Should I lift with 184,000 miles?

[Empty V]

So I've pushed my audio mods about as far as I want to go, I was thinking about adding a 2" or 4" lift to my 2001 QX4 which has 180,000 miles.

[DISCLAIMER] I know almost nothing about lifting a truck.

1) If I do a 2" lift and put some 32's on it would I be putting extra stress on the engine?2) Would a 4" lift with 33's be even worse?3) Will I have to get the trans re-geared?4) What drawbacks are there from either lift such as ride, gas mileage etc.

I know this has been covered but haven't found anything on a car with such high mileage, thanks!

Billy

[nissandoms47]

Meh I think you'll be fine. You can regear your axles if you want and that'll give you back your lost power. Id definatly go with a 4" kit. 33s would look so awesome.

[Empty V]

Have you lifted your truck? So it shouldn't be any more than usual wear and tear on the engine? How about the rest of the truck?

[93'Jag90'325ix98'QX4]

I dont see why not. I had an older Jeep Cherokee with similar mileage. Threw 3" lift and bigger tires on it. Not the most powerful truck in the world but your QX4 should be able to handles the mods with no problem considering you have more horses compared to my '98. You'll prolly sacrafice a little mpg is all..but if you do what you have planned I def wanna see the pics because that will look awesome!

You prolly already know this but 3" and up lift kits usually require an upgrade to completely different shocks/struts because the spacers wont work with factory shocks anymore. There'd be way too much stress and theyd be worthless. But if you're getting a whole kit it should come with all the upgrades you need.

[screwinitupagain]

I run a 2" coil lift with 32x11.5 BFG Mudterrains & theres not much power loss. Hell there's not much power to begin with.

[Empty V]

I run a 2" coil lift with 32x11.5 BFG Mudterrains & theres not much power loss. Hell there's not much power to begin with.

So I take it you just replaced the shocks, struts and coils right? My Big concern is engine stress and over straining it lowering the amount of life left.

Billy

[Qxxx4]

oh man that is going to look sweet with your paint scheme! go for it man! youve got the $$ to build the best system ive ever seen in a q (i mean that, you pay so much attention to detail) now with some agressive 32's...wow

and with the decrease in power you will basically be on par with our 3.3's LOL

keep us updated on your decision

[SnowSurfLax]

Meh I think you'll be fine. You can regear your axles if you want and that'll give you back your lost power. Id definatly go with a 4" kit. 33s would look so awesome.

I love how the only guy that I know of who knows how to fab up a sub frame lift says go for 4"!

1) If I do a 2" lift and put some 32's on it would I be putting extra stress on the engine?2) Would a 4" lift with 33's be even worse?3) Will I have to get the trans re-geared?4) What drawbacks are there from either lift such as ride, gas mileage etc.

1) Only slightly, besides you have a 3.5L right? Slap on a JWT pop charger & cams and a dual out exhaust and you'll be back to normal +1.2) Only for the CV joints. Definitely will need manual hubs.3) Only if you want to lose your highway speed.4) You'll get the topping out problem well documented at 4x4parts.com and you'll lose some mpg due to added weight and rolling resistance.

Just do it, I'm sure you'll love it. I wouldn't worry about the mileage (How did you get so many miles anyway?) but should focus on the engine. What's the compression on the cylinders? Any leaks? Any oil usage above normal? Do you hear any ticking? If everything's hunky dory and you've got compression within spec, I wouldn't worry about your engine.

[screwinitupagain]

Oh sh*t I didn't remember that you had the 3.5; do the lift you'll be fine. I didn't lose any on my mpg. Hell I only got 16-17mpg before, anyhow now I just get 16mpg no matter what

As far as the CV's if you aren't planning on wheelin it then you won't have any trouble, besides I don't think that manual hubs will work on QX4's (or at least I know that there has been trouble with them in pre-99.5).

[nissandoms47]

Hey Empty V,

I think you emailed me a few days ago and I emailed you back, did you ever get that? I think i made all the necessary accommodation's to make it through your firewall lol..

If he does just a subframe lift, he will keep all factory CV angles and all of that. obviously id replace the struts and shocks with new ones. Probably a kyb GR-2 in the front and some sort of nitrogen charged shock in the rear.

with just that 4" lift you'll be able to do 33s just fine, keep your factory CV angle, so you dont need to run manual hubs so your all mode transfer case will stay happy and to regain some of that lost acceleration and what not you can just easily regear your axles by completely replacing your front diff assemby with one out of a 96-00 r50 pathfinder SE (4.6s) and then any xterra,frontier,r50 pathfinder with the h233b and 4.6 gears will swap into the rear end. All you need for that is the 3rd member. I just barely did it and it made such a big difference. It feels like i went back to stock, with my 33 KM2s.

[Empty V]

Thanks for the info everyone I've still got a few questions. I really don't know much about lifting but I want to learn so can someone explain what manual hubs and CV's are? What is involved with re-gearing axles how much will it cost? Will I need to get new rims or can I run with the stockers? Is this something that has to be done all at once or can I do a little at a time like:

1. Do the subframe lift2. Replace shocks and Struts3. New tires4. Re-gear axels

[screwinitupagain]

If you are gonna run 33's you'll need new rims

[nissandoms47]

You can do it in that order but its just easier to replace the shocks and struts when you do the lift. You dont have to regear the axles, just if you want to. Like boston said you'll need to buy new wheels when you get tires.

[Empty V]

Just do it, I'm sure you'll love it. I wouldn't worry about the mileage (How did you get so many miles anyway?) but should focus on the engine. What's the compression on the cylinders? Any leaks? Any oil usage above normal? Do you hear any ticking? If everything's hunky dory and you've got compression within spec, I wouldn't worry about your engine.

I used to drive from Thousand Oaks to Hollywood everyday, now I do it about once a week but somehow I'm still racking up the miles. I'm not sure what my compression is at, I don't hear any ticking and I've never had my engine burn oil. So I guess I'm good to go.

Billy
Modified by Empty V at 11:27 AM 12/24/2008

[SnowSurfLax]

As far as the CV's if you aren't planning on wheelin it then you won't have any trouble, besides I don't think that manual hubs will work on QX4's (or at least I know that there has been trouble with them in pre-99.5).

From what the Aussies have experienced, there aren't any issues. It can get a little confused, but they say it resets when you shut it off. The only real issue would be that you don't try to flip it on while in motion with the hubs unlocked as the front diff wouldn't be moving since the CV's aren't turning it and you could damage it by having moving parts suddenly contacting non-moving parts.

I used to drive from Thousand Oaks to Hollywood everyday, now I do it about once a week but somehow I'm still racking up the miles. I'm not sure what my compression is at, I don't hear any ticking and I've never had my engine burn oil. So I guess I'm good to go.

Billy

Modified by Empty V at 11:27 AM 12/24/2008

Hmmm... Straight highway miles or typical 101 traffic? If you spent most of those miles in traffic I'd get a compression test. If it was all highway cruising, given what you said earlier, I'd say you're good to go.

... If he does just a subframe lift, he will keep all factory CV angles and all of that...

How does that work? I'm very curious since if I keep this rig I'm definitely getting as much lift as possible/useful.

[nissandoms47]

With just a 4" subframe lift and no lift springs it will drop the front diff and rack and the subframe down 4 inches and the kit comes with 4" strut spacers so everything is all factory just 4" lower which is how you get the lift. Or if you do the 4" subframe lift with a 2" spacer and the 2" lift springs, you'll get the stiffer ride from the springs and still have factory cv angles.