Signal S13 5 lug hubs

[rbsileighty]

Has anyone ever seen/used these hubs? I know Signal is a good company, but I never heard of anyone using this kit before. I would most likely just get the front set so I could use the aluminum spindles off of a Z32 (are they off both NA and turbo models?).

http://www.importfan.com/serie...=1122

I also noticed on Signal's site they are using Tein HE's on their drift car, which I found interesting considering I've heard some people call this kit "soft."

[Nismo_Freak]

I also noticed on Signal's site they are using Tein HE's on their drift car, which I found interesting considering I've heard some people call this kit "soft."

Some people associate a higher spring rate with increased handling ability... this of course is a common misunderstanding of suspension setups.

Drifting is all about weight distribution anyways... harder springs and dampeners just allow you to transfer weight faster. To some this may be ideal, to others it may not.

Also don't forget you can change the spring rates on Teins +/- 2 kgf/mm.

[yeswepromise]

no they are not using tein he on the drift carsthey are using tanabe dd

[rbsileighty]

http://babelfish.altavista.com...t=url

Here are the specs on their green car. This is where I saw they had HE's.

So no one has heard/used their hubs?

[Dori Dori]

You can't use z32 spindles on an s13. The z32 has a double wishbone (kinda) suspension in the front.

In the rear, however, you can use the aluminum knuckle off of a z32. Keep in mind that the lower strut mount is different on the z32 knuckle. You'll want the n/a hubs btw.

[rbsileighty]

You can't use z32 spindles on an s13. The z32 has a double wishbone (kinda) suspension in the front.

In the rear, however, you can use the aluminum knuckle off of a z32. Keep in mind that the lower strut mount is different on the z32 knuckle. You'll want the n/a hubs btw.

I guess you read my post wrong. I want to just get the front Signal conversion hubs since I will most likely use the aluminum Z32 rear spindles. When you say to use the N/A hubs, are you saying the NA has the aluminum spindle as well? I did know about the different mount in the rear, and I am not worried about it since I plan on either using FLT-A2's (actually driven with these on a S14) or the Tein HE's. Anyone have some info that would help sway me either way.

I hear the JIC's have bigger pistons, but if both are just as strong and they as perform the same that would just mean the Teins might be lighter.

[Dori Dori]

No, I didn't read your post wrong. There is no rear spindle. We have RWD cars, so in the rear, there's an axle. The peice you want is the knuckle...it's the aluminum peice that all the suspension components connect to and the axle goes through.

To answer your question, yes on the N/A Z32, the rear knuckles are aluminum. Unless you have a super hicas 240sx, you'll want the knuckles off the N/A anyway. Super Hicas was standard on all TT models, so the mounts on the knuckle for the toe arm are sized for ball joints instead of bushings. I hear this can be fixed by boring it out, but to what specs, I don't know.

[rbsileighty]

The concept was there, but the terms weren't. I thought it was called a spindle and I was wrong. Most of what I ment when I said you read it wrong is that it looked like you thought I wanted to use the Z32 front spindles (which would make since, given I was using the wrong terms), when I had only planed on using the Signal conversion hubs with the stock setup (spindles the term in front on ours?). I do have Hicas, so I guess I have to use the TT knuckles. I understand drivetrain a lot more than chassis (I am a fuel injector develpment eng. for Bosch), but the suspension is a part of the car that has always fascinated me. Thanks for helping me learn.

How hard would it be to remove the hicas system? I do all of my own work and have done 2 RB20 swaps, one into each S chassis, to give you an idea of my mech ability. I have a Tomei lock kit, but have not installed it yet. If it's not that much of a burdon to do (buying a lot of new parts and not really needed), then I might just remove the system and do the 5 lug conversion at the same time.

Thanks for the help.

[Dori Dori]

The lock bar will remove the Hicas pump and bolt into your existing tie rods. If you wanted to completely remove any trace of the Hicas, you'd need a new, non-Hicas, subframe, toe links, p/s pump, ect. To me, that is a complete waste of time/money/effort. The lock bar you have should have come with some parts for the p/s lines too right (to return the fluid and bypass the hydraulic unit)? That's all you need. As an added bonus, by keeping the hicas tie rods and using the lock bar, you get toe adjustability in the rear and no bushings to worry about. If your tie rod ends are f'd, you can get new ones from the dealer for about $30 /ea.

[rbsileighty]

I will just use my kit then. As for the tie rod ends, are they the same part # as the fonts? Thanks again for all of the help.

[Dori Dori]

I don't have a part number for the rears...I just called courtesy-parts.com and they told me the price (they won't tell you the p/n, guess they're afraid of competition). I really don't think they are the same part though.

[Dori Dori]

Wait, is this the lock kit you have?

If it is, then I'm sorry but I have misinformed you. That kit puts a shim between the 'stroke stopper' and the inner ball joint. What that does is prevents the rear steering from moving because there should be 3mm of clearance between the two. You can essentially do the same thing by tightening the 'stroke stopper' right up to the inner ball joint. Also, it comes with electronics to trick the Hicas computer to keep it from working. You can do the same thing by pulling a fuse, but the Hicas light on the dash will come on.

I thought you had a lock bar, like this one:

That bar replaces the entire Hicas hydraulic unit (which is heavy) but retains the tie rods (which gives you the toe adjustability and no bushings to worry about). That's what I have and that's what I would recommend. I would definitely not recommend the above Tomei unit seeing as everything it does can be done almost for free...the only expenses being a red light always on in the dash and (if you wanted) two 3mm spacers. *~* If you don't have the bar but want one, I can point you to a couple different places to get one.

Let me know.

[bob marley]

no they are not using tein he on the drift carsthey are using tanabe dd

http://babelfish.altavista.com...t=url

Here are the specs on their green car. This is where I saw they had HE's.

The green one is komatsu's old car, which used tein he. His current one is orange and uses tanabe dd.

[BomexS13]

The green one is komatsu's old car, which used tein he. His current one is orange and uses tanabe dd.

Yes, the green one is the old car. He's using mostly(or all) Tanabe on his ride now...

[Toad[^_^]]

You can't use z32 spindles on an s13. The z32 has a double wishbone (kinda) suspension in the front.

In the rear, however, you can use the aluminum knuckle off of a z32. Keep in mind that the lower strut mount is different on the z32 knuckle. You'll want the n/a hubs btw.

http://www.nissanperformancema...40sx/

Big waste of money, but it can be done.

[rbsileighty]

That is the tomei kit that I have. Which lock bar kits would you recommend?

[Dori Dori]

http://www.nissanperformancema...40sx/

Big waste of money, but it can be done.

That's the knuckle in the rear being changed there. The silvias and z32's had the same rear suspension (skyline too), wich is why it's possible so swap them with little modification. I said the front suspension is different and cannont be swapped over, which is true (at least not easily and I've never seen it done before).

[Dori Dori]

That is the tomei kit that I have. Which lock bar kits would you recommend?

They are all pretty much the same, I think materials used are the only variances I've ever seen...with the right resources, you can even have one made.

I got mine from here:http://www.japanesemotorsport....k.htm It's the 12th item down. The prices have gone up though since I ordered. I did a quick conversion (those prices are australian dollars) and it comes to around $147.00 I paid about fifty less. I don't know where else to get them though. Maybe someone else does?

[Toad[^_^]]

They are all pretty much the same, I think materials used are the only variances I've ever seen...with the right resources, you can even have one made.

I got mine from here:http://www.japanesemotorsport....k.htm It's the 12th item down. The prices have gone up though since I ordered. I did a quick conversion (those prices are australian dollars) and it comes to around $147.00 I paid about fifty less. I don't know where else to get them though. Maybe someone else does?

That website is cool.

That's the knuckle in the rear being changed there. The silvias and z32's had the same rear suspension (skyline too), wich is why it's possible so swap them with little modification. I said the front suspension is different and cannont be swapped over, which is true (at least not easily and I've never seen it done before).

I'm sure somebody will do it, but one has to wonder why...

[Dori Dori]

It would be cool, you'd have a double wishbone + tension arm front suspension...it would be a complete waste of time and money IMO though.