Sign of turbo going?

[theSLOWz]

So I've been trying to solve my cars inability to run smooth, and literally guys, I've done everything... except 2 things... boost leak test and pressure test cooling system. Along with the nasty idle my car likes to do this little trick where it just smokes white smoke for a while... between that and the major power loss, I'm thinking I got a turbo issue here because the car has 142-150psi compression between the 6 cylinders... plugs, coil packs, injectors, ptu, maf, tps, etc etc all tested good. 33 and 53 codes present on ecu, but on the ecu's o2 sensor test they were fine. Car has a replacement wiring harness thats only 2 years old and theres no corrosion on anything. No vacuum leaks, you name it, I've looked into it..

I'm out of ideas here, and seeing I just picked up some downpipes, I guess I can take a look at the turbine side and see if maybe 1 has a bad seal or something... what else can I check out, or any other ways of knowing you have a turbo going or pretty much gone?

[t.mcginley.jr]

Do you know the condition of your head gaskets? White smoke means your burning coolant, which would also be throwing off your O2 sensors. The most effective way to check is a UV dye test but you could also pull the radiator cap off with the car idling (and warm) and check for bubbles and/or oily coolant. If the seals on the turbos were going it would be burning blue smoke.

[theSLOWz]

It's not coolant, there's just no signs of head gasket fail and compression test confirms that, the coolant is clean and oil is too, but I'm hoping to conjur up a cooling system pressure tester this weekend just to be sure. I bought a boost leak tester that will come in Monday. The exhaust/smoke just smells very strong of exhaust gasses and nothing else... I'm just out of ideas.

[t.mcginley.jr]

Did any of the cylinders have the same compression as the one next to it?

A boost leak or vacuum leak would cause the rough idle, but shouldn't cause the smoke.

[nissanfreak12]

It's not coolant, there's just no signs of head gasket fail and compression test confirms that, the coolant is clean and oil is too, but I'm hoping to conjur up a cooling system pressure tester this weekend just to be sure. I bought a boost leak tester that will come in Monday. The exhaust/smoke just smells very strong of exhaust gasses and nothing else... I'm just out of ideas.

Do a leak down test, this will confirm the head gasket is in good order.

Have you checked the injectors? It could be running lean, yes I know white smoke usually means coolant, but your saying you have a strong exhaust smell. One of your injectors could be acting up. If you replaced them, it is possible you could have pinched an o-ring. Couldn't hurt going that route.

Yes, you should also do a boost leak test and coolant pressure test,

[theSLOWz]

Driver side turbo is shot... Wheres the best (or cheapest) place to get turbos? Not planning on upgrading.

[Fearspect]

I don't have a link for you, but I know from talking to others that you can get a turbo rebuild kit in the realm of $100-200.

[theSLOWz]

Not sure I want to mess with rebuilding a turbo, I'd rather buy remans

[Ziggy1621]

You can by them from Z1 for $600 plus your core. Personally, I just rebuilt both of mine following this tutorial. http://www.sr20-forum.com/forced-induct ... heavy.html

You can buy CHRAs for around $400 then you just have to swap over housings and lines

[theSLOWz]

I'm looking at the gt525 kit from z1, but the price of the chra's sound alot better... I guess, seeing that I have all winter, I can spend a few weeks deciding what I want and what the finances will allow

[t.mcginley.jr]

You can by them from Z1 for $600 plus your core. Personally, I just rebuilt both of mine following this tutorial. http://www.sr20-forum.com/forced-induct ... heavy.html

You can buy CHRAs for around $400 then you just have to swap over housings and lines

Wow that's a great link to save, thanks. I'm pretty mechanically inclinded but that turbo rebuild seems pretty intense.. how was it Ziggy?

[Ziggy1621]

Scary on the first one, but confidence built, the second was a breeze. The important point is to make sure you mark the shaft, nut, and intake wheel so you align it perfectly. The guy in the thread used a larger marker than I would recommend. Get a sharpie pen so you can make a few precise marks. If your turbo is actually leaking, then make sure you do not soak the whole shaft in parts cleaner or you will remove your marks at the end of the shaft.

I give this advice for those who don't mind taking the risk. Most people recommend always paying for a rebalance after the rebuild. I'm a risk taker, anal about details, and used to working with small parts, and this isn't my DD, so figured I would try it out. If they break, then I'll just be forced to upgrade It worked fine for this guy and others I've done research on, but still, do this at your own risk.

[theSLOWz]

Most people recommend always paying for a rebalance after the rebuild

That was my concern, when I had the s366 I had on my cummins rebuilt it was balanced and all that good stuff by sps. If the turbos in these cars were easily accessed I could see taking the risk, but I think I'd rather spend the money and have the peace of mind

[Ziggy1621]

Most people recommend always paying for a rebalance after the rebuild

That was my concern, when I had the s366 I had on my cummins rebuilt it was balanced and all that good stuff by sps. If the turbos in these cars were easily accessed I could see taking the risk, but I think I'd rather spend the money and have the peace of mind

Don't blame you there, but a rebuild kit and a balance is still cheaper than a new chra. A quick google search brought me to these guys who do it for $55. http://www.forcedinductions.com/rebuild.htm

[t.mcginley.jr]

The more I think about it the more I'm considering doing the rebuild myself. I only paid $250 for TT heads with the turbos still attached..

[Ziggy1621]

If you are mechanically inclined, and organized, you could do it. Keep all the bolts organized in containers/zip lock bags and labeled.

Removal/installation
http://diy.icydesigns.com/article/170/N ... JZZb5G9KSN

Assembly
http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnettech/rebuild/rebuild.aspx

And by all means, delete the egr and do the water bypass and PCV reroute. Not only does it allow you to remove the plenum in 15 min, but you can install the motor without the plenum and reach the top transmission bolts from the top! . Get with Harry at Ztuner for your parts. He saved me a good bit over Z1

[t.mcginley.jr]

Thanks for the additional info, I think I'm going to give it a shot rebuilding my own turbos. While the engine was out I did the EGR delete and TB coolant bypass, not the PCV reroute though. I read about that right after getting everything back together

I will make sure to talk with Harry though, thanks

[Ziggy1621]

PCV isn't too rough, I used Harry's kit. All you need is a 3/8" pipe thread tap and a step drill bit

[t.mcginley.jr]

Don't you basically thread a fitting into each intake valve cover?

[Ziggy1621]

You thread the plugs. The wall of the valve covers is too thin to thread where you put the fittings. So you use the step drill to get the hole to the correct size to spin in the fitting. The fitting is brass, so once it's in, the two metals react to create a bond. You can see them here

[t.mcginley.jr]

That is WAY cleaner than the stock pcv system, maybe if I take the valve covers off again in the future I'll do this mod