 3:38 pm

I re-read Beatupsx's entire thread again and says to hook the Blue/Red wire up to the larger Blue/Red at the Blower Motor which is an Ignition wire for. But further down the thread Dammitboy says he had his hooked up to that same Blue/Red on the Blower Motor and he still had the same problems we have. Then further down he says he moved it to another Ignition wire in the car and he had a fully functional DCC. I hooked up my Blue/Red to the Ignition wire on the vehicles Ignition harness and my DCC is still acting up. I had no success, but yeah if you connect it the way you asked about, that would be the same as Beatupsx's install. Try it out and let us know what happens?

Post by **iiymij** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 11:00 pm

i re-read the diganostic mode thing and maybe i didn't do it within 10 seconds of starting the car, probably why it didn't work for me.

just a question for you 240_ESEX, does your blower turn off when you press the off button?

When I push it, my DCC blanks out like theres no power but the blower still stays on? I was putting back in my analogue one and left my blower resistor hanging and i think it shorted on me, not that only turns on and off. (full blast or not ) so if your blower turns on and off we both might need an official JDM resistor?

Post by **positron1** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 8:16 am

That happens to me sometimes when the buttons get stuck.

Post by **240_ESEX** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 9:50 am

I wrote this back on page nine and just copied it. I didn't feel like re-writing everything again but this is my problem

There is always air blowing through the vents, except for when the car's off. Even if I have the car in just accessory, if the DCC is turned off, or if the DCC is disconnected it's still blowing air. And the DCC functions fully except for that and changeing the fan speeds, its always full blast. It does go through the different modes, changes temps, AC works, defroster works, turns off, but just doesn't turn off the air or control the speed.

So yeah I've basically got the same problem as you iiymij. Which blower resistor do you think shorted on you? The factory 240 one or the JDM one? Did you manage to hook up the blue/red to an ignition wire?

Post by **positron1** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 7:09 am

Get a blower motor from dammitboy. I had the same problem and installed the blower motor and now I can at least turn the unit on and off. I still can't cycle through the speeds though.

Post by **240_ESEX** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 7:50 am

Aww dude. Thats sucks then. I need one that can be turned off from the DCC and also control its speeds. The blower turns off if I unplug the Resistor, I'd rather just keep doing this to the the extra $$ buying one I could turn off from the DCC and still can't control it's speeds. Does anyone know which Resistors would work for this install? I remember Charlie2020 was going to post up a list, but I guess he never got around to doing it.

Post by **Dammitboy** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 3:18 pm

positronone wrote:Get a blower motor from dammitboy. I had the same problem and installed the blower motor and now I can at least turn the unit on and off. I still can't cycle through the speeds though.

Hmmm, I remember having that same problem. Make sure you have a switched + (on only with key in-clicked once) Think I tapped into the bl/red stripe wire by the USDM blower motor plug.

Post by **240_ESEX** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 7:54 pm

I'll try it when I get a chance. But aren't all Accessory/Ignition wires the same? I mean as long as it get power right?Dammitboy, I read your post on Beatupsx's thread and you said you put it to a different Ignition source, and it worked off of the other one and NOT the Blue/Red from the Blower Motor.

Post by **Dammitboy** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 4:23 am

Let me dig through my install ths w/e, I'll see what I came up with.

Kevin

Post by **positron1** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 5:46 am

240_ESEX wrote:Aww dude. Thats sucks then. I need one that can be turned off from the DCC and also control its speeds. The blower turns off if I unplug the Resistor, I'd rather just keep doing this to the the extra $$ buying one I could turn off from the DCC and still can't control it's speeds. Does anyone know which Resistors would work for this install? I remember Charlie2020 was going to post up a list, but I guess he never got around to doing it.

The problem with the unit not cycling thru the fan speeds is not with the blower motor sensor. It's has something to do with the wiring. I missed something about moving the green/white wire to a different source. I just need to get off my lazy butt and check my wires but having the right blower motor and being able to turn the unit off and on is well worth the money. I hated reaching through and removing that relay everytime I wanted to turn off my unit.

Post by **240_ESEX** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 6:15 am

Well I agree too, if everything worked like it's supposed to I'll pay to get the right stuff, but you said you still can't work through the speeds, so if thats the case I don't mind pulling out the plug. I did swith over the Green/White wire over to the larger harness and it still has the same problem for me.

Silvia Digital Climate control Instructions................

Re: (apidog)

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