Short Intake from stock intake parts write up (56k unfriendly)

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
madbouncy
Posts: 436
Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 6:47 am
Car: 93 Mazda RX7 R1
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I apologize for being so long winded. Feel free to reply with any suggestions or corrections. Thanks.

Pics are like 1024x768 I think, right click and hit "View Image" (Firefox) to see it bigger if it's not that size.

Prerequisits Have moved your battery to the trunk.

Difficulty Easy (hell I did it, that should show how easy it is)

Supplies 3" aircraft clamp (or two put together like I had to do) 3 1.5-2" aircraft clamps 2 small breather filters (optional) a few zipties stuff to plug the hoses and holes TFE Paste with Teflon (sealant) found it in garage 1 of these atleast (2 if you're going to leave the valve cover hose on your intake)...

1 of these if you're going to leave the little hose on your intake...

Tools Dremel Drill (1/2" bit and 3/8" bit) Knife

How my engine bay looks as of writing this (working on getting rid of the AIV)

To start off go ahead and remove the stock intake. Take off all the hoses that connect to it. There should be 5 hoses.

The big one on the bottom goes to a resonator and it makes it easier if you go ahead and remove that. You can leave the box in there but getting the hose out of there is recommended.

The next hose to deal with is the one coming off the valve cover, you can see in the picture I put a small filter on it, however, you can plumb it back into the intake if you don't want to pay for the filter. The hose connected to the rubber peice between the throttle and the intake. I went ahead and plugged that up. And yes I used a pencil wrapped in duct tape and then used an aircraft clamp on it.

The hose coming out from underneath the intake manifold must stay on the intake, if it's off, my car would idle but if you revved it, as soon as the rpms started to fall it would just stall. (should be part of the AIV system I belief) I used an aircraft clamp on it because it had a bad bend going back onto the tube so I wanted to make sure it wouldn't leak.

The small hose on the bottom deals with the AIV system. You can leave it on the intake if you are keeping those otherwise you can go ahead and just remove all those. I left mine on but am looking into removing that stuff, will post an update if I do. (I took this off and plugged this connecter. It only deals with a line coming from the AIV, if you remove your AIV system you can plug the hose that comes from the intake manifold that T's into this smaller hose and the hose going into the AIV on the other side of the engine. I just plugged it with a screw.)

The last hose to deal with is the one that came out of the intake box on the exhaust side. I put a breather on it but you could just remove all the AIV stuff. I'm planning on trying that later.Here's the link to remove the AIV.zerothread?id=26150



That will take care of the hoses. The next thing to do is go ahead and cut the bottom off your intake box, I did a sloppy job with a knife and then went back and used a dremel later on. I recommend just using the dremel all the way around it.

While on the airbox, you should plug up the hole the AIV went into, won't effect the car but it does run a chance of letting you suck something in since there's no fitler there. I had a little cap in the garage that I used. It was a little too big so I wrapped the hole in ducttape, put the cap over and then used an aircraft clamp.

Now go ahead and cut a hole where the battery use to be. I had to cut through the tray and rip up that spot, then I cut through the piece under that after. Sadly the battery tray was harder to cut through then the car.

On my car the wires connected to the MAF were wrapped, so I had to cut the wrap open about half way so I could fold the wire back around to the other side.

Now you can get an idea of how your intake will sit so you can begin to cut the stock intake tube. Also, I recommend loosening the clamp on the radiator hose to let you twist it. If you twist the hose around a little you can have it bend down to let the intake sit ontop of it and still have almost no crimp on the hose.

This doesn't have to be perfect since the rubber coming off the throttle will allow some movement. I would say to use the end that came off the maf side of the intake. I used the other one because I wanted to keep the big hose hole, I didn't know I could get rid of that, at that time I had no idea where the hose went and thought it was for the A/C or something. Obviuosly since I did my differently it will look different than yours, but yours should be cleaner. Go ahead and test fit so that you can get an idea where on the intake you cut, it should just be a little after the bend. After that I'd say cut a little bit past where you thought.

From here go ahead and test fit the piece, it won't be easy but you can shove that end into the rubber piece coming off the throttle. Go ahead and cut and shave the corners as necassary, but do not let any grooves in there, it has to be smooth so the rubber can make a seal. Since this piece is not a circle, use the 3" aircraft clamp and get it very tight, the clamp should take the shape of the intake tube to make a good tight fit.

By the way, the big plastic cap on this is for plugging up the big hose, however, you shouldn't have to do this since you won't have it on there. Plus you won't have to use another clamp to attach the flexy piece that connected to the maf to the intake hose like I did.

You will need to drill 1 to 3 holes depending on what you keep. The hose coming off from the bottom of the manifold is a must and I used a 1/2 drill bit for the hole. I also connected the small hose from the bottom which I used a 3/8 bit for the hole. For the AIV going back into the intake instead of a breather, I'd say go with another 1/2 hole. Apply some sealant and screw in the little connectors.

Now go ahead and hook up the intake like normal. Plug the hoses back in to make sure they fit snug, if the little normal rings don't hold it on well enough use an aircraft clamp. Also, ziptie any wires or hoses to get them where you want (mostly away from the fan for me). Adust the radiator hose to have it underneath the intake and with no obvious crimps. RETIGHTEN THE CLAMP ON THE RADIATOR HOSE!!!!

Go ahead and start her up to see if there are any leaks, definitly fix those if there are, however I didn't have any.

This was done in notepad so I don't care about typos and I'll make edits about the hoses as I explore them today.

I'll try to get a stock intake pipe and redo it the better way that I wrote in this, instead of the way I did it so I can show pictures of where I cut and stuff. Assuming I find an intake pipe by tomorrow.

Stuff I took off (fan shroud)
Modified by madbouncy at 11:24 PM 5/29/2005


Nismo_Freak
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Put your fan shroud back on.

madbouncy
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I would but I'm getting an electric fan. Would the shroud still work with a FAL 15"?

Nismo_Freak
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madbouncy wrote:I would but I'm getting an electric fan. Would the shroud still work with a FAL 15"?
No, continue w/ electric fan and disregard my comment.

Atomic-S14
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Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2005 11:58 pm
Car: 2009 Altima 2.5S

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nice write up. i should try this mod too.did you move the battery to the trunk, because you had msd? thing taking up the space on the other side?how did you wire up the battery, want to know what you used and how you ran the cable to the trunk.

sXi
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where did you buy the small filters?

madbouncy
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Autozone has the filters, they're cheap ones, I was thinking of going to a catchcan but I was lazy.

I moved the battery to the trunk before I got the MSD stuff. I'm on an never ending journey to free up as much room in my engine bay as possible.

I just got some 1 gauge wire, I think I bought 12 feet, and ran it from the positive terminal wire to the rear trunk. There's a hole you can use that's in the very corner of the passenger side. If you look from the engine bay you'll see a little hole that looks into the fender. You can see through that hole on the firewall that there is a rubber gaurd sealing up a hole. If you thread the wire through there it'll end up next to the ecu. I just ran it under the edge of the carpet and then under the back seat. From there it goes through the big hole behind the back seat (I have a coupe) and to the positive terminal.

For the negative I just ran like 1 foot of wire from the negative to the closest hole I could put a bolt through to secure it. Make sure to scrape off all the paint where you have the ground connect.

If you keep the stuff that secures down the battery normally, you can just drill holes in your trunk and get those ring things. They're like a screw and it has a ring on the other end. ---O (forgot the name of them) kind of like that. Then just tighten the battery down like normal. I lost the stuff used to hold down the battery except for the top peice, so I just went to autozone and picked up the little rods for the battery they sell. think I used the 8-9" ones they have.

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Red coupe
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Good stuff man
Modified by Red coupe at 1:00 AM 6/5/2005

madbouncy
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Car: 93 Mazda RX7 R1
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Sorry that I wont be able to do any updates on it. I did take out the AIV and charcoal canister. The AIV is what is connected to that small hose. So now the only hose coming off my intake is the one that I used the bigger connector on. That hose leads under the intake manifold to the other part of the AIV system that helps stabilize your idle I think.

So far the car runs better than ever, my idle smoothed out a bit but it was good to start with so it just kind of made the needle vibrate less. It pretty much sits like a rock now. There are 4 hoses underneath the intake, you can see a clip coming off the coolant return line that holds them. I plugged all 4 of those with screws. For the line that goes into the frame of the car that came off the charcoal canister, I went ahead and just bent it and threw a ziptie on it. (ran out of air craft clamps ) Then there is a hard line coming off it that goes up to the firewall next to the brake booster. I cut the hardline right next to the brake booster and crimped the end of it closed. Also put a bolt and then used an aircraft clamp for the hose coming off the exhaust. I couldn't get the piece off the downpipe to use a nickle so I had to do this. Yay for rust!

Sorry for the lack of pictures. My car will be in my brother's hands (he's totatled one car and he's junked three, sadly I trust him) for the next month. I'll return in july but I assume this thread will be buried by then. If I have time tomorrow I'll try and take some pictures. But I have a family BBQ thing and I leave early Monday morning.

240marcuSX
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that is the most ghetto-riffic write up ever. i like it.


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