should I drain my mobil 1 now??

[Dinkydow]

I recently changed to 10-30 Mobil1 and have noticed a valve lifter clatter that wasn.t there before, so I am going to drain in and put regular oil back in but all of a sudden I find out I have to make a 900 mile trip., can I wait until I get back or should I dump it asap??? Thanks Wayne

[PalmerWMD]

No dont drain it.Its still a good oil perhaps a bit thin.If u wanna change, change to MOBIL1 0w-40, or Valvoline SYnPower 5w-40 or any one of these oils which all meet MB229.1 or better:http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....229.1

Fred...

[Q45tech]

Never had a clatter problem in 248,000 miles with 10w-30 Mobil 1.

Of course if there is a lot of wear or you have varnished HLA from previous oil abuse.

All Xw-30 weight oils have to be within 4% viscosity [of same] at 212F to be sold.

Try a can of BG MOA [now called BG 111] I always use it with Mobil 1.

[PalmerWMD]

VISCOSITY @ 100deg C (=212F)

SAE grades RANGE (cST)

20: 5.60-9.29 30: 9.30-12.49 40: 12.50-16.2950: 16.30-21.8960: 21.90-26.09

As can be inferred from this table, ranges in Cst 212F viscosity can be significant.

For 30 weights:The middle of spec is 10.9 Cst. MOBIL1 xw-30 weight oils always fall below that (mid 9's cSt)Permitted Variance from center, is approx +/- 14%.14% more Cst above center of spec ,is still sold as a 30 weight oil, as is 14% less cst below center spec, for a total variance of 86% to 114% of center of spec for oils sold as 30 weights, IAW API standards.So approx 28% variance.In other words, a 30 weight oil near the bottom of the spec, gives about a quarter less resistance to flow, than one near the top of spec, with predicable impact on oil pressures.Or to paraphrase once more, an 30weight near teh top of the spec "cushions" by over a quarter more ,than one on the bottom of the spec.All percents are approximate as I didnt feel like searching for my calculator

Fred..

PS: Sorry Dennis, even so, you are still the main Guru here:bowdown

[Dinkydow]

t hanks for replies!! There shouldn't be that much wear, it has 53k on it and did have the oil changed at 3750 mile intervals before I got it. I will change it at 2 to 3k though. I was con cerned but after hearing from you guys I will wait and at least put 2k on it before changing it I will check out the 10-40 Mobil or go to Valovline syn, Have you guys heard of royal purple?? Thanks for advise. Wayne

[tomiata]

Wayne kos,

I know guys who swear by Royal Purple, I know others who swear by Redline. For me personally, I use either Valvoline SynPower or Mobil 1 and change oil & filter frequently (~3,000 miles). There are lots of opinions of course, but for me as long as you use a good quality oil and keep it clean, you should be in good shape for a lot of mileage. I don't believe the extra $$ really buys you anything.

Having said that, I will tell you that Redline transmission fluid makes all the difference!

Tom

[Dinkydow]

Tom, Thanks for info. Do you know is there someplace I can order redline over the net? I have looked for it but couldn't find any locally?? Thanks Wayne

[AZhitman]

SummitRacing.com

Good prices, free shipping.

[atlanta_shooter]

With all due respect, why in the world would you do 3,000 mile changes running Mobil1? You are literally throwing your money away. If you want to prove it to yourself, do an oil analysis for about 20 bucks (cheaper than 5 qts plus filter) and I betcha it will come back saying you are in great shape. I run mine the full 7500 miles, even though analysis has shown me it doesn't need changing...old habits do die hard. One thing I rarely see mentioned on this board is the importance of using a high efficiency oil filter. The two best on the market to my knowledge are the Mobil1 filter and the Amsoil filter. The Amsoil very slightly edges out the Mobil1. The other key thing that keeps your engine clean is a high quality air filter, and no I would never use a K&N filter unless I was actually racing. I use Mobil1 0w-30 or 5w30 if I can't get my hands on Amsoil...it really is the best.

[DAEDALUS]

What does an oil analysis tell you exactly? I agree that it's a great idea...I like quantitative info. But I personally wouldn't know what to do with the data. Would it tell me the % of contaminants in the oil? "Lubricity?" What would those numbers mean, who's opinion would the meaning be based on, and what assumptions would be made? I doubt any analyst could be so candid as to say, "Mr. Customer, based on these 3 oil samples, each taken after 3,000 miles in your 1990 Infiniti Q45, with 217,000 miles, if you change your oil every 5500 miles, you have a 68% chance of the engine lasting to 300,000 miles before either compression or bearing wear falls out of spec, given similar driving habits and assuming nothing else fails".

[maxnix]

Probably the main benefits of oil analysis is that is will tell you after 3,000 miles you have about the same level of contaminants whether you run conventional or synthetic. The synthetic might still possess better lubricant properties, especially at the extremes of temperature and pressure, but the best oil is always fresh oil that meets the specifications of the operational demands of the engine.

Q45tech had some great web references in his posts on past oil threads. Not reading his references when they are current means you may have missed your chance as web pages do not live forever.

[DAEDALUS]

Sorry, I'll hang my head in shame. I'll be sure to strike while the iron's hot next time. Yes, they're great references. Allow me to quote from one:

"It is this final part, the conversion of analytical data into valuable operating information, that is the most subjective and controversial.

In most situations, however, the analytical data alone from an individual sample does not provide enough information to make more subtle judgments about oi or equipment condition. To provide more meaningful information about operating conditions, it is necessary to compare current sample data to previous samples, or to data from the same type of equipment in similar service.

Comparisons can be made of engine types, operating climate or environment, severity of service, frequency of use, and/or fleet size. Industrial operations can be compared according to equipment type, intermittent or continuous service, operating environment and severity of duty. In this way one operator benefits from the experience a lab has had with other oil analysis customers.

In summary, experience is the key to effective data interpretation. Lab technicians must have experience interpreting data from a variety of equipment types, each having different operating conditions and system problems. The more experience they have, the greater likelihood that they will have seen your particular type of operation before and solved similar problems."

Again I don't see much value in an oil analysis without knowing what to do with the results. Unless of course someone has access to analysis results (composition, oil type and interval) for the VH45DE at varying mileage till end of life. Regardless, in my case the car already has 200k+ miles and I don't know with certainty the maintenance history from before I bought it. I want the engine to last as long as possible, which is why I use synth and change the oil so frequently. The fact that others here who possess incredible knowledge of oils and maintenance do the same is enough justification for me.

[maxnix]

Daedalus, continous periodic data in context is crucial to arrive at any meaningful conclusions from its analysis.

Of course, inferring the particular from the general cannot be done accurately.

Your remarks are on point.

[Q45tech]

What is $25 [the price of Mobil 1] when you have the car on the lift, belly pan off to change the filter every 90 days any way and are spending 15 minutes to look over everything.You spend time to check the color and smell of all the other fluids --- with oil you just change it.

$100 oil vs $48 oil per year is such an insignificant part of the $3,000 maintenance and repair budget.

Typically 90 days runs 3750-4,000 miles for me.

The problem is not that the oil has failed it is just dirty and the filter can't remove the microscopic portions I want removed.

Once you get 250,000 miles [and the engine is still running well] you sure don't want to take any chances as a $6,000 engine job is the downside.

The same with tires they are essentially worthless when more than half worn in rain [even dry] as the compound has hardened.............but many keep them till the cord shows to avoid the $450.

[forecast]

Q45tech ... just curious could you break down how you spend that $3000?

I'm figuring that's more than most people spend on purchasing cars a year. (My boss is the sort that squirels away $3600 a year and buys a new american suv every 100,000 miles)

So far this year I've averaged about $700 a month on my '90Q between purchase price (auto loan), repairs, and regular checkups (not including consumables) and I'm starting to wonder if I should just be leasing a new I30 for that much.

dan

[maxnix]

You will own the Q, you are renting the I. Big difference.

[forecast]

i'm not seriously considering renting anything. I love the ownership aspects. I'm really just curious about how enthusists spend money on maintainence.

One of my favorite aspects of ownership is sitting in the car after I just started it and waiting a full minute before I engage reverse, listening, straining my ears, wondering if that whine is the fuel pump or the weed eater down the street.

Meanwhile my next door neighbor jumps in his lease and peels away, cold oil trapped in the pan - but he dosen't care - by the time the punishment he's inflicting on the bearings becomes apparent, his time with the car will be a distant fond memory. No I'm not bitter at all, why do you ask.

Dan

[atlanta_shooter]

This is the best information on motor oils that I have ever seen http://www.motor-oil-bible.com/oil-bible.html

[natsoundup]

If you are spending 700 dollars a month...you should be leasing an I-30....

Do you realize that for that amount a 15 year 100k mortgage would be less...

I know it's not apples to apples...but I sure hope you have a decent roof over your head before you spend that much money on a 13 year old car.

Sorry for the lecture.

[maxnix]

So far this year I've averaged about $700 a month on my '90Q between purchase price (auto loan), repairs, and regular checkups (not including consumables) ...

As time heals all pocket books, the cost per month will decline dramatically as the engine overhaul is amortized over its life.

Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t

[forecast]

thanks maxnix, you're right of course. This year I'll pay $4000 for the car, $1300 guides, about $2200 for the rebuild, and another $400 for prevenative maint. - $7500.

Next year hopefully it will be under $2K + consumables.

All for a car that drives nice, looks good and is 100x more comfortable than a 2000 Hyndai I was in yesterday.

I'm still curious how Q45tech budgets his $3000 - I guess I'll have to email him direct?

dan

[maxnix]

I'm still curious how Q45tech budgets his $3000 - I guess I'll have to email him direct?

It's all in the posts. Annual fluid flushes, rail flush, fogger, etc. Frequent tire rotations and balances, oil and filter. Alignment. Pads and rotors prorated. And then the whammy you don't expect despite all the precautions (turbine sensor, cooling fan, evaporator, lock control,rear subframe, hub, bearing,...something).

Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t

[longrunQ]

I've had four cars. the Engines on two of them died. THey were the engines that I had mobil1 in. I read somewhere that mobil1 destroys engines and from my experience, its true.

Soon after I put it in my Q I started hearing that clatter that you describe and it was not long before that engine locked.

So, in answer to your question, save your car. Drain the Mobil1

[Aus94Q45]

Funny, in my wife's Landcruiser, a change to Mobil 1 stopped the valve clatter that we heard from time to time on cold start up. I have never had any problems in previous cars running Mobil 1.

[maxnix]

I read somewhere that mobil1 destroys engines and from my experience, its true.

Soon after I put it in my Q I started hearing that clatter that you describe and it was not long before that engine locked.

So, in answer to your question, save your car. Drain the Mobil1

I bet Dennis is really nervous about his car imploding.

Seriously, don't you think the condition of the engines had more to do with their failures than switching to Mobil 1? There is no necessary connection to show cause and effect in your statement.

Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t

[elwesso]

As long as the oil meets all those requirements fred spoke of, and you change it regularly, it cant make that much of a difference.

[sijoko]

longrunQ, how many miles were on the engines when Mobil 1 was first used? Were they new or did they have high mileage?

I started on synthetic oil at 68,000 miles, when I bought the car. Now it's at 163,000 and it is still going strong.

I use Mobil 1 - 5w30 with a little Marvel Mystery Oil thrown in for ambiance. I change the oil every 3000-4000 miles.

To me oil is cheaper than an engine rebuild. Plus I like to see a nice, golden color when I pull the dipstick.

[Q45tech]

The $3,000 is an average of the total costs over 6 years from 100,000 miles to 250,000 miles REDUCED BY the EXTRA Expenditures [say $6,000 -$7,000] that I felt necessary to keep the car as new mechanically that most wouldn't deem necessary......like a new rear subframe, or changing a perfectly working transmission just because it had 178,000 miles and might fail soon! Changing a 13 year working evaporator to try to improve the AC cooling by a few degrees, changing a working 13 year old alternator before it failed, installing a custom made radiator, lowering the car with Eibach springs, adding a rear sway bar, front strut tower brace, changing batteries every 3 years, replacing tires frequently and balancing every 3k or turning the rotors every 6,000 miles.........changing fuel pumps before they fail....etc, etc.

Those that drive less than 25,000 miles per year over 6 years would spend less but 15-20 cents per mile driven is a good average. 20 x 15K= $3,000 and 15 x 20k= $3,000.

Tires and brakes are very incremental with mileage.

[forecast]

thanks dennis

[landtodd]

So far this year I've averaged about $700 a month on my '90Q between purchase price (auto loan), repairs, and regular checkups (not including consumables) and I'm starting to wonder if I should just be leasing a new I30 for that much.

Yeah, but Dan, think what you're NOT paying in depreciation . . . my '92 Q costs me $9 a day whether I drive it or not. Add depreciation of