Seems that even w/ my stillen adjustable arms I am not achievng a perfect allignment;. Think it was Falk that discussed shimming the bolts to the upper arms to get greater adjustability. Searched but could not find info ???

dont know how falk would know since Y33 dont have upper control arms..... your just going to be putting washers behind the upper link bracket... Take the upper link bracket off, put a washer or 2 behind each of the 4 bolts and reinstall.

Is this the thread?

zer...age=3

Q45tech says this on page three:

"Negative camber is so easy to fix [just from lowering] asumming nothing else is bent or worn.You just get AN ACCURATE ALIGNMENT, then shim the upper link rear mount to set it at -0.7 degrees. Just a little trig to calculate shim thickness install in an hour or two and good to go."

96Qowner wrote:Is this the thread?

zer...age=3

Q45tech says this on page three:

"Negative camber is so easy to fix [just from lowering] asumming nothing else is bent or worn.You just get AN ACCURATE ALIGNMENT, then shim the upper link rear mount to set it at -0.7 degrees. Just a little trig to calculate shim thickness install in an hour or two and good to go."

thanks for the info!!!

jamesmost wrote:Think it was Falk that discussed shimming the bolts to the upper arms to get greater adjustability.

It was Q45tech, many years ago, who first noted that one could shim the mounting plate for the upper link.

Simple use High Scool Trig to calcute the distance for a 1 degree camber with tire loaded radius [half of 26" less compression 12.5"].............it is about 0.218"-0.225" per degree. {sine of camber angle x loaded radius]

You can get precise if you know the camber accurately and exact loaded radius. As the weight comes off the tire the camber changes slightly.

http://www.online-calculators....s.php

Hopefully you see how worn bushings or bent arms that are not visible can major contributors to excesss camber.

Shock towers [where the upper link mounts can bend and deflect after years of abuse [why one uses a STRONG RIGID Strut tower brace] to slowly force the inward sag out back to oem.

Many times the 3rd link is bent inwards creating extra negative camber.

The camber gain curves are set by the upper link angled away towards the rear. Why when you lower the body the static point on the curve moves downward [more negative] as sitting still the upper link is no longer parallel with road.

elwesso wrote:dont know how falk would know since Y33 dont have upper control arms.....

Especially since this is the only car I've worked on for the past 21 years.

The factory bolts are not long enough for much of an adjustment. The 300zx guys sell a kit (I have it). It is 8 new bolts, and pre-engineered spacers designed for the 1" drop Eibach springs.

It is a 20 minute modification, and much less than the adjustable SPL upper links.

I bought them because I have brand new upper links, and didn't want to waste the $200 I spent on them.

You can easily fit up to 2 sets of washers behind the Upper link mounts.

After that, thread engagement becomes iffy.

If you still need more, then either buy the kit mentioned by Jeff or get new longer bolts and weld a bridge between them similar to the factory setup.

On my setup with Eibachs, I used 2 sets of washers for the passenger and 1 set for the drivers.

Be specific as to washer thickness..............washers vary by thickness and manufacturer. "I used two washers" is about as broad a statement as I have heard..................each 0.1 degree will be ~~0.025".

Must get use to specifying things in 0.1 degree, especially camber as both sides need to be within at least 0.25 degrees [as loaded as driven] otherwise the car will have assymetric handing.

The 1 degree spread of the oem alignment numbers is a bad joke to avoid warranty claims.

Most likely the washers that board members will be buying are not available based on thickness but on the size of the hole, e.g. 7/16".

I said 2 washers because I was able to use that number without problems.

As far as figuring out the amount of distance that the mounts need to be moved, I used a camber gauge to measure before and after.

Why would you use an English 7/16" measurement when everything on the car is metric. Why would you go to the trouble of correcting if you don't care about doing it accurately and correctly.

An M10 washer for 11mm [~~7/16"] can vary by thickness 2.3-1.7mm and still be in standard. = 0.0905511"========== 0.0669291".

Bright metric vs Black metric

Not sure you want a 35% correction variance in resetting camber.

An typical SAE 7/16" washer with 5/64" thickness is roughly 0.078125" +- a lot thick0.22/0.78125 avg= 0.28 degree camber correction say 0.3 degrees but depending on washer brand it would be 0.2, 0.3 or 0.4 degrees.

SO IN THEORY one could always correct up to 0.8 [maybe 1 degree EXCESSIVE negative camber back to a PERFECT 0.7 degree negative camber