Should I keep VCT on S14 SR?

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LegacyOfPhoenix
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Well my s14 sr motor is blown and I need to get a new short block. The cast is unsalvagable. From what I understand the only difference between the s13 and s14 short blocks is the VCT. I've been on the search for a new s14 sr short block but they are much harder to get a hold of then s13 castings. Should I continue looking for a s14 short block or get a s13 short block and not worry about the VcT?

If the VCT is the only difference in the blocks, is it worth keeping? When I had the motor running the vct wasn't even hooked up because it wasn't working properly. It seems like most aftermarket camgears bypass vct anyway, but a few are compatible.
Modified by LegacyOfPhoenix at 12:16 AM 8/25/2008


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Neil
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The only good reason to disable VCT is if you are running aftermarket camshafts, or if it is malfunctioning and you are forced to drive the vehicle before you diagnose it.

What all about the S13 vs. S14 block, though? What's your real question?

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LegacyOfPhoenix
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Well I need to get a new short block to replace mine. And I am wondering if I should just get a s13 block instead of trying to find a s14 block. If so I'll just find an s13 block and put my s14 head on it. I would like to keep the VCT, but i've been reading around and it seems it's not even noticeable if you have it or not. I am doing a full engine rebuild. So your saying if I'm going to get aftermarket camshafts anyway I shouldn't use the VCT anyways?

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Neil
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I'd like to see whether or not that's a possibility. I'd put my money on the passageways for oil and coolant to and from the head not being the same.. as is the case with S14 vs S13 KA24DE's.

And aftermarket camshafts are not ground to be used with VCT, so you Must disable it in that case.

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LegacyOfPhoenix
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Neil wrote:I'd like to see whether or not that's a possibility. I'd put my money on the passageways for oil and coolant to and from the head not being the same.. as is the case with S14 vs S13 KA24DE's.

And aftermarket camshafts are not ground to be used with VCT, so you Must disable it in that case.
Well searching on the net leads me to dead ends on whether or not s14 head on a s13 block can be done. But the shop that's rebuilding my engine said they've done it before many times.

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jr_ss
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The blocks are the same, except for the hole drilled to feed the VCT solenoid. They make cams that are compatible with the VCT for a reason. You don't have to get rid of it, if you don't want too. I'll have my S14 Sr up for sale in a short while, if you can hold out. If not no big deal.

Glenn

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karmakaze
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Neil wrote:I'd like to see whether or not that's a possibility. I'd put my money on the passageways for oil and coolant to and from the head not being the same.. as is the case with S14 vs S13 KA24DE's.

And aftermarket camshafts are not ground to be used with VCT, so you Must disable it in that case.
this is misinformation. i have had 2 s14 sr20det's and each had after market cams and each retained the vtc sprocket.

there is no reason to disable vtc, it is a good thing. it helps with low end torque. i have posted quite a bit of information regarding vtc. keep it if you can.

however, you can use an s13 head on a s14 block if you have to. everything else matches up the exact same.

it is a little difficult finding a s14 block. i actual had to replace mine due to bad a ****ty sleeve install. it took me about 1 month to find a bare s14 block.

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LegacyOfPhoenix
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Yeah, I would like to keep VCT. But it seems it's more trouble to find a s14 bare block just to keep VCT.

So I guess my real question is "Is it worth it"? spending the time and money to find a s14 block when s13 blocks seem to be numerous and easy to find. Is the performance improvement that significant?

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jr_ss
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Spend the money and build it. There's quite a few blocks floating around right now that just need a rebuild. Even if you just did a factory rebuild you'd be better off...

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Neil
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I stand corrected. I've never owned an S14 SR so my info was only based on what I thought I knew about vct from vaguely remembering past comments on forums.

After doing a little bit of research just now, apparently vct will technically function with any cam, as long as you keep the o.e. sprocket since the way it works is only by retarding the cam timing, to help low end torque. If you get a cam that is too aggressive I assume the effects of vct become nullified, which I imagine would be a good enough reason to disable it?

The general gist of what I'm finding is if you're going to track a car, it's better to do it with an S13 SR because you're not going to be operating in the low rpm range anyway, and not having vct means there's less stuff to break. For the street, VCT is supposedly the bee's knees.

Legacy, are you certain your motor is irreparable? If you didn't throw a rod out the side of it, you've probably got a few possibly cost effective options besides trying to find another shortblock.

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jr_ss
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VCT can advance and/or retard up to 20 degrees of cam timing. There are plenty of cars out there running VCT with long duration and high lift cams and making good solid numbers through out the powerband. I'm personally not disabling it, because it should help the 20g spool faster...

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karmakaze
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Neil wrote:I stand corrected. I've never owned an S14 SR so my info was only based on what I thought I knew about vct from vaguely remembering past comments on forums.

After doing a little bit of research just now, apparently vct will technically function with any cam, as long as you keep the o.e. sprocket since the way it works is only by retarding the cam timing, to help low end torque. If you get a cam that is too aggressive I assume the effects of vct become nullified, which I imagine would be a good enough reason to disable it?

The general gist of what I'm finding is if you're going to track a car, it's better to do it with an S13 SR because you're not going to be operating in the low rpm range anyway, and not having vct means there's less stuff to break. For the street, VCT is supposedly the bee's knees.

Legacy, are you certain your motor is irreparable? If you didn't throw a rod out the side of it, you've probably got a few possibly cost effective options besides trying to find another shortblock.
i am running vtc on my current block. sleeved to 2.2L, machined combustion chamber, 270in 260out tomei procams, and tomei solid lifters.

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LegacyOfPhoenix
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Neil wrote:Legacy, are you certain your motor is irreparable? If you didn't throw a rod out the side of it, you've probably got a few possibly cost effective options besides trying to find another shortblock.
Yeah...I'm possitive it is dead. A fingernail sized chuck somehow got blown out of the cast on the top near one of the cylinder walls between the head and the block. Which then cause all the compression to go into the coolant system. Which caused my radiator to crack from too much pressure. it's a goner maybe i can get a picture up for sng :P

Thanks for all the info guys! Hopefully I can find a s14 block, I'd rather have that for my full rebuild.
karmakaze wrote:i am running vtc on my current block. sleeved to 2.2L, machined combustion chamber, 270in 260out tomei procams, and tomei solid lifters.
niice. Right now i'm looking around for what I want to replace with aftermarket and what not too because of budget. any suggestions on most benificial parts to replace w/ aftermarket? like. first bc springs / retainers, pistons then etc. etc...

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jr_ss
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Pistons/piston ringlands tend to be the weaker link in the Sr engine. The rods should be good for 400hp (although there have been higher numbers done) but if you have the means, replace em' with Eagle's. They are less than $400 for a set and come with 3/8 ARP bolts. I think I've seen piston and rod combo's going for less than $800. If you can't then just do pistons and you should be ok well into the 400hp realm if that's what you are looking for. Whatever you decide to do, make sure you use quality parts. Do some research on the items before you purchase them. If your engine builder isn't a huge dealer in parts, it'll probably be cheaper for you to purchase them, rather than him. It's really up to you on what you want/can afford. If you have the time, then save up for the goods, if not do what you have to, to get it back on the road.


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LegacyOfPhoenix
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Yeah, I'm doing a full rebuild, so everything is either being bought brand new oem or aftermarket. I'm just doing lots of research on the best route to go without spending too outrageous of an amount. My budget is pretty decent though, so we'll see.


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