shake after cv replacement 2010 Rouge

Nissan Rogue forum - Includes Nissan Qashqai and Nissan Dualis as well.
karpat
Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Feb 26, 2014 3:09 pm
Car: 2010 Rogue Basic
Location: Bridgewater Ma.

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I had new front cv axles installed due to ripped boots. As soon as I pulled out of the garage I felt a shake in the front end. If I talk off going straight or turning left at normal speed about 40% of the time I will get a shake in the front end which stops after hitting about 23 mph. Brought the car back to the mechanic who put it up on the lift and checked every bolt which was installed on the new cv axles, all were tight. Started up the car on the lift but no shake. Very hard to replicate but on a road test with the mechanic was able to replicate the problem. He has ordered a new set of axles and I'm praying this solves the problem. Has anyone experienced this kind of a problem? I never had any shake prior to the installation of the new axles.


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centralcoaster33
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It seems to me that you'd either have to skip a step or get the wrong part to get a shake. Make sure he's not substituting a similar part or skipping a step maybe. You can help him get access to the FSM for specific instructions if he's not using it already I guess. They have to hammer in the shafts at some point. There's a plate in there and the FSM says 'never reuse plate' so that should have been replaced during the work as well. I'm not sure what else could have gone wrong, maybe someone else knows. At least your mechanic is taking care of it for now. Sorry about the headache.

Here's a link to the FSM chapters:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Rogue/2010/

Here's a link directly to the Front Axle chapter (I was looking around page 18):
http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual? ... e/2010/FAX

karpat
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Joined: Wed Feb 26, 2014 3:09 pm
Car: 2010 Rogue Basic
Location: Bridgewater Ma.

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Thanks for the feedback. I did notice that I started my Rogue was 2015 that's wrong it is 2010. I talked to the mechanic and he told me there is no plate to replace and these axles just slide in no hammering required and these are factory axles no aftermarket parts.

Rogue Jarhead
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Car: 2011 Nissan Rogue Krom

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If it didn't shake before the new axles, then the most likely problem is the new axles. Usually when this happens it's because someone went to a major auto parts store and bought remanufactured of brand new cheap chinese axles. You have said that's not the case here. So unless the mechanic disturbed some other suspension front end component then it's the axles. You just got a bad one.

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zakmartin
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Make sure the axle nuts are torqued down to spec.

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centralcoaster33
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Okay, well I updated the title to mention a 2010 Rogue.

The FSM link I gave you is for a 2010 Rogue, so I got it right that time. On page 21 of the replacement procedure is has in Red "Caution" and in bold "Never reuse plate". It also says to use a protector for the oil seal while inserting the drive shaft into the transaxle and to tap with a hammer to install securely. That's on page 20. Perhaps your mechanic has a different book for instruction or thinks they know what they're doing 'because they've done it a million times on other cars'. I'd be frustrated with their direct contradiction to the Factory Service Manual which is practically the bible for your vehicle.

So, they are not following directions and that can cause problems. That would include using torque specs as mentioned by zakmartin, so I second that.

Rogue mentions cheap parts suck with transaxles and I agree after reading several testimonials from others who got the cheap stuff and had to have those replaced a second time due to rattle and poor fitment.

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darylzero
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If these are really genuine Nissan axles then the parts alone should cost over $800.

See if you can find any stickers or markings on the axles to make sure they are genuine.

Rogue Jarhead
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The plate centralcoaster is referring seems to be a carrier bearing. I looked at the fsm and I see that it says “replace, do not reuse”. A bad carrier bearing can definitely cause a vibration. So if that wasn’t replaced it’s probably a good idea to do so. I tend to agree with darylzero also if the parts were only a couple hundred each you have aftermarket axles nstalled.

Genuine Nissan axles are probably going to be $400 or more per side. You could check one of the online Nissan dealers parts section just to be sure.

There is nothing wrong with installing aftermarket axles just make sure they don’t have the “failure tomorrow “ tag. Which looks like this. “Made in China”

karpat
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Joined: Wed Feb 26, 2014 3:09 pm
Car: 2010 Rogue Basic
Location: Bridgewater Ma.

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I printed out the FSM highlighting the replace, do not reuse and a couple of other instructions I feel are important enough to bring to his attention. Thanks again for all the responses. It goes in Friday the 8th for replacement of axles and will post the results.

Rogue Jarhead
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There is a carrier bearing on the right side that would need replacing. I went to an online nissan dealer and a new axle is around $500 per side of course that would be a genuine nissan axle. They also sell the inner and outer joint themselves which are about $170 AND $225 respectively. That is what I would do, just rebuild the axle. Of course I do my own and would have the time to allow for such an exercise. Rarely do the axle shafts themselves go bad its usually the joints on one end or the other.

Putting new nissan ends on in my opinion is preferable to reman or aftermarket options.

I just reread your original post and it looks like you just needed new boots. Which are fairly cheap. I would have just rebooted which ever end needed it. Then you get to keep your original axles. As long as the outer joint isn't making noise when you're turning or the inner isn't vibrating on acceleration they are usually still good.

The reason the whole axle gets replaced is it's easier than doing a reboot. At least many garages feel that's the case.

Slumpert
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Car: 1997.4 Pathfinder

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possible mixed up on AWD axle vs standard axle, slight extra size difference might be putting a strain on all the parts causing issue. Even if he ordered the right thing, might have been wrong one in box.

amc49
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'17 Nissan Altima

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See if you can tell which side is shaking.

I went and looked at the service manual and even though Nissan says to do so I have seen troubles like that when the axles get hammered in past a certain amount of force. The axle is the tripod type and not holding it dead in parallel at hammering time will overload one leg of tripod to then possibly lock the bearing up or fracture it and I've seen it done more than once, the brand of the axle will have little to do with that. Should be easier to mess up the driver side as the clip is used there and harder to install as a result, the pass sides simply slip right in since the outer bearing mount holds them in place. I reuse those 'plates' at that point as well too if not deformed or other damage. A tripod has to have all 3 legs able to 'swash' freely and correct or it shakes.

It could be a bad axle not built to correct clearance specs to not freely swash too. Swashing being the in and out arc movement out of true with the other shaft that all CV axles have to do smoothly.

The true test of bad CV axles is to go into a quiet parking lot and then slowly drive the cars in circles with the steering turned to the limit one way and the other and then listen for the clicking. With moderate wear you will get some but OK as long as when you lessen the amount of the turn the clicking disappears quick. As the axle gets older the clicking will show more in a straighter direction and your indicator of when they need changing. You NEVER change axles just because they click at full steering limits, they can do that at 5K miles and still have 200K miles of life left yet. But shops will show customers that clicking all day long to get axle jobs for NOTHING.

I use $50 axles that work perfectly and all day long. I've rebuilt them as well.

karpat
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Joined: Wed Feb 26, 2014 3:09 pm
Car: 2010 Rogue Basic
Location: Bridgewater Ma.

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Well, another set of aftermarket new axles have been installed and the same shimmy at low speed (under 25 mph) still exists. I've talked with the mechanic extensively and he says there is no hammering involved in the installation of either the driver side or passenger side axle on my all wheel drive Rouge. One of the puzzling things it that it does not do it every time. My mechanic is as frustrated as I seeing he is eating the labor cost of this job. I've suggested that I bring it to an Authorized Nissan dealership and have them give me a written diagnosis of their solution to the shimmy. My biggest fear is a dishonest dealership that will just start guessing at my expense. I don't know if I can get them to sign an agreement stating that if their solution does not fix the problem I don't have to pay.

datechboss101
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My suggestion and my two cents: Call multiple dealers and have all of them look at the issue and give you a solution and price for OEM parts (dealers will compete with each other to give you the lowest price). You don't have to be committed to that specific dealer to do the job.

karpat
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Car: 2010 Rogue Basic
Location: Bridgewater Ma.

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brought the rouge to a Nissan dealership and they claim the shake is due to a bad universal joint at the rear of driveshaft assembly.It may be worn but I have my doubts that it would cause a shake with the symptoms I have. $1057+tax with no guarantee the shake will go away.

exzacklyrighty
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Joined: Thu Dec 14, 2017 9:49 am
Car: 2009 Nissan Rogue

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Known issue with EVERY Nissan rogue in the past 10 years and also probably other models. (Xterra, Altima, etc).

I've gone through 3 CV Axles in 6 months...

Just google or YouTube 'Nissan CVT Vibration'.

The dealerships deny it's even an issue.

Nissan Has Extended Their CVT Warranty Before
Citing complaints from a “small percentage of owners of early models equipped with CVTs,” Nissan extended their CVT warranty for certain vehicles. The extension essentially doubled previous coverage, bumping the powertrain warranty from 5 years/60,000 miles to 10 years/120,000 miles, whichever comes first.

This included:

2007-2010 Altima (Plus Altima Coupe and Altima Hybrid)
2007-2010 Maxima
2003-2007; 2009-2010 Murano
2008-2010 Rogue
2007-2010 Sentra
2007-2010 Versa (1.8SL)
Nissan also offered reimbursements on repairs, but that program ended on July 31, 2010.
The 2011 Versa, for example, has an average failure of 64,750 miles. The very popular 2013 Altima fails around 60,167 miles.


You can also look here for more problems: (mine's a 2009) https://www.carcomplaints.com/Nissan/Ro ... lure.shtml

Literally every year (even 2017 rogues) have the problem. The altima also: https://www.carcomplaints.com/Nissan/Al ... ghly.shtml

Probably never buying a Nissan again. I just added some suspension repair and new tires so I'll run my car until those run out and then so long.

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centralcoaster33
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exzacklyrighty wrote:
Thu Dec 14, 2017 10:08 am
Known issue with EVERY Nissan rogue in the past 10 years and also probably other models. (Xterra, Altima, etc).

I've gone through 3 CV Axles in 6 months...

Just google or YouTube 'Nissan CVT Vibration'.

The dealerships deny it's even an issue...
I wonder if it's because the installers don't follow the FSM instructions.

Why is there a charge for the driveshaft OP? Isn't this under warranty? Drive shafts can be pulled and inspected.

amc49
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'17 Nissan Altima

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It would be pretty off to have a rear driveshaft issue show up right at the changing of the axles but possible of course. One can generally drop a driveshaft pretty easy to check the wear on the joint out and maybe safely secure the vehicle and jack up BOTH sides of the rear to be able to neutral the driveshaft and then check it without pulling it at all. If loose it should move around in the wear play.

3 axles in 6 months says I would have been changing the mech or part supplier at 2. Unless abusing them any axle well made should run as long as the OEM ones did.

When they do AWD on non-dedicated models they tend to use some pretty spindly driveshafts and axles though. AWD drive is now often for people who want to claim it but they never really use it at all, similar to buying $50K+ trucks that never get used to their total worth and design, bragging rights only and the OEMs will try to capitalize on that by making cheaper implementations of that. I used to laugh at the utter waste of money there when I was in parts.

Whatever you do don't jump to Ford, they have turned new cars into parts buying opportunities now. WAY more issues with that other than just the vehicle axles and driveshafts, literally everything on them is now pre-designed to break on cue and it works for them. My last two Focus cars had broken several things by 50K miles each and over 50 each by the time they matured into old age. If I weren't able to fix most of them with minor or no parts at all then they would have bankrupted me. They have intentionally steered their product line in that direction for the last 20 years, as a longterm owner of several of their cars you can see how it progressed.

The modern automotive computer has made the cars run so long now they have to look for other ways of keeping the dealerships alive, in Ford's case it seems to be to make a lot of smaller parts break as nuisance items that stack up to make the owners cave in to a new car even though the old one still has 100K left in it if you fix the nuisance stuff. Those same Foci of mine that break so many small parts have engines/transmissions that can go over 300K miles, can't sell any cars THAT way......

Maybe Nissan is headed that way as well.

karpat
Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Feb 26, 2014 3:09 pm
Car: 2010 Rogue Basic
Location: Bridgewater Ma.

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I'm wondering if it is possible seeing the carrier bracket was not replaced during the axle replacement because the axle slid right out without a problem that my Rouge could possibly have a bad carrier bracket bearing. Without pulling the passenger side axle again is there any way to check it? At over $210 for this bracket and the labor charge for pulling the axle for the third time at this rate, I could buy another car. I'm still questioning why this problem never existed before the replacement of the 2 axles.

Inkaman
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2018 9:17 pm
Car: 2008 nissan rogue sl

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shake is due to a bad universal joint at the rear of driveshaft assembly.
I speak with nissan mechanic and he explained that vibration or oscillation of the engine causes by a bad universal joint at the rear of driveshaft assembly, but in my case it is different.

I have the same problem, but my rogue is not 4x4. changing the plate or support does not change anything. I still can not solve my problem. I put the original axles back after changing the boots and the problem remained the same.

Please let me know if you can fix your car.
Thank you.

Best regards.

ChanceyFab
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Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2022 4:25 pm
Car: 2012 Nissan Rogue SV
2006 Nissan Frontier SV

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Inkaman wrote:
Wed Feb 21, 2018 10:18 pm
shake is due to a bad universal joint at the rear of driveshaft assembly.
I speak with nissan mechanic and he explained that vibration or oscillation of the engine causes by a bad universal joint at the rear of driveshaft assembly, but in my case it is different.

I have the same problem, but my rogue is not 4x4. changing the plate or support does not change anything. I still can not solve my problem. I put the original axles back after changing the boots and the problem remained the same.

Please let me know if you can fix your car.
Thank you.

Best regards.

Same problem here as well with my 2012 Rogue that is fwd. Did anyone with a fwd ever get a fix for this issue? Please help it’s driving me nuts lol


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