Show me your custom Speaker Boxes!

[Trimble Epic]

So, I'm working on upgrading the sound system in my Z. I've got what appear to be acceptable speakers in all 4 corners already, but the install job on those was just $#!t, so I'm pulling them out and redoing all the boxes.

Also, the PO had removed his own amp when he sold me the car.. I immediately put in a temporary 100 watt 4 chan (25watt/channel) amp, but it sucked... so I've upgraded to a 600 watt 4chan amp and it sounds much better, but still needs work.

So, I'm trying to design a custom subwoofer box to go in the back... but my mind is blank. Therefore, I want to see some examples of what others have done!

I've already googled a bunch of nice looking work, and I'm starting to get some ideas. I also think people like these kinds of photo threads, so I'll start by posting some of the ones I've googled, with a disclaimer that NONE OF THESE ARE MY OWN IMAGES. So, here's some cool looking work:









Also, This page has some nice stuff...

Odds are I'm gonna do something simple like this...


... Oh, and I'm also planning on designing and building a custom box to hold my T-Tops.. I can't stand how long it takes to take them off and bag them, so I'm going to make a box that holds them safely, but lets me put them away and get them back out as fast as possible.

[aroche25]

Here is a custom box i had made by SRQ Customs(http://srqcustoms.com/) Single 10 Sealed (Infinity Kappa 100.9)

[Rager]

my box i built

[Trimble Epic]

Both of the above are very sexy and clean . Both are also using only one sub... Are you guys using dual voice coils, or are you running those mono? Just curious... I was thinking of using a DVC woof myself for space savings...

My desktop computer's speakers use a single powered sub and I'm quite happy with how that works...

Rager, what kind of material is that instead of carpet?? Is that leather?

[Trimble Epic]

This one looks really nice too:

Here's an example of what NOT TO DO:

[BigTDogg (MA)]

I've got plenty of room for my t-tops and other stuff as well. Can even fit my golf clubs. Chris doesn't make his boxes anymore, I think I got one of the last ones. Best bet is to go custom, as any shop can make you a similar design.

One sub is plenty, and DVC is nice to get more power from your amp, because you run it in parallel. No need for stereo subs. The frequencies they produce are omni-directional.

[Trimble Epic]

No need for stereo subs. The frequencies they produce are omni-directional.

I'm not worried about directional, I just want to make sure it plays bass notes from either left or right properly.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

Most HUs have a stereo output for the sub channel. If it has a mono out it's a summation of both channels. You're covered in the signal phase if you're using an amp or HU with a dedicated sub channel

[Rager]

Rager, what kind of material is that instead of carpet?? Is that leather?

the speaker box, i build. what was once the carpet is actually a 3/8 plywood. wrapped in some sort of light foam i picked up at a craft store . and both are wrapped in a a black vinyl product i got from the same craft store. i even wrapped the speaker cover things. with the same product. the amp is located where the spare tire was.

[throttle98]

Hey. Hows it going? I have a strong love for car audio. I frequent the car audio forums also.

A little bit of history:
I am running 1 800 rms door speaker amp to front focal components (soon to be fiberglassed door panels holding (1) pair of focal components in each door)
(2) hifonics brutus 2400's running at 1 ohm each (2400 rms cea rated)
(2) 12" dc audio xl model 2's capable of handling 2200 rms each with no problem.
(1) kinetic (battery) 2400 under the hood, and (1) 1800 kinetic in the rear (please dont fall for the capacitor hype)
Thats in my daily driver. I am going for a sound quality system in the z32

Anyways. If you were to do a proper sound quality system in the Z you would only run front door speakers/components (no rear speakers). The reasoning is because its a concert setup where you want all the treble, midrange and/or midbass coming from the front and the sub bass coming from the rear. You dont want your ears to strain to listen to vocals coming from the rear.

Thats a little off topic. I came to post on how whatever you do, if you care about the sound quality at all, please use 3/4" MDF wood. Other wood is not good at reverberating the sound waves properly and in return will sound like garbage.

Each subwoofer you purchase requires a specific cubic foot enclosure (box). So this custom box your making, you should really figure out the cubic feet of it, which is hard to do if its not a square/rectangle, than purchase your subwoofer after knowing and matching the cubic footage you have avalible. If you need any help with anything, I would love to help another z owner out. I would love for you to fully enjoy this system the first time around and not want to continuously want to upgrade subs (like I have) and waste valuable $$ and time.

I would love to help you pick out what equipment to use. Those "simple" designs your looking at would be the easiest to measure the cubic footage. Which in return will make the subwoofer sound its best. Each subwoofer has a different purpose whether its to be super loud (like my daily) or to have extreme sound quality. Let me know what you want out of your system and keep it moving from there. Good luck on this project. Mike

edit: I just read you said you were also going to build a t-top box. I'm assuming this means your building this box yourself? Before you build it please post what you want out of this system; loud, clear and crisp, or both. Than the first thing after deciding that is to see how much cubic feet you have avalible. Than get a woofer for your liking, ex: clean and crisp, than that subwoofer will have its own box requirements. Than you purchase amp for the woofer ect ect.

Either way if the box is too big for the woofer and you want it to be bigger since it looks better in the car, there are ways to take volume out of the box like making a little cubic box and glueing/screwing it to take up interior volume. I'll check this thread frequently. If you need help my email is [email protected] . it goes straight to my phone.

[Trimble Epic]

Hey. Hows it going? I have a strong love for car audio. I frequent the car audio forums also.

That's great! but you didn't post a picture of your speaker boxes hehehehe :P

[300ZXttZMAN]

Looking good fellas!

[Rager]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9C_rcL7HWgE[/youtube]

[XX7R]

Hey. Hows it going? I have a strong love for car audio. I frequent the car audio forums also.

A little bit of history:
I am running 1 800 rms door speaker amp to front focal components (soon to be fiberglassed door panels holding (1) pair of focal components in each door)
(2) hifonics brutus 2400's running at 1 ohm each (2400 rms cea rated)
(2) 12" dc audio xl model 2's capable of handling 2200 rms with no problem.
(1) kinetic (battery) 2400 under the hood, and (1) 1800 kinetic in the rear (please dont fall for the capacitor hype)
Thats in my daily driver. I am going for a sound quality system in the z32

I like your choice on woofers. I've had a level 5 before and loved it. What size alternator do you have?

[Trimble Epic]

Yeah, but did you have that CUSTOM made? heh heh heh

[throttle98]

Not to thread jack. Im only running a 220 amp. I need to get a 290 at least. Its close to $600 and all my money is going into my Z build now. My speaker box is 3.2 sq ft tuned at 32 hz. I can take pics if you want but its in a taurus. I also need more batteries.

Let me know is you need help. People on the audio forums are happy to make box designs specif for your woofer/s

[throttle98]

No need for stereo subs. The frequencies they produce are omni-directional.

I'm not worried about directional, I just want to make sure it plays bass notes from either left or right properly.

Thats not how car audio subwoofers work. The woofers work together.