*sigh* the problems never end - now what the mother farker is causing this????

[Mustangs_Suck]

Ok..so I got my clutch installed about a week ago...spent way too much money on it in the first place - so this just pisses me off more.

The clutch is already shot...I've driven *maybe* 200 miles max on it..and it's already all ****ed up. I first started noticing when it would slip in 4th and 5th gear...then 2nd and 3rd joined the list. It still was decent enough for me to not have to get it towed, so I drove it back to the shop saying 'wtf is wrong with this'. They said they'll get it in today, but of course they didn't...so they said it'd have to wait until Monday. Well I decided to take it home and drive it back on Monday - since I really can't afford to be out a car again.....on the way home - the clutch completely went...1st gear - nothing...i had to sit and pump the clutch pedal about 4 times for it to finally just BARELY catch...and then I coasted into a parking lot.....now I get to have it towed back to the ****ing shop and have it wait until Monday for it to be looked at.

Now here's where I am mind boggled.

The clutch works fine for awhile...then it slowly starts slipping more and more as I drive it - and then eventually it completely goes bad. If I turn the car off and sit for about 15 min., then start it up and drive it'll catch again...and then after i drive it for a little bit - it'll completely be blown again.

I do not have any oil leaks - so no oil is being leaked into the bell housing causing it to slip. I have a very small anti-freeze drain - the amount in my overflow can goes down by maybe an inch every 3 days or so. When I told the place that my anti-freeze did that - they automatically jumped and said that I must have a blown headgasket, and the anti-freeze is leaking into the bell housing, causing the clutch to slip. I've talked with another mechanic and he said that the amount is so little, that it would no way cause a clutch to slip even if it was leaking onto the clutch...and the chances of that is ridiculously small in the first place.

What the **** is my problem?????? Just a bad clutch install, and now the people doing it are looking for a way out, so they don't have to fix the job for free?? or is there another possibility? Idk if the shop bled the system at all...they installed a completely new hydraulic system too - if there was still air in the system, would it cause something like this to happen??? I'm at a loss of words to explain my luck with this car right now..it's driving me ****ing crazy, as it seems no matter WHAT I do...it's still ****ed up...even when I pay a place to fix it!!!



It'll be getting inspected by the shop Monday..and I'm not taking anymore bull**** from them...I want to sit there and watch them take the parts out and show them to me, so they don't have a chance to lie about ****. I really think that they just ****ed up on something..and I'm going to make sure that I don't pay a ****ing penny for their mistakes.

The small anti-freeze drain makes me angry too...but whatever..it's not too bad right now, but I assume that it must be my head gasket...as really nothing else causes that to happen as far as I know. *sigh* I hate this car....I'm *very* close to flying to Flordia and killing the person I bought it from.

Sorry for the long post....thanks to anyone that reads it and posts any feedback....

[somthin240]

I don't know much about clutch assembly or symptoms. but it seems like your symptom is similar to mine possibly, what was wrong with mine was the clutch slave cylinder. it leaked for some reason so I would have no pedal pressure but if you say it is slipping than maybe that's not it. just trying to think off all the possibilites b/c that's a weird problem. good luck.

[Mustangs_Suck]

I don't know much about clutch assembly or symptoms. but it seems like your symptom is similar to mine possibly, what was wrong with mine was the clutch slave cylinder. it leaked for some reason so I would have no pedal pressure but if you say it is slipping than maybe that's not it. just trying to think off all the possibilites b/c that's a weird problem. good luck.

They installed a brand new slave and master cylinder. I still have pressure - the clutch pedal snaps back quickly still - it doesn't just go to the floor. Also when it slips - I can hear a little rubbing sound right before it just completely lets go and revs - like the clutch is blown.

[Mustangs_Suck]

Oh and upon searching the Anti-freeze leak..it looks like I'm having more of a waterpump problem then a Head gasket - which would be much better when it comes to cost wise.

[jab11185]

what kind of clutch is it?

[Florida240sx]

You get the whole clutch kit or just the clutch.Maybe something didn't line up right but i thought if it doesn't it won't allow trans to go back on...maybe pressure plate crap?

[Structure240sx]

after it starts slipping its making alot more heat from added friction, this will cause it to catch less and less. flywheel could aslo be glazed or warped from it

also i know you just dynoed. you have to give most clutches a good 400miles of easy driving to break in properly. i went through the same thing with my spec stage III. starting beating on it after 150miles and within a week it would slip all the time when i got into boost. i took it easy for a while and it started to hold better except for launching

[Ubernoober]

Bad install. Something is causing the pressure plate to not clamp the disc correctly. Whether this is a pedal out of adjusment or an improperly installed disc and pressure plate is something you will have to make the shop correct.You MUST surface a flywheel when installing a new clutch. Whether the flywheel needs a step cut into it or not seems open to debate, but according to the machinists manual, it does.

[Mustangs_Suck]

ACT 6-puck complete clutch kit - comes with clutch, pressure plate, all fittings etc etc. The flywheel was re-machined to ACT's specifications.

Yes I know I got it dynoed, but it's not like he was jamming through the gears, he granny shifted very slowly and smoothly through all of them, and not once did it slip during the dyno runs...it started happening about 4-5 days afterwards, and I haven't been beating on it really at all.
Modified by Mustangs_Suck at 5:36 PM 5/14/2005

[hysteria]

i doubt your clutch is worn out... you said they'll look at it on monday, so i wouldn't stress about this because it's probably something else. sorry to hear the bad news... good thing the car is running now though... good luck.

[Mustangs_Suck]

i doubt your clutch is worn out... you said they'll look at it on monday, so i wouldn't stress about this because it's probably something else. sorry to hear the bad news... good thing the car is running now though... good luck.

true...i'm just worried they are gonna do everything they can to blame me, and I'll of just wasted how much they charged me to put it in.....and yeah...at least it's working now.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

does the pedal feel change at all while all this is happening? It sounds to me like there is air in the system, and that as the car warms up, the air bubbles expand causing the slave cylinder to apply pressure on the clutch, which in turn causes slippage... its kindof like riding the clutch all the time. If you really want to find out for yourself you could try disconnecting the slave cylinder, and driving it around without using the clutch. Start it in gear, and shift without using the clutch. If you hammer on it, and the clutch still holds, then this is probably your problem. Buy the air box bypass line and bleed the system again. This is essentially what happened to me.

[Mustangs_Suck]

does the pedal feel change at all while all this is happening? It sounds to me like there is air in the system, and that as the car warms up, the air bubbles expand causing the slave cylinder to apply pressure on the clutch, which in turn causes slippage... its kindof like riding the clutch all the time. If you really want to find out for yourself you could try disconnecting the slave cylinder, and driving it around without using the clutch. Start it in gear, and shift without using the clutch. If you hammer on it, and the clutch still holds, then this is probably your problem. Buy the air box bypass line and bleed the system again. This is essentially what happened to me.

Pedal doesn't change whatsoever, springs back and keeps it's pressure no matter what the clutch is doing. I'll be suggesting it to the shop...as they installed a completely new master and slave cylinder - so if they didn't bleed it - that's their fault, and nothing I should have to do nor pay for.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

well, no matter what it is, you shouldnt have to pay for anything. good luck and keep us posted

[Mustangs_Suck]

Well, here's what it is.

This car used to be an auto.

When it switched to a manual, it wasn't done perfectly (big surprise there )

The master cylinder isn't held in properly, there's a big gap where it sits, allowing it to move around. When I shift the rod that goes into the master cylinder works for a bit, but then it gets hot, and friction and the constant poking, causes it to move around, so that the rod won't be able to go in it's proper place, which means no hydraulic fluid is released, not allowing me to shift.

So the shop has to do some custom welding/fabricating of some crap to fill the gap.

They did pressure tests and all that, and they said NOTHING is leaking, and the clutch is in perfect condition.

Reason for my coolant level going down, is that the turbo and water pump is coolant cooled - so it burns some up every time I use it........I've never heard of a set up that makes you continuously fill up your coolant overflow tank...so idk wtf to believe there.

[DRIFTEADOR]

and they didnt notice this when they installed a new master cylinder

[Mustangs_Suck]

and they didnt notice this when they installed a new master cylinder

apparently not

[AZhitman]

Coolant? In the turbo?

WTF is that all about? Should be an oil line.

And no car should use coolant, something's wrong.

Lastly, that M/C install must have been REALLY sloppy, it's one of the easiest things (Nissan even shows you where to cut the firewall!)

[hysteria]

your t25 is water cooled?

the offers still open dude... just move to texas and me and my friend will fix the problems.. then we can go drive and have fun.

[somthin240]

my WRX's stock turbo is water and oil cooled. but we don't have to ever refill or check it. now of course this is a factory designed system so it may be different but if your coolant is getting hot enough that it's evaporating. either use more water/water wetter. or something else is wrong. is your turbo also oil cooled? I can't imagine a turbo getting adequete cooling from coolant alone but I don't know everything either. good luck. well on the bright side by the time your car is all straightened out you'll be a 240 master tech.

[2fast2forty]

I had a freind that had kind of the same symptoms. Oil was leaking onto his clutch and was making it slip pretty bad. Got worse over time. I dont know if this is any help but just thought i say it.

[turbo98_240sx]

I had a freind that had kind of the same symptoms. Oil was leaking onto his clutch and was making it slip pretty bad. Got worse over time. I dont know if this is any help but just thought i say it.

yet posted earlier in the post was

Well, here's what it is.

This car used to be an auto.

When it switched to a manual, it wasn't done perfectly (big surprise there )

The master cylinder isn't held in properly, there's a big gap where it sits, allowing it to move around. When I shift the rod that goes into the master cylinder works for a bit, but then it gets hot, and friction and the constant poking, causes it to move around, so that the rod won't be able to go in it's proper place, which means no hydraulic fluid is released, not allowing me to shift.

So the shop has to do some custom welding/fabricating of some crap to fill the gap.

They did pressure tests and all that, and they said NOTHING is leaking, and the clutch is in perfect condition.

does anyone actualy read anything anymore hehe LMFAO no offence ment tho but seriously

[eddiec]

do you have any pics of the offending MC? i'm curious as to what a "bad" install looks like.

good luck

[hysteria]

lol it's probably draped over the turbo...

[Mustangs_Suck]

Yeah..i'm thinking they just installed it badly, and then claimed whoever did the auto -> manual swap messed up...you would think they would of noticed it moved around when they installed it...but whatever - it's all done now, and it drives just fine.

As for my coolant - I'm thinking I might need a new water pump..as I searched up on it, and people were explaining what I have going on, and it turned out to be their water pump.

As for the coolant cooled turbo - I have no clue wtf he means by that. It's an oil/air cooled turbo.

and lol hysteria - I'd like to be able to have someone who knows wtf they are doing work on this - but i *think* it's all taken care of for the time being....might just need a water pump - but whatever. too bad you're in texas .

and yeah, **** I should apply at Nissan after all this is said and done...way too much crap being thrown at me here...oh well..at least i'm learning something.

Oh and no - no pics of the "bad MC install" everything's all welded and blah blah now.

[fiznat]

oh well..at least i'm learning something.

That is an excellent way to be thinking about all of this, by the way. Dont underestimate how much you have learned in the process of all of these mistakes. Experience is absolutely invaluable when it comes to building cars, and you are getting a whole lot of it all at once. Sometimes, theres no better way to learn

[turbo98_240sx]

That is an excellent way to be thinking about all of this, by the way. Dont underestimate how much you have learned in the process of all of these mistakes. Experience is absolutely invaluable when it comes to building cars, and you are getting a whole lot of it all at once. Sometimes, theres no better way to learn