Should I take it to the Dealer?
Should I take it to the Dealer?
After a hard, depressing day my 240 isn't running right. I put the cams in after i put it on TDC... the keyholes on the cam spockets were at 9:00 and 12:00 (lobes perfectly facing outward)... put front cover and distributor in...started it up and it ran like crap.. the idle would jump up and down and it was like it was choking.. the car was shaking....I checked my computer and it gave me code 11 and 21cam angle sensor and ignition signal... (my ignition coil is fine) well... the car wouldn't idle for long... it just jumped around and then died out. It's getting very cold outside and i'm so sick of trying to mess with it... I was thinking of getting it towed to the nissan dealer and having them fix it. Does anyone have any idea how much it would cost for them to time my car? Somebody help.
Re: Should I take it to the Dealer? (tiger)
Sounds like you either have the spark plug wires mis-matched(wrong firing order), or the distributor is off a tooth. Check with the picture below: it's for a newer model, but the order is the same. A mis-wired distributor will cause the engine to shake horribly like that.
Also those codes may be 'left-overs', so make sure to clear them before you run it again(then re-check for codes).
Do you have a timing light? Don't fret just yet, you've done the hard stuff!
Also those codes may be 'left-overs', so make sure to clear them before you run it again(then re-check for codes).
Do you have a timing light? Don't fret just yet, you've done the hard stuff!
Re: (tiger)
No just go easy on it. If anything don't tap directly on the rotor, you might crack it(easy to replace tho). There's a rubber o-ring on the end of the shaft: is this what makes it tight? If so, that's OK, you'll have a good seal. If it's binding metal-to-metal, then that's no good.
Re: (slipnfall)
yea it will slip in easy but getting it to go in the other inch is hard... not extremely but I think next time i'm going to try pushing instead of tapping. I did crack the plastic cap a little bit though.. it's ok I guess... or is it? Let me show you where I cracked it....ok the blue dot is where it's cracked.. kinda close to the screw hole for the cap... would this interfere with the L.e.d. for the CAS?
I had to BEAT mine in. I kept pulling it out and looking why it was so damn hard to get in. I dont ever remember a distributor being so hard to push in. I must of pulled it out and put it in ten or so times. I actually did some filing on the distributor to make it a bit easier. But when all was said and done it ran fine.
As long as you didnt bend the cas under that you should be ok.
As long as you didnt bend the cas under that you should be ok.
well I fixed my car.. the prob was AIC valve vaccum hose wasn't on (the short fat hose that curves up) and I had to fiddle with the distributor a little ...I accidentally plugged what I thought was a vaccum line with a bolt... turns out it was a small coolant hose and it's leaking.. .time to take the manifold off again tomorrow. So now i have to look at the FSM to see where this little hose went... after i fix that.. my car will be good!
Re: (tiger)
sorry, that came across as funny. If you want you can bypass that coolant line(near the throttle body, right?), if you don't have extremely cold winters(it's to prevent the throttle plate from freezing stuck). Do you have a factory service manual? It will help greatly with vac and coolant lines.tiger wrote: ...I accidentally plugged what I thought was a vaccum line with a bolt... turns out it was a small coolant hose...
Glad you figured it out!
Cheers,Jamie
Re: (slipnfall)
oh duh, I see you referenced having a FSM...n/m then
Re: (slipnfall)
well i'm about to go over there and take it off once again. I saw it leaking coolan t out of a smaller hose.. not one of the big main ones.. .it must be the one that attaches to the throttle body somehow.. i'll have to just trace the coolant lines and make sure I either attach it to where it is supposed to go.. or loop it into one of the big coolant lines.