Should I run Cooler Plugs? Please help!

[highkck]

Im currently am running NGK Iridums on my 240sx. I have alot of NA mods check my website if you need more info. Are Iridiums to hot for my set up? If so what should I move down to. I just ordered JWT N/A cams and Adj. Sprockets so please take that into consideration with the list I posted.

ECU:Jim Wolfe ECU TuningOils:15w50 Mobile One SytheticCooling:Greddy Aluminum RadiatorFlexikool Radiator Hose KitCusco Radiator ShroudCustom Aluminum Lower DiffuserNismo ThermostatRedline Water WetterElectric Fan install "Mechanical taken out"Forza Aluminum Coolant Catch TankFuel:Walbro 255lph Highflow Fuel Pump300zx TT Fuel FilterAutometer Fuel Pressure Gauge Custom installed into lineNismo Fuel Rail AdapterUniversal Nismo Adj. Fuel RegulatorRedline Fuel System Cleaner AdditiveSpark:NGK Iridium Spark PlugsNGK WiresGold Postive TerminalHKS Circle Ground SystemOptima Red TopSun Auto Hyper Voltage SystemSun Auto Exhaust Ground SystemExhaust:Hotshot 4-2-1 HeaderMagnaflow High-Flow Cat.Custom 2 1/4in. CatbackCarbon Fiber Ti MufflerNismo Exhaust Hanger BushingsAir:Injen Intake Cold AirMaxbored Throttle BodyComplete Port and Polish Job on the Intake ManifoldK&N BreatherInjen Heat ShieldFuel Saver Tornado (It works for gas mileage)Pulleys:Unorthodox Pulley Set Agency Power Underdrive Throttle Body Pulley

Im also running lightened driveshaft and flywheel which should play a key. This is my website: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/636608 , Thanks in advance.

[aaroneezee]

nice list of mods, got any dyno sheets? been wondering how much you can make with bolt ons since you got most of them and more.

[highkck]

Well I have dynoed it, but the place I get it done isnt good there machine isnt calabrated right they show good power band measures but the numbers are low on peak, but going off my quarter speeds and other places I should be about 210 at the crank. Im running the quarter at 91-92mph and I havent been back since the driveshaft and the cams will be here next week. If you do those horsepower calculators they give you better peak numbers because its off of your weight and trap speed which doesnt change unless modifications are done,even though your times will change all the time. I plan on going to atlanta to get my apexi SAFC tuned Ill post my dynos on my website.

[Ni2s4s0aSnX]

Nah, I'm sure the NGK are fine.

[Veriest1]

nice list of mods, got any dyno sheets? been wondering how much you can make with bolt ons since you got most of them and more.

Really?

ECU:Jim Wolfe ECU TuningOils:15w50 Mobile One SytheticCooling:Greddy Aluminum RadiatorFlexikool Radiator Hose KitCusco Radiator ShroudCustom Aluminum Lower DiffuserNismo ThermostatRedline Water WetterElectric Fan install "Mechanical taken out"Forza Aluminum Coolant Catch TankFuel:Walbro 255lph Highflow Fuel Pump300zx TT Fuel FilterAutometer Fuel Pressure Gauge Custom installed into lineNismo Fuel Rail AdapterUniversal Nismo Adj. Fuel RegulatorRedline Fuel System Cleaner AdditiveSpark:NGK Iridium Spark PlugsNGK WiresGold Postive TerminalHKS Circle Ground SystemOptima Red TopSun Auto Hyper Voltage SystemSun Auto Exhaust Ground SystemExhaust:Hotshot 4-2-1 HeaderMagnaflow High-Flow Cat.Custom 2 1/4in. CatbackCarbon Fiber Ti MufflerNismo Exhaust Hanger BushingsAir:Injen Intake Cold AirMaxbored Throttle BodyComplete Port and Polish Job on the Intake ManifoldK&N BreatherInjen Heat ShieldFuel Saver Tornado (It works for gas mileage)Pulleys:Unorthodox Pulley Set Agency Power Underdrive Throttle Body Pulley

Im also running lightened driveshaft and flywheel which should play a key. This is my website: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/636608 , Thanks in advance.

I'm leary of the Tornado. Otherwise it looks like a sweet S14.

[:: orion ::]

Im currently am running NGK Iridums on my 240sx.

What heat range...???

...

...Im running the quarter at 91-92mph and I havent been back since the driveshaft and the cams will be here next week.

210 is probably a little optimistic, unless you car weighs +3000lbs with you in it...and that's unlikely.

A 91-92 trap speed is around ~165rwhp...assuming a decent 60' time. And that'd be more like ~195 crank HP.

I was trapping ~92 with 161rwhp, FWIW. Running consistent low 15s...best was 15.2. A buddy of mine did 159rwhp and trapped 92.4 IIRC...ran 15.1 as his best ever. His S14 had no sunroof, though...so he had a ~50lb weight advantage over me.

Maybe with the cams and tuning you'll pick up a few HP...I'd love to see a N/A KA dyno at +170rwhp with stock compression.

Definitely post the sheet.

- Brian

[InsanityInc]

Well, I can advise you what to take OFF of your car:

The aluminum radiator. Put the stock one back, you don't need it unless you're overheating with a stocker, and if all you're doing is drag racing, well, you won't.

The "Sun Auto Hyper Voltage System". Useless. Just makes your plug wires wear out faster. There's no point to ramping your ignition voltage unless you have SIGNIFICANTLY higher than stock cylinder pressures.

The "Tornado". Do I even need to explain why?

[highkck]

The tornado helped the gas milage after the fuel pump upgrade. It works I get 2 miles more a gallon as far as horsepower not so much. The radiator isnt coming out it lowered my engine temps alot. With GA humitidy I recommend that. Im not trying to strip weight because I plan on boosting this year and after rebuilding I will hit the 400whp mark so 3000 pounds will still fly a$$. My car weighs over 3000 with me in it. The RXB bar is 30 pounds and the rotors up front are 25 pounds a piece. I do autocross and circuit track I drag just for fun. I know my car weighed 2920lbs before the lightened driveshaft and I weight 170-175. So do the math. Bryan Leich has dynoed over 175whp and he has less mods than me. My suspension weighs alot but makes up for it in the turns. Ive out handled some high dollar rides. Also you get higher wheel numbers when you replace motor mounts transmission mounts bushing anywhere ther is loss. That is what I have done.

[highkck]

The radiator isnt much heavier than the stock one surprisingly thats why I paid for the greddy one. With taking the mechanical fan and shroud out they weigh about the same.

[InsanityInc]

Lowering engine temps is not a good thing unless your car was overheating. Your engine NEEDS to be at a certain temperature to function correctly, especially electronically managed ones. Heat is the source of power for an engine, so if you're bleeding off more heat than you need to for your engine to not melt, you're just losing power for no reason.

You MIGHT see 1whp on a dyno from solid mounts. MAYBE. The actual purpose of solid mounts is basically to ensure that they don't break under race conditions, as stock mounts are prone to do.

Also "less mods"? Most of your mods do nothing to contribute to power, and some are actually detracting from it.

The reason you gained 2 MPG by putting the tornado in your car is that it RESTRICTS the intake, making your car produce LESS power. Less power = better gas milage.

Learn how your car works before you modify it.

[S13Coupe]

Shouldn't the thermostat control the engine temps, and keep it from getting too cold? Seems like you would have a problem if you were using a bigger radiator with either no thermostat, lower temp thermostat, or a stuck thermostat. But I was under the impression that the job of regulating engine temps was the thermostat's, not the radiator.

But feel free to explain to me why I'm wrong, as I'm always eager too learn.Mmmmmmmmmm....Knowlege

[onosqv]

Well I have dynoed it, but the place I get it done isnt good there machine isnt calabrated right they show good power band measures but the numbers are low on peak

And what were the dyno #'s anyway?

[highkck]

All I wanted to know is if I need to run cooler plugs why is it Im on a chopping block. Im sorry if Im not the most educated car guy. I buy the parts put them in and run it. I dont take notes. I have a lower temp thermostat and the radiator. I understand there is temperature your car has to run at. Nismo opens at 169 F and the factory one opens at 189 F. 189 is a little high espiecally for humid georgia. I bought the radiator for reilablity Im trying to produce good power reliably. I am going to boost some and a aluminum radiator is a good idea. If all I wanted to do was strip weight I wouldnt have bigger brakes, bigger sway bars, 9.5in wheels. I know what my goal is for the ride and I will hit it soon.

As far as mounts yes they are meant not to break, but the main reason you replace mounts is to transfer power without as much loss. Your motor torques with stock mounts that is loss to the flywheel which in turn is loss to the wheels. My motor doesnt torque. And Im sure the next comment will be well maybe you dont make enough power. I dont want to arque about how much Im pushing because for the past 2 years I have been making my suspension bullet prove and working on brakes and reliabilty items. Im going after straight power now so please keep the unhelpful comments to yourself unless you have a stiffer suspension set up!

If your really interested in knowing my numbers and helping me please shoot me an email at [email protected] if you just want to compare or tell me how much my ride sucks blow it out your a$$.

Back to my real question Im running NGK Iridium BKR5EIX-11. This is the factory heat setting in my FSM. I want to know if it is saver to run BKR6EIX-11s or even cooler. Im planning on boosting by november they will be cooler then so If Im straight now then let me know.

[onosqv]

Dood,

1) The reason you are on the "chopping" block is because most of the stuff you were listing are not hp adders - maybe a couple of them are for reliability/etc, but not hp adders.

2) We want a dyno chart because that is what pretty much 100% will justify colder plugs or not. Running colder plugs in a car that doesn't need it will take away power and work oddly. If you say you dyno your car & want to know if you want to run cooler plugs (which is based on hp increase), then we want to see the dyno #'s, not what you guess is your hp. Whether it's off or not isn't the point, we need a good basis/foundation to give you advice.

3) Ppl don't normally talk in crank hp on this board, and estimating your power from a quarter mile time is "okay", but that's not accurate.

4) About the radiator, a few fresh alloy guys did some independent testing on their sr's (not same as your setup, but you can extrapolate) and found that the stock radiator cooled better for a variety of reasons

5) If you are going boost, you should NOT be running n/a cams period. Those will work against you when turboing.

6) If you are wondering if you should run cooler plugs or not, I already answered this question that you posted on the other sub-forum, as well as most of the members here.

Until you can actually provide us w/ the dyno chart, which is what we will base our decision on whether or not you think it's accurate, the answer as you should have read through all these posts is a resounding:

No, it will not help you.

And to let you know, acting defensive and not taking proper criticism won't get you very far on this board.

And ppl are going to be mean on forums, deal with it, I have.

[InsanityInc]

Shouldn't the thermostat control the engine temps, and keep it from getting too cold? Seems like you would have a problem if you were using a bigger radiator with either no thermostat, lower temp thermostat, or a stuck thermostat. But I was under the impression that the job of regulating engine temps was the thermostat's, not the radiator.

Ish. But, not in this case.

See, your thermostat is in the coolant stream, so it only sees the coolant temp. If you're pulling a ton of heat away from your motor, then radiating it, your thermostat won't see a temperature that seems much lower. However, your engine will be at a much colder temperature. Your coolant temperature is only a reflection of the engine temperature.

[InsanityInc]

As far as mounts yes they are meant not to break, but the main reason you replace mounts is to transfer power without as much loss. Your motor torques with stock mounts that is loss to the flywheel which in turn is loss to the wheels. My motor doesnt torque. And Im sure the next comment will be well maybe you dont make enough power. I dont want to arque about how much Im pushing because for the past 2 years I have been making my suspension bullet prove and working on brakes and reliabilty items. Im going after straight power now so please keep the unhelpful comments to yourself unless you have a stiffer suspension set up!

Man. Lay off the crack.

The ~1cm movement of your engine on the motor mounts isn't even going to take 1 horsepower. Yes, it TECHNICALLY increases WHP, but not by any amount you will see (unless your motor mounts are straight up broken).

[highkck]

My mounts were broke I should have mentioned that. My motor was hitting my strut bar so I noticed a big difference with them. Sorry I got defensive. As far as the forums really being mean. I know thats why I dont post often. I just wasnt sure on the spark plugs because I read on another forum that a guy put one step colder plugs in and got gains he only had CAI, Header, and exhaust. I have more than that which is what raised the question.

[highkck]

The JWT cams are great for low boost and when you want to run high boost you use the adj sprokets for. JWT told me there great up to 15lbs.