If I use silicon or nitrile hose connectors for I/C piping, what's the most boost you would recommend running? To say it another way, at what boost level would welding pipes (instead of using connectors) become mandatory?
Jay
silicon/nitrile connectors vs welding
its never mandatory, in fact you wouldn't ever want to weld all the pipes. the engine moves independant of the intercooler, so you have to leave some play in the pipes.if start blowing your hoses off, take the pipes in to have them bead roller. If they still keep popping off, then use a metal link between pipes.
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hannibal
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I forgot about the engine moving and the I/C not.
I'm trying to estimate the cost of intake and I/C piping. If i buy mandrel bends, could i cut them and connect all the pieces with hose? I guess that would be lotsa hoses and lotsa money, and lotsa possible sources for leaks.How much do you pay to have I/C pipes (or exhaust, downpipes) welded? Do they charge "per weld"??
I'm trying to estimate the cost of intake and I/C piping. If i buy mandrel bends, could i cut them and connect all the pieces with hose? I guess that would be lotsa hoses and lotsa money, and lotsa possible sources for leaks.How much do you pay to have I/C pipes (or exhaust, downpipes) welded? Do they charge "per weld"??
every place is different... any place that does exhaust work could theoretically do it, but it HAS to be leak free, unlike an exhaust, where a small leak isn't as big of a deal.Anyway if you look a the price of all thos connectors and clamps it might be the same price just to have someone else weld it up.
Total cost for 2.5 inch IC piping will be right around 200 with silicone connectors, mandrel bends, some straights, and heavy duty clamps.-
C-Kwik
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You'll likely never see the kind of boost where silicone connections would blow. If you're planning to run some serious boost, you might consider T-bolt clamps as they can put significantly more pressure on the connectors, and perhaps think about bead rolling the pipe ends.
As far as engine movement, a silicone hump hose at the throttle body and at the turbo should provide the slack you need. Keeping the pipes from moving too much will help keep them from hitting parts of the car and causing noises.
While welding as much as you can would be good, keep in mind you'll want to make sure you have enough so that the piping can be romoved if needed to service the car. My XS Engineering kit has a rather long pipe going from the turbo towards the intercooler. While it can be removed and installed, it takes quite a bit of patience to get it through the hole. This pipe could have been designed to use two pieces and would have been a lot easier to install.
As far as engine movement, a silicone hump hose at the throttle body and at the turbo should provide the slack you need. Keeping the pipes from moving too much will help keep them from hitting parts of the car and causing noises.
While welding as much as you can would be good, keep in mind you'll want to make sure you have enough so that the piping can be romoved if needed to service the car. My XS Engineering kit has a rather long pipe going from the turbo towards the intercooler. While it can be removed and installed, it takes quite a bit of patience to get it through the hole. This pipe could have been designed to use two pieces and would have been a lot easier to install.
I think he meant for hose couplers. You can buy like 2 foot sections for 30 dollars and make 10 2.4" couplings instead of buying 2.5 on ebay at 16 dollars just because they come with nasty screw style clamps.BTW use T bolt clamps.The ones with bell springs are even better but hard to find and expensive.